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Will turning off the ESS save the aux battery?
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Doubtful since it's only handling vehicle electronics when ESS is active. Otherwise, for other starts and functions, it's in parallel with the main battery.Will turning off the ESS save the aux battery?
to my understanding AGM are actually more difficult to charge because they require higher voltage. But i guess it depends on context like a agm is less prome to damage than a standard wet battery and a damaged battery causes issues. I really think a major problem with this situation is the different sized batteries. So if they are parallel when starting the aus is going to drain way faster than the main. Then it will Also recharge sooner and overcharge. Theres so many complexities. I noticed the last few days I am charging at 14.7v but again have a 3 minute drive to work. So it will be interesting to see if voltage still stays within spec come this weekend.Doubtful since it's only handling vehicle electronics when ESS is active. Otherwise, for other starts and functions, it's in parallel with the main battery.
When you go out to start your truck right now, when you crank it, although the main load comes from the crank or main battery, the aux battery is also in parallel with it so a certain amount of discharge from the aux would take place.
When starting and charging and driving, they are connected together.
The electronics would be a drain on the aux battery - but as long as all else is equal, it should be charged right back up when it restarts. That's assuming all else works properly.
Not the same battery, but AGM are popular battery types for marine use and in solar power systems from what I've seen.
They are supposed to better handle loads, discharging, and are faster to recharge with less effort.
Odd, though, as that doesn't seem to be the case with Jeep's use of them.
Supposedly dealers have a way to check the tables and data from the IBS with a scanner of some sort. Will they? Doubtful - it involves work and thought and understanding what they are seeing and reading.Could the problems be caused by a bad IBS? How would you know the IBS was going bad?
East Penn makes Deka and NAPA batteries - a USA company. I've always had great luck with NAPA batteries.Dekka batteries are supposed to be a US manufacture too. Not always easy to find but Ive read the also make batteries for other brands.
In ESS mode (engine is stopped) does the AUX battery also support the headlights, wipers and interior blower not to mention the rear heated glass? Thats a potentially big load if so and kind of hard on that little fellow.
Switch to lithium batteries, the issue goes away. No charger needed.Any advice on how to best put on a trickle charger for long-term storage?
Also thinking of getting a second set of jumper cables and creating a short cable from the red cable to hook up between the positive of the main and the N1 terminal. Not sure if that's a good idea so I'm asking.(only if needed while jumping a dead battery as I was told by the service guy that this is a recurring problem)
You can check the voltage of each battery separately by taking the black cables off the top of the IBS - one leads to the body ground on the right fender area, the other goes to the aux battery negative post.Well I never use the stop start I always hit the button and turn it off but yesterday I thought I would see if the stop start worked and it didn’t work all day yesterday every time I would come to a stop the engine kept running so this morning the Jeep starts but now it shows blind spot needs service and then it shows start stop not available and nothing works on the dash or the air conditioning the Jeep starts but I guess the auxiliary battery is dead it’s just got 24 thousand miles on it so I guess warranty will cover it I hope I am going to leave it alone until the Jeep dealer opens up Tuesday this is the only problem I have ever had with the gladiator is there a better battery than the one that comes in the Jeep ???
Does it matter if you disconnect the negative? Isn’t N1 direct to the aux battery so any reading from it would be just the aux battery?You can check the voltage of each battery separately by taking the black cables off the top of the IBS - one leads to the body ground on the right fender area, the other goes to the aux battery negative post.
Check voltage between post N1 on the PDC and the negative cable leading to the aux battery after you remove it from the IBS on the crank battery.
Also check for a blown N3 fuse. If that's blown, the aux battery won't/can't charge from the alternator.
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You didnt ask any questions there...but here you go on the battery size/part number. Google came up real quick.I keep hearing people saying replace the aux battery with something from NAPA or Dekka as they are American made batteries but no one is giving any Model numbers. Everywhere I have gone says the Aux battery is a dealer item and they do not show it in their systems. The Main battery, at least in my diesel is a Group H7 94R. I also have heard the Aux battery in the diesel is under the main battery not the fuse box. Anyone know the answer to either question?
Those websites are sometimes incorrect - just like the LED bulbs I bought for my Gladiator that 'do not fit a '22 Gladiator', that have been in my truck for two months now and fit / work fine.Thanks for the info ! But.......
I checked the links. Auto zones website says it will not fit my 2021 JTRD. The Mopar link says no longer available and the last link says they won't ship because hazardous materials.
My local Autozone says it's a dealer only item.
Going to run to NAPA today to see what they say.