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Need advice from veteran Gladiator owners - thanks for your help

AverageOverlander

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Hey Everyone,

This is my first post. I posted this on another website before I found this site which specializes in Gladiators. I would really apricate your input.

I am trying to save money on a Gladiator purchase so I can properly outfit the Jeep for Overlanding/Camping.

I am thinking about buying a Gladiator Sport with the Max Tow Package in lieu of the Rubicon because you get the most heavy duty Dana 44 axles front and back and 4.10 gears. This saves about 16K over the Rubicon

If I add front and back air lockers, a manual sway bar disconnect, 33” KO 2 tires and steel front bumper ready for a winch I believe it will cost about $7,000. So, I am ahead about $9K and can use the rest of the funds to outfit this vehicle with other overlanding equipment.

Does this make sense to you? Am I missing something? Is the Sport with Max Tow Package suspension system going to be a problem off roading?

What are your thoughts?

Thanks,

Geoff
I'd recommend the Max Tow all the way, you know exactly what you're looking at.

The sway bar disconnect on the Rubi requires you to be in 4wd to work too, couple that with the expensive fix if it goes vs quick mechanical links, and that feature borderline cancels itself out imo.
My sway bars are disconnected the second I hit gravel(in 2wd).

I just went through a very similar decision, any rubicon I found was ~$10k more..

In the end I just couldn't justify it.
I now have an Overland with a 2" suspension lift, sway bar disconnects, 33" tires, and my LSD will come in handy for winter driving. After several adventures, I'm very happy with my decision .

I will add a winch at which point my Overland build will still come in cheaper than a Rubi.

And even with the Rubi, I would have added a winch and a bit of suspension lift as well, so realistically my Overland build will take me anywhere I'll ever need to go, rides and handles like a beast on and off-road, and is $6-9k cheaper, money that can be spent on recovery & camping gear.

To be honest though, especially with a quality rig like you're talking about building, you'll probably want to factor in some money for suspension upgrade, the stock stuff is not impressive imo.

I think it comes down to paying for convenience. With the Rubi you can pay jeep to manage all that stuff you're talking about, and simply drive an amazing unit off the lot.
Or, you can manage and build your own unit, exactly tailored to your preferences, and your money will probably go a bit further and your unit a bit more customized to your likings.

Either way, you won't be disappointed, I can promise you that haha.
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Gvsukids

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The sway bar disconnect on the Rubi requires you to be in 4wd to work too, couple that with the expensive fix if it goes vs quick mechanical links, and that feature borderline cancels itself out imo.
Tazer allows the sway bar disconnect to be disconnected in 2wd.
 

fourfa

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Hi Geoff, Not sure if you are aware but you really cant purchase a new vehicle out of state if you are a Ca resident. Many laws. You can buy used if the vehicle has more than 7500 miles on it. Or if you totaled a vehicle out of state and purchased new replacement. Then you always have to give Ca its share. Pay Ca taxes on it.
This is gonna come as news to several hundred people on this board who’ve brought new vehicles into CA. I just got plates this morning for my new JTDR purchased in Idaho and residing in CA. Yes you have to pay taxes to the state you live in. I didn’t pay a dime to Idaho. Not sure where this post comes from…
 

onewhippedpuppy

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This is gonna come as news to several hundred people on this board who’ve brought new vehicles into CA. I just got plates this morning for my new JTDR purchased in Idaho and residing in CA. Yes you have to pay taxes to the state you live in. I didn’t pay a dime to Idaho. Not sure where this post comes from…
I was surprised to read that, but nothing really surprises me out of the CA government anymore. I’ve purchased a LOT of vehicles out of state including my JT, you don’t pay any sales tax to the dealer at the time of purchase and simply pay to your state upon registration. When I owned a used car dealership almost all of my transactions were to people from out of state, I never collected sales tax on any of them.
 

SquirrelNuts

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Hey Everyone,

This is my first post. I posted this on another website before I found this site which specializes in Gladiators. I would really apricate your input.

I am trying to save money on a Gladiator purchase so I can properly outfit the Jeep for Overlanding/Camping.

I am thinking about buying a Gladiator Sport with the Max Tow Package in lieu of the Rubicon because you get the most heavy duty Dana 44 axles front and back and 4.10 gears. This saves about 16K over the Rubicon

If I add front and back air lockers, a manual sway bar disconnect, 33” KO 2 tires and steel front bumper ready for a winch I believe it will cost about $7,000. So, I am ahead about $9K and can use the rest of the funds to outfit this vehicle with other overlanding equipment.

Does this make sense to you? Am I missing something? Is the Sport with Max Tow Package suspension system going to be a problem off roading?

What are your thoughts?

Thanks,

Geoff
I've owned a JKU Sport, JKU Rubicon and now a JT Sport Max Tow. I'd say for what you are doing, Max Tow is a great option. If you're more into overlanding, exploring, camping, etc than serious rock crawling (or mudding) - a Max Tow will do everything you need and maybe even better than a Rubicon due to the weight carrying capability of the progressive rear springs.

Max Tow gets you a limited slip rear end and with the brake lock differential system that all newer jeeps have... you'll probably never need lockers unless you change your style of "jeeping". As others have said... add a good winch for peace of mind and you'll be good!

Also, if you're looking for more tire clearance, for about $600 you can swap in a set of Rubicon fenders in an hour or two and run 35's on a Max Tow.

Now...Max Tow doesn't have the name recognition and resale value of a Rubicon. If you're into swapping vehicles every couple years, that might be something else to consider.
 

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Koolcarguy

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Hey Everyone,

This is my first post. I posted this on another website before I found this site which specializes in Gladiators. I would really apricate your input.

I am trying to save money on a Gladiator purchase so I can properly outfit the Jeep for Overlanding/Camping.

I am thinking about buying a Gladiator Sport with the Max Tow Package in lieu of the Rubicon because you get the most heavy duty Dana 44 axles front and back and 4.10 gears. This saves about 16K over the Rubicon

If I add front and back air lockers, a manual sway bar disconnect, 33” KO 2 tires and steel front bumper ready for a winch I believe it will cost about $7,000. So, I am ahead about $9K and can use the rest of the funds to outfit this vehicle with other overlanding equipment.

Does this make sense to you? Am I missing something? Is the Sport with Max Tow Package suspension system going to be a problem off roading?

What are your thoughts?

Thanks,

Geoff
So my two cents is for your purpose go with the sport i have a Sport s with max tow and a Rubicon i love both and we wheel all the time in some pretty nasty stuff and honestly i use the lockers and other Rubi options very little and my Sport does just fine off road mine are both diesels so there torque monsters anyway. But save your cash go with the sport you won't be sorry enjoy your Jt
 

HorneyBadger

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This is gonna come as news to several hundred people on this board who’ve brought new vehicles into CA. I just got plates this morning for my new JTDR purchased in Idaho and residing in CA. Yes you have to pay taxes to the state you live in. I didn’t pay a dime to Idaho. Not sure where this post comes from…
I know it used to be that way so its apparently changed some time in the recent past. Just found this. It has to be 50 state legal.

Not all new vehicles are manufactured to be sold in California. Many manufacturers make vehicles to be sold only in the other 49 states. These vehicles (49-state) are made with smog equipment that meets federal emission standards, but not California standards. California-certified (50-state) vehicles are made to be sold in California.

Probably less likely now that MFG's are doing mostly 50 state legal emissions.

Sorry for the misinformation
 

fourfa

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Good point and you're right, in the 49-state vs. CA days it was a big problem. Random quote I found somewhere, can't vouch for this 100% but matches my memory

"Things changed in 2007 IIRC when 4 other states started using the CARB standards and you have some 45 state emission legal vehicles. In 2009 it went up to 14 states . In 2016 the EPA will have matched CARBs standards and CARB will collaborate on the standards for the rest of the US from 2017-2025 with the EPA."
 

Maddaw

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I've had my Sport S non max tow with open diffs for almost 2 and a half years and 35K miles. This is my first Jeep and I'm by no means a hard core wheeler. I've added a few takeoff Rubicon parts with the wild peak m/ts, springs and shocks. I've been to two off road parks in PA, earned 3 BOH badges (albeit maybe the 3 easiest), had to move through about a football field worth of ocean on the beach once, and have done some other general green trails and beach running. I toy with the idea of adding a locker or maybe just a winch after it's paid off, but we'll see.

My point is there's nothing wrong with going with the Rubicon if you want/need the features out of the gate, but a Jeep without all those extra features is more capable than many realize or want to give them credit for. Either way you'll fantasize about spending another 20k on whatever you buy. Enjoy!
I absolutely agree. I went with a Sport S because in my area at the time Rubicons and Mojaves were only available on the lots for $65k. I walked out the door at $40k with a well equipped Sport S. My thoughts were that I could do a lot with $25k. I realize I could have ordered a base Rubi for cheaper but at that time, during covid and the chip shortage, delivery was questionable.
I upgrade my own vehicles so labor costs add up to liquor and bandaids. I added a spacer level, a winch, and 35s and took it on a 3 week trip to CO, UT, and AZ hitting offroad trails. I had no intentions of doing trails like Pritchett (my TJ will be for those types of trails) but it did everything I asked of it and did it well. Kokopelli, Fins, Dome Plateau, and similars.
I have since turned it into a full overlanding rig but have yet to regear or add lockers. Still have not used the winch or needed lockers using it as an overlanding rig. That includes 3 BoH trails.
It really just depends on intended use. If I was looking for a rock crawler my choice would have been different and maybe even something with better break over and departure angles. Individual needs vary.
 
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@Geoff Massa See...there ya go. Save the money on adding lockers and put it into a good (and I mean Warn) winch.
Badland winch from harbor freight is just as good if not the same. I have the biggest baddest warn winch and have thought to myself why didn’t I go that route?
Also, I did go that route with harbor freight Roadshock lights. Best investment that didn’t break the bank.
 

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Unless you order from the factory, there are no "base" Rubicons. At least not when I bought mine in April '21. There might be some around the US, but the base price point is a marketing scam.
So true. I paid for someone else’s rubicon and their loadout had it all but the outlet in the truck bed ? of all things, struck me as weird. I think they bought it originally for 64k. I only paid 48k at 7.5k miles in January ‘21.
 
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Wow,

What a great forum with quick responses. My travels will include desert, high Sierra's and Pacific Northwest. The reason for the big delta between the Ruby and the sport is because if I went Ruby I selected a lot of other option for trails. Maybe I should just find the most basic Ruby and look at that.

What options do you think I should select on a Ruby if I go that route? Should I look at any options? What do you think are must haves. I will be on fairly rougher trails sometimes, but, I will not actively seek out rock crawling or putting the Jeep to the test on purpose.

Geoff
I will literally give you my stock rubicon shocks, coils, and basically everything that I took off when I upgraded my lift and shocks and also a spare driveline cuz why not ??‍♂
I live in the Sacramento region, and this stuff is literally collecting dust.
 

NachoRuby

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So true. I paid for someone else’s rubicon and their loadout had it all but the outlet in the truck bed ? of all things, struck me as weird. I think they bought it originally for 64k. I only paid 48k at 7.5k miles in January ‘21.
Mine was $47500. Brand new. It's not completely base, but still, they exist on the cheaper side. That was MY2021 pricing though. I think it's a regional thing. They would not sell many $64k trucks around here, far from any major city. If they optioned one at that cost without a customer order, it would sit for ages here. I see lots of sports, sport s, Rubicons, but very few diesels, and very few overlands or high altitudes. I see a few more Mojaves than either of those, but most are sport, sport s, or Rubicon with the gas engine. Same for the Wrangler except insert Sahara in place of overland.
 
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Mine was $47500. Brand new. It's not completely base, but still, they exist on the cheaper side. That was MY2021 pricing though. I think it's a regional thing. They would not sell many $64k trucks around here, far from any major city. If they optioned one at that cost. It would sit for ages here.
The good ol’ days with “no chip shortage” pricing. And I agree, it’s a very regional thing.
 

NachoRuby

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The good ol’ days with “no chip shortage” pricing. And I agree, it’s a very regional thing.
Yes, I'd buy a wrangler now. They've priced me out of a new gladiator. Actually, my wife is looking at a new wrangler, and we're stuck getting a two door. The four doors have also priced us out. So I'm gonna have my children kicking the back of the seat for the next several years whenever we drive that.
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