Broken tab/weld on Mojave Frame..No Warranty???

[ShadowsPapa]

They all overload the insert so it rips out of the bracket.......

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[Minty JL]

Well box in the mounts and should be good to go.................probably do it when I brace the front axle.

 

[Roklimo]

https://metalcloak.com/jt-gladiator-rear-sway-bar-reinforcement-bracket.html

 

[WILDHOBO]

OR if the manufacturers would just step up and include the correct solution to start with that bracket maybe wouldn't be needed? Evo, Rubicon Express, Helwig, and Clayton are the ones that Ive dealt with in the shop and they all do it similar. I think Metal Cloak does it to judging by the guy on our Rubicon trip's brackets looking like the bolts were angled and ready to rip out.....

They all overload the insert so it rips out of the bracket....... By your ideology, MC should be awarded a medal for engineering both the problem and the solution at and $80 cost to you?

I’m sorry, how exactly has metal cloak contributed to the problem? Your viewpoint is your own, but spending energy being mad at Jeep, costs way more than $80 for me. No vehicle is perfect in every aspect of its design. If it was, this wouldn’t be nearly as much fun as a hobby.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I’m sorry, how exactly has metal cloak contributed to the problem? Your viewpoint is your own, but spending energy being mad at Jeep, costs way more than $80 for me. No vehicle is perfect in every aspect of its design. If it was, this wouldn’t be nearly as much fun as a hobby.

Duh.......By sending cheesy sway bar sleeves installed in the rear links? Did you miss the pics I posted of how the sleeves load the insert rater than the actual bracket? You should be angry at the aftermarket, not Jeep. Ever seen a stock Jeep with the bracket ripped out? Me neither and I work on these things daily!

You are right....it's my opinion, but explain how my truck has endured 11,000-12,000 miles of off road with extended wheel travel, top heavy loads, and stiffer poly bushings WITHOUT BREAKING? I'm thinking it's the proper clamping of the link to the bracket? I've my living over the past 30+ years by re-engineering an already decent product to work better for our uses.......

 

[WILDHOBO]

Duh.......By sending cheesy sway bar sleeves installed in the rear links? Did you miss the pics I posted of how the sleeves load the insert rater than the actual bracket? You should be angry at the aftermarket, not Jeep. Ever seen a stock Jeep with the bracket ripped out? Me neither and I work on these things daily!

You are right....it's my opinion, but explain how my truck has endured 11,000-12,000 miles of off road with extended wheel travel, top heavy loads, and stiffer poly bushings WITHOUT BREAKING? I'm thinking it's the proper clamping of the link to the bracket? I've my living over the past 30+ years by re-engineering an already decent product to work better for our uses.......

I had actually. I didn’t read all 9 pages of a thread, as I had a fair amount of information regarding this linkage. I looked at them now, and see your point, but my links aren’t designed like that, and don’t seem to have the same issue. Also, mine didn’t fail, and I’ve been wheeling it hard on boulders for 29k miles with a 4.5” lift in the rear and 37’s. No sign of failure either. I installed the brackets to strengthen it proactively. I also used a flange nut behind the insert. I like keeping the sway bar geometry as close to stock as possible in a daily driver, and $80 for brackets is extra insurance.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I had actually. I didn’t read all 9 pages of a thread, as I had a fair amount of information regarding this linkage. I looked at them now, and see your point, but my links aren’t designed like that, and don’t seem to have the same issue. Also, mine didn’t fail, and I’ve been wheeling it hard on boulders for 29k miles with a 4.5” lift in the rear and 37’s. No sign of failure either. I installed the brackets to strengthen it proactively. I also used a flange nut behind the insert. I like keeping the sway bar geometry as close to stock as possible in a daily driver, and $80 for brackets is extra insurance.

I have a set of those MC brackets sitting on my floor too........Figured if I don't need them, one of my clients might.

I'm hoping by my tagging Clayton's in my post, might bring attention to make a change in their product, I have no interest in any of the other brands out there at this time. Just a little larger spacer might be the big difference needed?

 

[WILDHOBO]

I have a set of those MC brackets sitting on my floor too........Figured if I don't need them, one of my clients might.

I'm hoping by my tagging Clayton's in my post, might bring attention to make a change in their product, I have no interest in any of the other brands out there at this time. Just a little larger spacer might be the big difference needed?

I don’t disagree. I figured the insert was no longer a weak point if it’s between the metal cloak bracket and a nut. The bracket now IS that spacer, in the form of a big piece of steel.

 

[ecidiego]

Went and looked at my September 2021 Mojave..... the whole piece is solid...no crack or seam.

 

[hjdca]

This is what I learned on the rear end links topic. Where we 4wheel on the West Coast, there are a lot of boulders and dry waterfalls. Most of these trails (also badge of honor) involve tight turns for the long Gladiator. This means that you can place your front tires exactly where you want them, but, sometimes, you cannot get your rear wheels where you want them because you absolutely have to turn. This means your rear tire can slide off a boulder or not be where you want it, and it hits the end links causing the bends. You can reduce this dramatically by shortening your end links and keeping the sway bar ends angled up. Unfortunately, this limits your aritculation, and it extreme cases can cause them to flip. I have bent numerous sway bar end links and sway bar end tabs with the metalcloak brace, and in the end, I can tell you that if you challenge yourself and truck on the west coast badge of honor trails, and your sway bar ends are parallel to the ground, you will experience damage to this area. It is just unavoidable. Angle up the sway bar end, shorten your end links, and you can reduce the chances of damage, but, again, it's a trade off. As I showed in my previous post, I did not want to compromise my articulation with my long rear Falcon shocks, so, I went for the ultimate solution - the Rock Jock anti-rock sway bar. Teraflex also makes one that is cheaper.
So, in the end, it depends on where you 4wheel, and how much you challenge yourself, but, you must keep in mind that the Gladiator's length provides much more challenge for the rear end that a Wrangler on boulders in the tough badge of honor trails.

 

[CrazyCooter]

This is what I learned on the rear end links topic. Where we 4wheel on the West Coast, there are a lot of boulders and dry waterfalls. Most of these trails (also badge of honor) involve tight turns for the long Gladiator. This means that you can place your front tires exactly where you want them, but, sometimes, you cannot get your rear wheels where you want them because you absolutely have to turn. This means your rear tire can slide off a boulder or not be where you want it, and it hits the end links causing the bends. You can reduce this dramatically by shortening your end links and keeping the sway bar ends angled up. Unfortunately, this limits your aritculation, and it extreme cases can cause them to flip. I have bent numerous sway bar end links and sway bar end tabs with the metalcloak brace, and in the end, I can tell you that if you challenge yourself and truck on the west coast badge of honor trails, and your sway bar ends are parallel to the ground, you will experience damage to this area. It is just unavoidable. Angle up the sway bar end, shorten your end links, and you can reduce the chances of damage, but, again, it's a trade off. As I showed in my previous post, I did not want to compromise my articulation with my long rear Falcon shocks, so, I went for the ultimate solution - the Rock Jock anti-rock sway bar. Teraflex also makes one that is cheaper.
So, in the end, it depends on where you 4wheel, and how much you challenge yourself, but, you must keep in mind that the Gladiator's length provides much more challenge for the rear end that a Wrangler on boulders in the tough badge of honor trails.

Agreed!

A simple solution would be a simple block spacer redrilled to raise the bar. Looks like one could get at least 1" without contacting thje track bar bracket. If it was also designed to move the bushings inward, we could possibly get 1.5"+? I might have to look and see what I have fro aluminum bar stock laying around.......

 

[Rusty PW]

This is what I learned on the rear end links topic. Where we 4wheel on the West Coast, there are a lot of boulders and dry waterfalls. Most of these trails (also badge of honor) involve tight turns for the long Gladiator. This means that you can place your front tires exactly where you want them, but, sometimes, you cannot get your rear wheels where you want them because you absolutely have to turn. This means your rear tire can slide off a boulder or not be where you want it, and it hits the end links causing the bends. You can reduce this dramatically by shortening your end links and keeping the sway bar ends angled up. Unfortunately, this limits your aritculation, and it extreme cases can cause them to flip. I have bent numerous sway bar end links and sway bar end tabs with the metalcloak brace, and in the end, I can tell you that if you challenge yourself and truck on the west coast badge of honor trails, and your sway bar ends are parallel to the ground, you will experience damage to this area. It is just unavoidable. Angle up the sway bar end, shorten your end links, and you can reduce the chances of damage, but, again, it's a trade off. As I showed in my previous post, I did not want to compromise my articulation with my long rear Falcon shocks, so, I went for the ultimate solution - the Rock Jock anti-rock sway bar. Teraflex also makes one that is cheaper.
So, in the end, it depends on where you 4wheel, and how much you challenge yourself, but, you must keep in mind that the Gladiator's length provides much more challenge for the rear end that a Wrangler on boulders in the tough badge of honor trails.

Ahhh......we do the same stuff on the east coast too. Come out and do Mammoth at AAOA.

 

[Stratus109]

It is....

I suggest that if you live in the north undercoat with Wool wax fluid film or the PB blaster and a spray gun.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

WD40 is a joke for preventing rust. Ask the people who coat saws and other tools in their shop with it only to find............ rust...... a few weeks later. Tried it myself on backsaws and other saw blades - still rusted. Even the tools in my auto shop - rust with WD40.

I stopped using it years ago- found better products.

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