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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

BlueScapegoat

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Looks good. Someone just told me that the longer LCAs aren’t necessary and pull it outta spec for caster. I’m so confused.
You and me both
I’m certainly no wrench turner, however when I researched this issue, it seemed that for a 1.5” lift the lower control arms are not necessary. I also found that many experienced suspension people say the JTRs have limited caster from the factory and the MOPAR Performance lower control arms add some caster as the vehicle is minimally raised. Like I said, I’m pleased with the end result. I wish I was still physically able to do the installation myself.
All that jives. At 1.5" you shouldn't need longer lower arms. If it drives fine and feels good that's all that really matters. If it feels like it wanders a bit too much or you get a bit of wheel wobble when hitting bumps it might be worth trying the lower arms.

Jeeps vary a lot from the factory in terms of caster angle, and even caster differences from left to right knuckle. Given it's a CV style front driveshaft, and if you have the part time case the front driveshaft isn't spinning in 2wd thanks to the CAD, it's much less important to find a good tradeoff between caster and pinion angle in the front than it used to be on Jeeps with shorter arms with u-joints on both ends and an always spinning shaft. It usually doesn't hurt to go a bit heavy on caster at lower lift heights if you so chose.
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Klicht87

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Looks good. Someone just told me that the longer LCAs aren’t necessary and pull it outta spec for caster. I’m so confused.
That was probably me. The longer LCAs with the 2" AEV lift was at 6.4 degrees. I'm sure the factory LCAs would have been a tad closer to 6 degrees which apparently is on the high end.
 
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mx5red

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New rock rails and bed rails from TNT Customs installed by Happy Trails in Neptune Beach, FL. Shout out to both for quality work.

Question for the group - Anyone have a solution for covering the pinch seam that is now exposed since the OEM rock rails were removed?

For Sale in Jacksonville, FL - Mopar Rock rails and bed rails - $200 PM me if interested

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Nice steps! Only other person I've seen with 'em. BTW they were a bitch to install, smart for having a shop do it. I still haven't done it but was planning on someday taping off the sill and either spraying some bedliner or plastidip onto it.

Mine shipped bare metal from TNT. Did the shop finish them or did they come finished from TNT? I started with a primer and Rustoleum professional high performance enamel, but that got scratched off in the winter, and I've since just been spraying all my metal bits with Rustoleum Rust Reformer... it works great for rust but it's very dull/faded looking:(
 

HikerBob

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Nice steps! Only other person I've seen with 'em. BTW they were a bitch to install, smart for having a shop do it. I still haven't done it but was planning on someday taping off the sill and either spraying some bedliner or plastidip onto it.

Mine shipped bare metal from TNT. Did the shop finish them or did they come finished from TNT? I started with a primer and Rustoleum professional high performance enamel, but that got scratched off in the winter, and I've since just been spraying all my metal bits with Rustoleum Rust Reformer... it works great for rust but it's very dull/faded looking:(
Saw them on CMM Customs Gladiator and had to have them because they are different. I read about the install before I purchased them and decided it was going to be too much for me since I don’t have all the tools needed. Was going to do the same thing you did with prep, primer, rust oleum then decided against it because I wanted them to match my Mopar tube doors so I had a shop powder coat them. Sorry to hear about the paint situation. But they are cool rock rails
 

mx5red

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Saw them on CMM Customs Gladiator and had to have them because they are different. I read about the install before I purchased them and decided it was going to be too much for me since I don’t have all the tools needed. Was going to do the same thing you did with prep, primer, rust oleum then decided against it because I wanted them to match my Mopar tube doors so I had a shop powder coat them. Sorry to hear about the paint situation. But they are cool rock rails
yea I probably should've just had a shop powder coat from the get go.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Looks good. Someone just told me that the longer LCAs aren’t necessary and pull it outta spec for caster. I’m so confused.
I put them on mine - no ill-effect, didn't notice a lot of difference. The front of mine was up about 1" to 1.25"
Caster started at 4.25 with 1.25" lift and stock arms.
I never got around to having it checked after I put the longer LCAs on. So far I've not seen proof or evidence of how much change, only people saying "it should".
I'd like to see an alignment sheet showing before numbers, and another showing after numbers, as well as were both at stock height, or with a lift and if with lift, how much lift.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I also found that many experienced suspension people say the JTRs have limited caster from the factory
Why? They have the same frame, the same brackets and basically the same axle tubes with the same mounting bracket location for the control arms.
Why would Rubicon be "limited" compared to any others?
What they are saying is that if Rubicon has limited caster, and it sits maybe 1" higher than others - maybe - and you lift another, say, an OVerland 1", then it would have the same limited caster of a Rubicon - right?
Can't have it both ways.
I think a lot is internet lore, frankly, It keeps getting repeated.
An Overland with a 1" lift would have the same caster numbers as a Rubicon stock.
They are saying caster is limited on a Rubicon.
Well, the Overland is now sitting the same height as an Overland with Rubicon springs under it, so would have the same limited caster.
My Overland was 4.25 degrees caster.........
 

ShadowsPapa

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Haven't done it "to" the truck yet, but did prep a couple of bumper spacer plate sets for kicks.
My plating stuff has been out of whack and made worse by being unused for a couple of weeks.
I needed to plate-out some big parts to get the extra zinc out of solution.
Hey I have an idea! Those steel bumper spacers would likely rust in Iowa salty winters, so......... how about yellow zinc!?

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] 20220818_081314


Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] 20220818_081407


Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] 20220818_081451


I have another set I had already cleaned and primed with self-etching primer, and then painted with VHT epoxy paint -

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] 20220818_081737


Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] 20220818_081750
 

Alans17

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Haven't done it "to" the truck yet, but did prep a couple of bumper spacer plate sets for kicks.
My plating stuff has been out of whack and made worse by being unused for a couple of weeks.
I needed to plate-out some big parts to get the extra zinc out of solution.
Hey I have an idea! Those steel bumper spacers would likely rust in Iowa salty winters, so......... how about yellow zinc!?

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I have another set I had already cleaned and primed with self-etching primer, and then painted with VHT epoxy paint -

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What's the use case for these? More clearance for a winch?
 

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WILDHOBO

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Was tired of hearing the contents of my upper center counsel rattle and cascade around every time i open it to get into my lower center counsel, so i ordered one of these organizers from Amazon.

Fits like a glove!

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That looks great. Would you mind sharing a link please?
 

ShadowsPapa

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What's the use case for these? More clearance for a winch?
Yes. The Badlands Apex 1200 doesnt quite clear the steel rubicon bumper so these space the bumper forward a bit. A forum member makes the plates.
 

Rockmonkey

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Been working on electrical layout for solar and 3rd battery with dc to dc controller .wanted to keep as much as possible in cab because I have Fishbone haft rack and decked system . Nothing hot yet , 4 g from start battery to back seat ( currently under truck , will eventually remove back seats temporarily to route wire but only want to do once, need to decide what all has to come in , solar, etc. ) also under but not inside yet is 8 g going to decked pass side ammo can to power blue sea 4 fuse panel . Plan on at least 1000 inverter and 100ah lithium battery . Got a buddy way ahead of me on the overlanding setup going to advise . But any constructive advise or criticism appreciated.

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] 19085D46-BD27-4591-9910-F736794BE8C0


Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] 3F3106ED-5E37-4B91-AFFC-655BA460253D


Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] 465DA1B6-3E5A-4729-9054-586E3FE4FBDF


Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] 0A0A4899-1A1B-41F1-8436-D7912276299D
 

f33d

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added a non cutting the grill hood lock, we will see how it holds up to winter but i do like that it is hidden a bit

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Which one did you use? I saw a few that operate with the key fob.
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