Max Tow Package

[sharpsicle]

Or the door decal or the window sticker or the build sheet - all visuals.
Not sure I'd relay on the alternator output as the tell.

Yeah not sure what the alternator has to do with it...nothing unique about it.

The window sticker is of course the first resource. Curious why that's not trustworthy enough?

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[Gvsukids]

Or the door decal or the window sticker or the build sheet - all visuals.
Not sure I'd relay on the alternator output as the tell.

Maybe they mixed up the window sticker with another one. The research led to an old thread with lots of information, but just not enough.

 

[joybulb]

Isn't that like suggesting something is in the book?
People actually look at that sticker?

I did look at that but it only gives GWVR and axel ratings, I was hoping for GCWR, but that’s too much to ask

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I did look at that but it only gives GWVR and axel ratings, I was hoping for GCWR, but that’s too much to ask

Cargo rating? Sorry, no. The best you can get is on the tire information decal which shows load information. But that's "best case, UNMODIFIED vehicle".
That's because if you weigh 300 pounds, and put power steps on and a winch, you have to take that as payload. You subtract the current weight of the vehicle from the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) and that's how much you have left to haul.

There is actually a sticker that DOES tell you FACTORY payload rating, for YOUR truck.
Payload is you, a friend, a dog, air compressor and/or tools, winch, trailer tongue weight, cooler and beer and so on -
Look at your TIRE AND LOADING INFORMATION sticker. It says very very plainly, can't get any more clear than this -

But remember, that GVWR is GOD.
If you add to the weight of the truck with rails, bumpers, winches, air compressor, tow straps, or the tongue of a trailer - that number goes DOWN because anything you put in or on that truck after it's built takes AWAY from payload.
If you tow and the tongue weight of your trailer is 600 pounds, THAT is payload and comes right off the top of the payload number

Again - no one looks at the stickers?

So the most useful bit is the GVWR which is the GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT RATING.

(and you and your dog are cargo)

No matter how FCA/Jeep advertises max tow, you will likely not see that advertised "best of class" payload because every option comes away from that. If the payload were advertised on TV or the internet as 1750 - laugh, because it's very likely your sticker will say less than that. Rare is the sticker that shows full marketed payload numbers.

 

[Murgatroid]

Or the door decal or the window sticker or the build sheet - all visuals.
Not sure I'd relay on the alternator output as the tell.

Visuals if you have a sticker, but just looking at a Gladiator in a parking lot, there are no tells other than the flair.

 

[JRobes]

Visuals if you have a sticker, but just looking at a Gladiator in a parking lot, there are no tells other than the flair.

I can go check a random JTs VIN in a lot (VIN tag on the front window frame, driver's side, visible from outside the vehicle), look it up using that vin lookup website, and immediately know if it has max tow.

Otherwise, yeah, the only "tell" I'm aware of is the lip on the fenders which are required to cover the wide track axle/wheel setup

 

[joybulb]

I appreciate the replies, I’m aware of gvwr etc, been towing a few years, with a 5k capacity pathfinder and stepped up the to the max tow gladiator. Stickers and vin all say max tow, I’m sure it’s right, but I like to put eyes on hardware. I guess I’ll just have to trust it.

 

[JRobes]

Unfortunately, hardware-wise, the only way you'd know is to check the fenders for the lip, measure the width of the axle/wheel setup to verify wide track axles, or crack open one of the diffs and try to verify the 4.10 gears (maybe a second option here is to use a programmer to see what your truck is set at for axle gear ratios? The only versions of the sport/sport s that get 4.10 gears is one with the max tow package). I believe everything else is hardware that can come on the truck via other various options.

In my earlier post for door stickers, I could have been a bit more clear; if your weight allowance jamb sticker lists a combined allowed weight in the 1500-1600 lbs range, that would indicate you have the higher capacity suspension of the max tow package. If you look at ShadowsPapa's sticker above, you see his is at 1050 lbs which is considerably less (indicating non-max tow).

 

[joybulb]

In my earlier post for door stickers, I could have been a bit more clear; if your weight allowance jamb sticker lists a combined allowed weight in the 1500-1600 lbs range, that would indicate you have the higher capacity suspension of the max tow package. If you look at ShadowsPapa's sticker above, you see his is at 1050 lbs which is considerably less (indicating non-max tow).

right, all good points, thanks for the insight. I did notice his cargo capacity being about 424 lbs below mine.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I get it. I'm a very very visual person myself. I see it, I get it, I understand and can figure it out. Don't make me read a book about it, put it on my bench and I'll have it going in short order.
But - the Jeep is a different animal and sometimes things lie.
The VIN, the window sticker, the build sheet (which I gave you a link to earlier) don't lie.

Can you go by the fender flares?
No. if I wanted deeper wheels or wider tires and didn't like the poke due to rock chips and side damage, in an hour (maybe??) I could have max tow fender flares put on my Overland. Now tell me by looking.
I had considered putting max tow axles under my Overland just to gain the width for my towing - I was pretty serious until I saw the cost and all that was involved, including swapping out the fenders.....
Someone could take a Sport and swap fender flares in very short order.

Alternator? Nope. Yeah, max tow gets the larger capacity fans and higher output alternator, but so do other models. My Overland has the 240 amp alternator and higher draw fans.
Forum members - at least 2 of them, have put the 240 amp alternators and higher capacity fans on their JTs. It's pretty easy, swap the fan, alternator and depending on your truck, the high current fuse array. Bingo - you have the same fan and alternator as max tow or others.

Jeeps are made of Legos. Parts swapping happens all the time. Fender flares? Fairly easy to come by because some swap out to after-market fenders for radical clearance and then turn around and sell their stock parts. You'll find axle assemblies, fender flares, alternators, fans, pretty much anything, for sale here or on eBay and other places.

For me it's refreshing to have a vehicle that I can get almost anything for compared to my cars for which some parts simply do not exist at any price.

Anyway - if you KNOW the prior owner didn't do any swapping, you can look and tell by the fender flares like has been said over and over by those who know. But you have to trust the PO didn't spend a few minutes swapping those out - and minutes is about all it takes for the most part.

(Trust but verify??)

You've got max tow.
Congratulations.
They are pretty capable little trucks and there's no end to the fun.

 

[Ogre_FL]

Where is the extra width, overall or is there a wider part(s)?
Can you crawl under and throw a tape measure on the axel(s)?

 

[BearFootSam]

I'll just toss my $0.02. I have a Sport S with max tow. I helped a friend get his 24' 6100# travel trailer home after his truck's rear blew on the way to the campground. Used my old Equalizer 4P WDH, got everything level and hit the road. It was....well, it towed it. But it wasn't what I consider a pleasant experience. At all. It didn't sway, but you could definitely tell that trailer was on the verge of driving the truck. Side wind had a lot of influence on the tracking of the truck. I kept speeds at 55 max. In my opinion the stock rear suspension is severely under-suspended in the name of comfort with a paper thin rear sway bar. Just too much bounce and wiggle, needs air bags and a beefier sway bar.

Now, if I was towing a car trailer with a car at around 6000-7000 lbs it would probably pull it just fine. But I'd still want bags and a better sway bar.

Last November I drove across the country in my Rubicon with a fairly loaded bed while pulling what was about 1800lb trailer. Not a lot of weight by the specs but crossing South Dakota with 50mph cross wind gusts and passing double and triple trailer semi's separated by only a double yellow line was harrowing. It was all stability, the abrupt on-off-on cross wind effect when a truck passed would whip me around the lane. Very stressful driving.

Power and gearing were never an issue, no trouble in the mountains of WY, MT, ID, WA. I contribute the lane holding issues to high clearance and geometry changes from the rearward weight bias. I'd be really curious if airbags would make a difference. And btw, the soft-top was loud as all heck banging around in the truck buffeting.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Last November I drove across the country in my Rubicon with a fairly loaded bed while pulling what was about 1800lb trailer. Not a lot of weight by the specs but crossing South Dakota with 50mph cross wind gusts and passing double and triple trailer semi's separated by only a double yellow line was harrowing. It was all stability, the abrupt on-off-on cross wind effect when a truck passed would whip me around the lane. Very stressful driving.

Power and gearing were never an issue, no trouble in the mountains of WY, MT, ID, WA. I contribute the lane holding issues to high clearance and geometry changes from the rearward weight bias. I'd be really curious if airbags would make a difference. And btw, the soft-top was loud as all heck banging around in the truck buffeting.

Long flat surfaces impacted by other long flat surfaces - and the wake made by other vehicles.
A passing semi will blow you one direction then as it's going by, pull you back and finally, you go the other direction again if there's a good wind that day.
The air has to speed up to go between, causing low pressure then you hit the wake, blowing you away.

That's just one reason the true experts say - you lose towing ability with a lift. You shift the center of gravity so you impact steering, braking, handling, especially in emergencies.

Where is the extra width, overall or is there a wider part(s)?
Can you crawl under and throw a tape measure on the axel(s)?

Axle tubes and axle shafts.
Sure you could - but why? Plug in the VIN online.
It's 0.75" per side for a total of 1.5" extra width over stock Sport or Overland. (same width as Rubicon, Mojave, High Altitude, etc. )

 

[joybulb]

Long flat surfaces impacted by other long flat surfaces - and the wake made by other vehicles.
A passing semi will blow you one direction then as it's going by, pull you back and finally, you go the other direction again if there's a good wind that day.
The air has to speed up to go between, causing low pressure then you hit the wake, blowing you away.

That's just one reason the true experts say - you lose towing ability with a lift. You shift the center of gravity so you impact steering, braking, handling, especially in emergencies.



Axle tubes and axle shafts.
Sure you could - but why? Plug in the VIN online.
It's 0.75" per side for a total of 1.5" extra width over stock Sport or Overland. (same width as Rubicon, Mojave, High Altitude, etc. )

There’s a lot of good info in these comments. Now I’m over here wondering if I want to go with bigger tires, if maybe that’s not a great idea. Reading through the article about the jeep engineer who talks about the challenges of reaching best in class towing on the gladiator. Part of the way they reached max towing was by being very deliberate on the tire size they chose. Anyone have insight on this topic?

 

[Hootbro]

Where is the extra width, overall or is there a wider part(s)?

Axle, Tie Rod Arm and Drag Link Arm are all wider on a Max Tow

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