Your battery voltage - truck off and at rest

[ShadowsPapa]

LOL - the tech doesn't know how that system works, obviously.
30 minutes isn't going to do squat to the AGM batteries. I charged for a couple of hours to get to 75% when mine were still at 40 some percent.
The sensor doesn't charge.

It doesn't take days - in fact, it can be ready to go in a day.
So if you start it and take it home, let it sit 2 to 4 hours, and start it again, it may be ready to go.

If that tech was up on things - he'd have read this in his training - (see my post above showing this same thing)

This is from my 2020's configuration file -

Battery:
___________________
IBS3 Battery Equivalent Capacity (9000-405000): 405000.000 %
IBS Quiescence Current Limit (-250-0 mA): -250.000 mA
IBS Minimum Voltage Limit (0-25.4 V): 10.000 V
IBS3 Charge Current Limit (0-2500 mA): 2500.000 mA
IBS3 Battery Parameterization Kind- Battery Mode: Use Battery Type
IBS3 Vehicle Battery Type (0-63): 22.000
IBS3 Minimum Charge Limit (0-100%): 35.000 %

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[Andy29847]

I'm finding other sources that say 5 days. Is this for older Jeep?

"4/2020 Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) - Operation (Battery Control Module) - ALLDATA Repair https://my.alldata.com/repair/#/rep...ype/392/nonstandard/1491386/selfRefLink/false 1/2 2014 Jeep Truck Cherokee 2WD L4-2.4L Vehicle > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Control Module > Description and Operation > Components INTELLIGENT BATTERY SENSOR (IBS) - When IBS is disconnected from the battery, the device loses its stored memory. When power is restored, the IBS starts a relearn process. Until the relearn process is complete, accurate battery state information is unavailable to other vehicle systems. The IBS relearn process requires five normal, operator initiated starts with at least eight hours of engine off time between each start. Usually, the process takes a few days of vehicle operation to complete. Remember, the relearn process is restarted every time power is reconnected to the IBS. This has a major effect on the stop/start feature."

 

[Andy29847]

Here is what I have recorded for the week:


10/24 - car in for service, stop/start not working

IBS replaced on 10/25 - car in shop until 10/27 for other work

I picked up car on 10/27, Stop/Start did not work on the way home - display charging volts = 14.2

Driveway testing on morning of 10/28 – 54°

display volts w/switch on acc – 12.1

batteries in parallel measures with multimeter – 12.24

main battery measured with multimeter – 12.26

aux battery measured with multimeter – 12.32

display voltage when cranked – 14.5

batteries in parallel measured with meter when cranked – 14.57

 

[Andy29847]

LOL - the tech doesn't know how that system works, obviously.

I think you got that one right. I returned to the dealer this morning. They worked a little and then went for a test drive. The stop/start still wasn't working. They worked some more and after 4 hours they returned my Jeep. All systems were working. I left in a hurry but later called the service manager to find out what they did. the service manager said that they had to charge the batteries through the IBS sensor. At least it was all warranty work. Only thing is that the skelton crew they work on Saturday did NOT include somebody to bring in doughnuts.

 

[Andy29847]

HAHAHAHA - one day later and not working again. Maybe this is a blessing.

 

[Rockabillyroy]

I ordered the odyssey 94r online. With the new battery, my auto stop start works again. Ours probably been over a year since it last worked. Haha

Anyways, i did not have to return my battery for a core fee.

The factory battery sits at 12.4. Is it worth putting that 50lb paperweight inside one of those solar charged portable battery boxes?

https://smile.amazon.com/Maxi-Trac-Battery-Camping-Fishing/dp/B0BDGGN3R5/

 

[Mr._Bill]

I ordered the odyssey 94r online. With the new battery, my auto stop start works again. Ours probably been over a year since it last worked. Haha

Anyways, i did not have to return my battery for a core fee.

The factory battery sits at 12.4. Is it worth putting that 50lb paperweight inside one of those solar charged portable battery boxes?

https://smile.amazon.com/Maxi-Trac-Battery-Camping-Fishing/dp/B0BDGGN3R5/

If you have a use for the battery box, I would try it. Worst case, you end up buying a better battery for the box. I replaced just the main battery, and everything is working as it should now. I didn't have to return the old battery, so I'm looking for a way to use it. It's not well enough to run the truck, but it's not dead yet.

 

[Andy29847]

Back to the dealer for the 3rd time. Stop/Start and Remote Start not working. The first 2 times, my Jeep was OK for one day. I let them have the Jeep for a week while I was on a trip. They changed the main battery. Seems to be OK now. Glad to be spending warranty money.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

This was a fun spool of information.
I read through all 19 pages, however didn’t read anything conclusive.

Seems as if the remedy is to replace both batteries? Or to run with a tender??

For hooking up a tender or charging while batteries are still in the jeep- has anyone snapped a few photos… I want to ensure I understand visually how not to blind charge.


For replacement options- looks like the couple that were successful with warranty and the dealers just had new factory batteries put in. I’m considering odyssey’s… any cons?

I hear there are issues with the diesels and the genesis dual battery setup?? Anyone have a link to more information?


for data- I have a build date 2/22 JTRD and for the past couple weeks regularly see 12-12.2 v on the dash every morning ….Start stop doesn’t seem to have any issues after oil/coolant is at temp. Voltage jumps to 14v when running around after starting

 

[Mr._Bill]

This was a fun spool of information.
I read through all 19 pages, however didn’t read anything conclusive.

Seems as if the remedy is to replace both batteries? Or to run with a tender??

For hooking up a tender or charging while batteries are still in the jeep- has anyone snapped a few photos… I want to ensure I understand visually how not to blind charge.


For replacement options- looks like the couple that were successful with warranty and the dealers just had new factory batteries put in. I’m considering odyssey’s… any cons?

I hear there are issues with the diesels and the genesis dual battery setup?? Anyone have a link to more information?


for data- I have a build date 2/22 JTRD and for the past couple weeks regularly see 12-12.2 v on the dash every morning ….Start stop doesn’t seem to have any issues after oil/coolant is at temp. Voltage jumps to 14v when running around after starting

The remedy depends on your situation and issues. Voltage drop in the cold is normal. At barely a year old, you should not be having battery problems, but that is affected by environment, driving habits, and the quality of the original batteries.

When charging, or using a battery maintainer, connect to the nuts on the top of the terminals that the cables connect to, not directly to the battery posts or terminal nuts. One connection to the top of the main battery will charge both batteries.

I have not looked at the diesel version of the Genesis kit. What I have read is that it is not well implemented. The problem is there is just not room under the hood for a dual battery system like the gas version.

If the original batteries fail during the 3/36 warranty, they are covered and will be replaced. I was hoping for free batteries, but mine outlasted the warranty by about three months. Replacing the batteries outside warranty just depends on how much you are willing to spend. On my gas Overland, I put in a ACDelco 94R that I got from Amazon. Better quality (hopefully) and higher CCA rating than the original. I paid $159 for it in September.
ACDelco Gold 94RAGM 36 Month Warranty AGM BCI Group 94R Battery https://a.co/d/16o66gE

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I did a bit of experimenting - not a lot, but confirmed that the voltage seen in the cluster during an ESS stop event is the aux battery voltage and it's bloody accurate. At least in mine. If it says 12.4 during a stop, my Fluke reads 12.40 to 12.45 volts.
It's colder weather here now - and I've noticed that the truck, when running, stays up in the mid to upper 14s and even 15.0 at times.
During an ESS stop - if the seat and wheel heat is on, the voltage drops down to about 12.2, maybe 12.1, after a minute. With those off and the HVAC on low, the voltage stays up to 12.3 or so for a minute. It drops a LOT slower with those heavy power loads turned off.
Voltage after sitting a day on this truck is 12.5
It's interesting to watch the voltages running and then after it sits a few hours as it almost appears (too early to know for sure) that they've upped the charging voltage on these later trucks.
I never saw over about 14.6 or 14.7 on my 2020. This one is routinely over that.
But - is that related to it being a 2022 - or, the fact this one has the factory aux switches? The factory aux switches get the larger crank battery than those ordered without the aux switches.

 

[Gatorized]

I did a bit of experimenting - not a lot, but confirmed that the voltage seen in the cluster during an ESS stop event is the aux battery voltage and it's bloody accurate. At least in mine. If it says 12.4 during a stop, my Fluke reads 12.40 to 12.45 volts.
It's colder weather here now - and I've noticed that the truck, when running, stays up in the mid to upper 14s and even 15.0 at times.
During an ESS stop - if the seat and wheel heat is on, the voltage drops down to about 12.2, maybe 12.1, after a minute. With those off and the HVAC on low, the voltage stays up to 12.3 or so for a minute. It drops a LOT slower with those heavy power loads turned off.
Voltage after sitting a day on this truck is 12.5
It's interesting to watch the voltages running and then after it sits a few hours as it almost appears (too early to know for sure) that they've upped the charging voltage on these later trucks.
I never saw over about 14.6 or 14.7 on my 2020. This one is routinely over that.
But - is that related to it being a 2022 - or, the fact this one has the factory aux switches? The factory aux switches get the larger crank battery than those ordered without the aux switches.

I was just noticing this myself while monitoring the battery voltage during start/stop… goes from 13-14+ when engine running to stepping down to 12.2 - 12.3 when ESS kicks in. Drops a bit further when the engine cranks, but only momentarily as the charging kicks back in when the engine starts.
I’ve got 3 full years on my batteries and both still seem to be holding up well… 35k miles and the JT sits for several days (garaged) between drives and ESS usually is active as soon as the engine is warm. There have been occasions when the ESS was not functioning for ~30-40 minutes - just long enough to call attention to it, but short enough to not really be a concern because it started working again! I wish I had been more aware at the time and put up the ESS on the screen to see what it was citing as the reason.

 

[Andy29847]

I did a bit of experimenting - not a lot, but confirmed that the voltage seen in the cluster during an ESS stop event is the aux battery voltage and it's bloody accurate. At least in mine. If it says 12.4 during a stop, my Fluke reads 12.40 to 12.45 volts.

This is gotta be coincidental. The truck voltmeter is giving volts under load. The only way to measure the aux battery is to isolate it from the truck (no load).

I have 2 2020 Jeeps, my gladiator and a Wrangler. Lately, as I drive either one, I'm noting the amount of time before the stop/start is ready. Generally, it's 3 or 4 miles on the Wrangler, 2 miles on the Gladiator.

 

[BearFootSam]

Working through some RV battery issues gave me a thought - In all likelihood the batteries as installed at the factory are not at full charge. Most (battery) manufacturers recommend a full charge prior to putting a new battery into service. With the various parasitic loads as the truck winds its way from the plant to your hand the SoC is likely falling all the while. If you do not engage in long distance driving early during ownership, sufficient to get the battery to full SoC you may end up over discharging and damaging the battery. Such a damaged battery may function for some time albeit at reduced capacity. The service life however will be far less than had the battery been properly charged full.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

This is gotta be coincidental. The truck voltmeter is giving volts under load. The only way to measure the aux battery is to isolate it from the truck (no load).

I have 2 2020 Jeeps, my gladiator and a Wrangler. Lately, as I drive either one, I'm noting the amount of time before the stop/start is ready. Generally, it's 3 or 4 miles on the Wrangler, 2 miles on the Gladiator.

Coincidental? What part of what I said?
No, I know what I'm doing and measuring.........
I know how these operate (besides being an automotive electrician)
and during an ESS stop event, the batteries are isolated. Note - that's when I said I measured the voltage with my fluke.

First - the truck's volt meter is measuring system voltage - not battery voltage, when the truck is running. It's measuring regardless of load or no load. There's going to be a load on these at all times because of the parasitic draws when it's shut off. There's going to be a load on these during ESS stop events because the aux battery supplies the electrical system at that time.
My next thing will be to run a second line - this time from the crank battery to the cabin, and use another meter to measure the crank battery voltage during an ESS stop event. It should, if it's fully charged, sit about 12.8 the entire time- because there will be ZERO draw or load on the crank battery during an ESS stop.

When it's in the middle of an ESS stop event, it's measuring the system voltage while the crank battery is disconnected or isolated from the rest of the system.
So my readings make total sense and prove that it is indeed measuring the voltage as available from the aux battery. Frankly, we needed no proof of that because the fact the voltage drops fairly quickly during a stop is proof enough.

I was just noticing this myself while monitoring the battery voltage during start/stop… goes from 13-14+ when engine running to stepping down to 12.2 - 12.3 when ESS kicks in. Drops a bit further when the engine cranks, but only momentarily as the charging kicks back in when the engine starts.

Sounds perfectly normal. During the restart, the batteries are again connected and the fact you are cranking the engine will drop voltage, then when it starts, the system again uses stored historical battery data and current conditions to adjust the output from the alternator.

Like I said earlier, these measure "system voltage" more than battery voltage.

Batteries are connected and in parallel when the truck is shut off in your garage, so it's seeing the voltage of the parallel array supplying the truck's systems during a big button power off.

Batteries are connected in parallel when the truck is running after a big button start but the alternator is now supplying the "voltage" seen - it's measuring not the batteries supplying the truck, but the entire system voltage as a result of alternator output.

I had my fluke connected to the aux battery yesterday.
That means it was measuring system voltage exactly as the truck measures it - exactly the same (save for possible minute differences due to wire sizes, miniscule voltage drop across connections, etc.) so it makes perfect sense my fluke showed what the cluster showed for voltage.
Then during an ESS stop event, my fluke still showed what the cluster showed because the cluster shows the voltage based on the AUX battery only, under load from the electrical system. That's because during ESS stops, the crank battery is disconnected from the vehicle's electric system by the PCR.

My ESS is ready after about 1 mile in warmer weather, about 1.5-2 miles in the 40 degree temps. Makes sense as the CATs and engine must warm up and that takes longer when it's colder out.

I'm heading out soon to measure the voltage with the truck off and at rest after having driven it a lot lately - but I'm expecting better numbers with this 2022 than I did my 2020.
I am also going to deal with my wife's Jeep since it's been sitting a lot and I'm sure the batteries are down to at least 12.4 or lower from the sitting - so I'll likely put my charger on it so when she drives it tomorrow, everything will be up to snuff.

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