What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[JoeInOh]

Completed my DIY bedliner from Monstaliner. They have 67 colors, I went with WWII OD Green to contrast with my Gobi. I think it turned out great.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Got the tail gate ladder installed on the new truck.
They come with self-drilling sheet metal screws to secure the plate to the tail gate. That's what I did the first time, just like the directions- but this time I opted for some lower profile head screws (button head screws) and M5 rivnuts. Took more time and patience as you have to mark the holes and drill carefully with a stop on the bit in case it grabs, recess the bed liner for the flange of the rivnut and things have to line up perfectly, got 'er done.
With the strength of the screws and rivnuts, and the plate, you don't need too many screws. I think the instructions recommend 6, can't recall for sure. I figured 5 was good with this method.

Pull 2 pins and the ladder comes off. I figured with these m5 screws and rivnuts if I had to take the whole plate off, it would be pretty easy. (like access to the latch handle and rods, or for hauling rock or whatever)

Here's a rivnut visible through the ladder plate's hole -

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Stumbled upon your post, and I know it probably doesn’t help much, but I ordered from a local dealer and got it in 2 weeks. I haggled on the price and got a decent deal (just ordered a 23 JLU in Earl from them).

Don't feel like paying dealer list prices for a bumper - most of the time used ones can be found in other states for a fraction of the new prices - with the bed sliders.

You don't haggle with Iowa dealers - when they look in their book and see a number, that's the price you pay. It's a piss-poor state to buy Jeep stuff at anything less than retail or MSRP. Actually, it's a piss-poor state to find Jeep stuff in at all!

 

[Trauma PA]

I have one and it has worked great so far. I've used it a handful of times and had no issues.

Here is what my X-bull clutch looks like. Started corroding after owning only a couple of months. I’d seriously spend a little more money on a reputable name brand winch.

 

[MikeyK]

Don't feel like paying dealer list prices for a bumper - most of the time used ones can be found in other states for a fraction of the new prices - with the bed sliders.

You don't haggle with Iowa dealers - when they look in their book and see a number, that's the price you pay. It's a piss-poor state to buy Jeep stuff at anything less than retail or MSRP. Actually, it's a piss-poor state to find Jeep stuff in at all!

That’s true with most dealers in PA too! But I took his best offer (I was a little impatient). He gave me a reasonable price, because he knows I’ll probably be back for a few items for the new JLU. ?

 

[Wilsonb80]

Finally got my switch pack operating and arb dual compressor mounted and working.

 

[Lynn_F]

Here is what my X-bull clutch looks like. Started corroding after owning only a couple of months. I’d seriously spend a little more money on a reputable name brand winch.

Mine after a year...no issues. Its a crap shoot, I guess I got lucky.

 

[Labswine]

Here is what my X-bull clutch looks like. Started corroding after owning only a couple of months. I’d seriously spend a little more money on a reputable name brand winch.

If it's still made, I highly recommend TurtleWax Chrome polish. It will actually reduce the rust back to base metal and put a good coating of wax on it to prevent from happening again. Just reapply every now and again. (Yes, reduce the metal because rust is oxidation. Reduction is the opposite of oxidation so )

I've used the stuff for years to keep the shiny bits on my motorcycles shiny. They get a few rust pits on them, hit them with this stuff and they're all shiny again and you don't see the rust pits.

Also, I use it on my swimming pool rails (the ones for the stairs into the pool) as they get a bit rusty looking in the spring when I open the pool. Just rub it on with cloth, let it dry then buff. Nice and chromey shiny for the summer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Here is what my X-bull clutch looks like. Started corroding after owning only a couple of months. I’d seriously spend a little more money on a reputable name brand winch.

I can work that lever in with some other plating I have to get done - either in nickel, or zinc - your choice of clean, yellow or black (which is more of a chocolate than true black)

I had my winch on my 2020 for 2 years give or take, not a trace of rust or oxidation on anything other than the big copper straps under the cover. That was easily resolved - clean, and clear coat 'em. Since the majority of the copper was like brand new, I have to wonder if their protection simply didn't get nicked or compromised and it could have been me that did it when I put the winch on for all I know. But the outside of the winch literally looks like brand new.
If any screws do eventually rust (I expect it from those that sit in recesses on the top where water sits) I will either plate them, or replace them with stainless.

If it's still made, I highly recommend TurtleWax Chrome polish. It will actually reduce the rust back to base metal and put a good coating of wax on it to prevent from happening again. Just reapply every now and again. (Yes, reduce the metal because rust is oxidation. Reduction is the opposite of oxidation so )

I've used the stuff for years to keep the shiny bits on my motorcycles shiny. They get a few rust pits on them, hit them with this stuff and they're all shiny again and you don't see the rust pits.

In order for it to convert the rust, it must have tannin likely in the form of tannic acid.
Tannic acid reacts with the iron ions to form ferric tannate (or iron tannate), an inert compound that binds strongly to the iron and blocks air contact with the iron below.
That's not reduction, it's conversion. Extend is one product that converts the rust to an inert material and then you have to protect it as water will compromise the conversion process.

True reversal is an electro-chemical process.
I have some pages written up on that on the web. Electrolysis. Iron/steel electrodes, a battery charger, a bucket of water and laundry soda (sodium carbonate, not sodium bicarbonate)

I've used both in restorations for years.
For plating, I use electrolysis to actually reverse the rust, full removal.
You can't use a converter as the converted later blocks the metal you want to plate with from binding.


That lever would drive me NUTS! No way I could leave that on there. I'd actually drop almost everything else and move that to the head of my project list!
I even found really teeny areas with some surface rust on my tail gate ladder where the powder coating couldn't get in back of the edge of the welds - and I stopped everything, used Extend to treat the rust, and painted the spots with Eastwood textured paint (a PERFECT match for the original finish)
No way could anything with even a trace of rust no one else would ever see was going onto that truck.

 

[Markpod7]

Smoked a brisket and installed a 2.5" Clayton Overland lift on a buddy's Jeep. (sting grey)

Nice! You have a link for that lift and what size tires??

 

[Willys2Gladiator]

Air bag lines all done, MOPAR trailer brake controller installed, started putting tail gate ladder on but needed to mod one area to clear my tonneau cover latches I put on. I didn't think ahead and move the left latch a bit forward to clear the ladder so will mod the ladder instead.
Also thinking of using different screws to attach it to the tail gate - maybe rivnuts and bolts - can use fewer of them.+

Any pointers for the brake controller install. Doing mine soon.

 

[JTenn]

Got the tail gate ladder installed on the new truck.
They come with self-drilling sheet metal screws to secure the plate to the tail gate. That's what I did the first time, just like the directions- but this time I opted for some lower profile head screws (button head screws) and M5 rivnuts. Took more time and patience as you have to mark the holes and drill carefully with a stop on the bit in case it grabs, recess the bed liner for the flange of the rivnut and things have to line up perfectly, got 'er done.
With the strength of the screws and rivnuts, and the plate, you don't need too many screws. I think the instructions recommend 6, can't recall for sure. I figured 5 was good with this method.

Pull 2 pins and the ladder comes off. I figured with these m5 screws and rivnuts if I had to take the whole plate off, it would be pretty easy. (like access to the latch handle and rods, or for hauling rock or whatever)

Here's a rivnut visible through the ladder plate's hole -

Nice! I haven't seen that ladder before. This was my solution for bed access. Folds up and lays flat for transport when needed. It's also made in 2 and 3 step versions.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Nice! I haven't seen that ladder before. This was my solution for bed access. Folds up and lays flat for transport when needed. It's also made in 2 and 3 step versions.

I have that version in my shop and a much older version a bit smaller. Love it because it's like stair steps, really strong, and I can lift things down from my high shelves and not feel like I'm balancing on something shaky in the process. Has a nice safety handle, wheels on one side and if that's like mine, a sort of platform on top of the handle for tools or whatever. Very well made.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Any pointers for the brake controller install. Doing mine soon.

Take 5 minutes to remove the driver seat - or at least set in in the back seat foot well.
4 bolts, E-torx (maybe an E6)
Slide the seat clear back, take out the front two bolts, slide it clear forward and take out the two rear, then lift and pull back. There's a wire/cable going to the seat if there's heated seats, really easy to disconnect at the seat bottom if it won't move far enough back for you.
Man, that gives a lot more room to lay down there and see things. Don't know why I didn't do that when I installed it on my 2020.
I did take the seat loose and lifted it back when removing the controller from my 2020, and then did it on the 2022 when I installed the controller on it.
Install the knob in the dash first, run the wire over to the left side where the controller box will be.
Make the connections to the controller, then install the controller. It's a lot easier to connect thing when you have that controller box with bracket in your hand looking at it (ask me how I figured that out LOL)
IMO, placing the controller itself in place and installing the two nuts should be the last part - then strap the wires in place.
It's not too bad if done in that order - and with the seat taken loose.

 

[TTU03]

Added take off led drl lights. Lights were free from a local gladiator that got a fender chop.

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