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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

Hootbro

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Thankyou very much. I want to eliminate all the extra wiring when I remove the aux batt like you did. I was assuming that N1 & N3 would need power from somewhere after doing so, but you jumped them together without adding a power lead to either one, is this correct? I’m also assuming you have no dummy light or codes.
sorry for the dumb questions. Just trying to understand it %100 before I go ripping everything out.
Just the jumper as shown on N1 and N3, no extra power wires added.

No lights or codes and everything works fine.

Once you dive into it, you will see that many of the high gauge wires are Tesa Taped to each other and you will have to separate to figure out what is what. Helps to google Aux battery replacement and look for videos to see how that all come apart for access. You will need to remove the battery, battery tray and move aside the fuse box. You may have to cut some of removed wire terminals from N1 and N3 wires to uses as washers when installing your jumper wire. Same with the removed terminal at the main battery IBS sensor.

It will make sense once you start the mod.
 
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mx5red

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I had to do the same thing. I have a Rockhard FAD skid plate with the Rockhard LCA skid plates. I notched the FAD to fit and cut the bolt down.
Pretty funny the Rock Hard products didn’t play well together. I almost ordered their FAD instead so I wouldn’t have to mess with it, I would’ve been irritated if I still had to anyway.
I like the rock hard products so I’m sure you’re still happy with ‘em!
 

313IFD

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D3506F81-3823-46F9-B003-0D2001F31795.webp

These are so stupid. I wasn’t going to buy them. But because I know they exist… the silver latches stick out to me so much every time I get into my truck. So I bought the stupid covers.
Hah! The silver metal latch got to me too. Bought a 6-pack of them for our JTR and son's 2-door JL. It does look cleaner with our Gobi and son's Sting gray. One thing I don't understand is why a 4-door pack comes with 6 covers? https://www.amazon.com/YOCTM-Decora...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345029511512&psc=1

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] Screenshot_20220820-123254_Gallery
 

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Scrubb84

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Just the jumper as shown on N1 and N3, no extra power wires added.

No lights or codes and everything works fine.

Once you dive into it, you will see that many of the high gauge wires are Tesa Taped to each other and you will have to separate to figure out what is what. Helps to google Aux battery replacement and look for videos to see how that all come apart for access. You will need to remove the battery, battery tray and move aside the fuse box. You may have to cut some of removed wire terminals from N1 and N3 wires to uses as washers when installing your jumper wire. Same with the removed terminal at the main battery ESS sensor.

It will make sense once you start the mod.
I was thinking of fabricating a piece of metal to use instead of a jumper wire. Like a flat U shape with the ends folded at a 90 for the lugs. With the U being flat along the side, if you can picture that. Stupid idea?
 

Rusty PW

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Pretty funny the Rock Hard products didn’t play well together. I almost ordered their FAD instead so I wouldn’t have to mess with it, I would’ve been irritated if I still had to anyway.
I like the rock hard products so I’m sure you’re still happy with ‘em!
I beat the shit out of them at Rausch Creek.
 

f33d

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willysmd

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Installed the new infant seat next to our sons convertible in the hospital parking garage. We picked up our JTR 6MT on Thursday and it's newest passenger should be here in a few hours. It's certainly a cooler ride home from the hospital that the 80s Plymouth minivan that shuttled me back in the day.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Same with the removed terminal at the main battery ESS sensor.
That's not just an "ESS sensor" if referring to the IBS and I'd personally not remove it even if I were so inclined as to remove all parts associated with the aux battery and ESS.

Note where that sensor is - main battery. And note that it tracks everything going in, going out, calculated state of charge not just as a percentage of voltage, and more. It also tracks battery temperature and regulates the charging of the battery based on temp, voltage, flow in and out and other factors. Battery life can be shortened by removing the IBS.
People equate the IBS with ESS and call it an ESS sensor, but it's not. ESS relies on it., but it's what makes the charging system a "smart alternator" system.
The IBS also is responsible for determining of load needs to be cut to keep the battery from being drawn too far down when sitting.
It contains a sensor to monitor the battery's temperature - AGM batteries need smart charging that is based in part on the battery temperature.
Data gathered by the IBS, including temperature, voltage, and current measurements are used to control charging the crank battery.

This from Jeep -
The IBS serves two primary purposes. The first is to provide the Powertrain Control Module (or PCM) with both immediate and historical battery information, so the PCM can precisely control the charging system. Precise charging is important on a vehicle equipped with an Absorbent Glass Material (or AGM) battery, because they are especially sensitive to overcharging.
The second purpose is to provide data to the BCM for operation of the load-shedding feature.

Strip it if you want, but I wouldn't even if deleting the ESS system.
Yes, removing the IBS kills the ESS because ESS relies on it, but the IBS is part of the smart charging system.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Hah! The silver metal latch got to me too. Bought a 6-pack of them for our JTR and son's 2-door JL. It does look cleaner with our Gobi and son's Sting gray. One thing I don't understand is why a 4-door pack comes with 6 covers? https://www.amazon.com/YOCTM-Decora...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345029511512&psc=1

Screenshot_20220820-123254_Gallery.jpg
I'd mask and paint with VHT epoxy satin black before spending money on plastic covers - that may hold moisture under them. Just my opinion.......... I've done that sort of thing before on my show cars if I wanted something black.
The black DOES look better, yup.
 

313IFD

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I'd mask and paint with VHT epoxy satin black before spending money on plastic covers - that may hold moisture under them. Just my opinion.......... I've done that sort of thing before on my show cars if I wanted something black.
The black DOES look better, yup.
I agree with you and will switch to paint in a couple months after my wife doesnt freak. She freaks every time I start to mod anything on our 8 week-old jeep. I use the forum to show her that mods are normal and reason for a jeep. I'm sneaking in small undoable items to warm her up. Her Sahara went 14 yrs and 200k miles with mere wheels/tire mods. Even those were just upgrades to newer model year take-offs.
 

USMC_1Wire6337

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Installed Tazer Mini and driver passive entry kit. Used Tazer to reprogram for correct tire size and activate the passive entry. Actually works and I am overly excited to have this done!!! Locked and unlocked it giggling like a 5 year old at Christmas with a new toy.
 

Hootbro

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I was thinking of fabricating a piece of metal to use instead of a jumper wire. Like a flat U shape with the ends folded at a 90 for the lugs. With the U being flat along the side, if you can picture that. Stupid idea?
I would not call it stupid but just more work. It would need to be made out of copper flat bar material since you would be basically making a bus bar that also would need to be insulated coated. Using steel or other metal is not the best electical conductor for vehical electronics.
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