I know that the spec weight is 4500lbs, but that’s the answer I was looking for. The remaining gearing after the “crawl” 1st and how it would do. I haven’t driven the manual yet and wasn’t sure how much on the spread in ration between gears. Just got most of the max tow items that matter on a rubicon with a tow package.
3rd is super long, and would theoretically top out at 101 mph, but the speed limiter caps the Rubicon and Mojave to 97. Second ends at 58 on stock tires if you were to redline it. This is assuming Rubicon/Mojave axle ratios. Those speeds are higher on the other models.
I could see that. I had considered downsizing from my Cummins, but I guess I’ll just reconsider the options list more orientated to what I want and keep the Cummins for towing. Thank you!
I added the ratios above, if you're curious. Also, I corrected the top speeds per gear, because the stock tire size is 32.8 inches, I was thinking it was 31.9. That made the speeds even worse!
2.63 to 1.53 that’s a serious jump. 1:1 in 4th and 5/6 are overdrives. That’s not towing friendly gearing, fuel saving for sure though.
I'll just toss my $0.02. I have a Sport S with max tow. I helped a friend get his 24' 6100# travel trailer home after his truck's rear blew on the way to the campground. Used my old Equalizer 4P WDH, got everything level and hit the road. It was....well, it towed it. But it wasn't what I consider a pleasant experience. At all. It didn't sway, but you could definitely tell that trailer was on the verge of driving the truck. Side wind had a lot of influence on the tracking of the truck. I kept speeds at 55 max. In my opinion the stock rear suspension is severely under-suspended in the name of comfort with a paper thin rear sway bar. Just too much bounce and wiggle, needs air bags and a beefier sway bar.
exactly where my thought went after the first response. I know it could, but should it be done. Plus I work on the road so my camper is job to job with me. Need to hook and go almost anywhere at any moment notice.
Yes, the manual gearing is definitely for gas mileage on the JT and JL. I'm sure it's why, at least on paper, the manual gets better highway mileage despite having two fewer gears. Everything is a tradeoff these days, and they decided to focus on mpgs for 3rd and up, knowing that's where you'll be most of the time, and that it would help EPA highway economy. 1 and 2 are nice and low. And good for crawling, wheeling, and accelerating from a stop. 3rd and above are for fuel efficiency.
For a 6000# travel trailer I'd go half ton and call it a day. You'll just have a much better experience, in my opinion. I've been yanking travel trailers all over the US for 10 years now. For my own sanity I've come to the conclusion that it's way better to have way more truck than you need when it comes to travel trailers.
I just bought a max tow on a Sport, sticker lists standard equipment, and shows 3.73 axels, but in the optional equipment it states 4.10, max tow, heavy Dana 44 axels, my question is outside of the fender flare what can I look at on my truck to confirm beyond a shadow of a doubt that I have Max Tow?
Why bother? You have the paper/window sticker that states clearly max tow. If it states 4.10 ratio and max tow - why question it? It's max tow.
I'd just trust that the window sticker is accurate.... but easiest thing to check would just be your door jamb sticker that shows the GVWR and max occupant/cargo weight.
Isn't that like suggesting something is in the book?
To be honest, with out being a mech and being able to check the alternator, the only visual is the little extra strip on the fenders.
Or the door decal or the window sticker or the build sheet - all visuals.
