Manual Transmission Club

[Hootbro]

is a clutch and regear something done more often separately or usually together? Would I be saving time or effort doing them together otherwise ?

Other than the driveshafts being disconnected, that is really two separate billable levels of effort. A shop may give you a slight discount if both is done at the same time but there really is no appreciable labor time savings having them done at the same time.

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[Bbannongmu]

So I looked into service for a dual friction clutch and regear into 4.56 at some local shops. I don’t have the tools or know-how to handle this type of work myself. I was quoted between $4500-5500 for both services at the same time across the shops, which is a little rich for my wallet right now post Xmas.

is there a better bang for the buck between regearing or a new clutch? I suppose my stock 3.73 is fine, just don’t see 6th essentially ever at this point. (392 wrangler takeoffs are wheels now, maybe 35” when they wear out at most). I’m going to be doing more towing than Expected and Already got my first clutch overheat warning during a trailer back-up event.

is a clutch and regear something done more often separately or usually together? Would I be saving time or effort doing them together otherwise ?

I know I quoted you, but obviously asking the whole M/T community here.

Quote sounds on the higher end of the price spectrum. I was at about $3,100 for clutch, hydraulics (I got mine separately- early production model) and Yukon 5.13 gears installed. I have a shop - Keystone 4x4 that works with me on installing parts I purchase and a great supplier - Bad Attitude Offroad that provides fair prices on parts.

gears are great too but IMHO the clutch has a slight edge as the best mod ever (gears are second best). I did mine separately so I could save up a bit. Good luck!

 

[piroman683]

I disagree. Regar is cheaper than a clutch and allows for better clutch life when gears are properly matched to the tire. I did a regear at a shop and 2 techs finished the job in under 2 hours, total bill was around $1600, in California. The clutch kit alone is roughly the same price. Then add 6+ hours of labor and the fact that your drive line is still not optimized.

Without a regear the whole drive line, including engine, are under more consistent heavy loading so that's why you wear out the clutch faster.

 

[AKDrifter]

Without a regear the whole drive line, including engine, are under more consistent heavy loading so that's why you wear out the clutch faster.

Under normal conditions I would agree with you, but not on a clutch that has inherent flaws that have required it to have 2 different recalls that never addressed the actual issue. The clutch is a weak spot on the 6 speed. Going aftermarket to eliminate that potential problem should be high on the list. I'm going to do both when I do my clutch, but if I could only afford one upgrade it would be clutch first on this Jeep for sure.

 

[piroman683]

Under normal conditions I would agree with you, but not on a clutch that has inherent flaws that have required it to have 2 different recalls that never addressed the actual issue. The clutch is a weak spot on the 6 speed. Going aftermarket to eliminate that potential problem should be high on the list. I'm going to do both when I do my clutch, but if I could only afford one upgrade it would be clutch first on this Jeep for sure.

I recall the first recall was because of it overheating and exploding, the fix was a reflash of the ECU to reduce torque until temps hit a specific level. This was because of flaws in the curing of the clutch material at the supplier, which was fixed. What was the 2nd?

The clutch unfortunately is the weak link, but it is capable enough (the fixed OEM clutch) to handle a supercharger (Magnuson warranty). As reference, I've been running the stock clutch on 37's with 4.56 gears, and supercharged. No issues. And over 68k miles. Even when I was rock crawling in 4lo I was impressed with how well it held

 

[Bbannongmu]

Under normal conditions I would agree with you, but not on a clutch that has inherent flaws that have required it to have 2 different recalls that never addressed the actual issue. The clutch is a weak spot on the 6 speed. Going aftermarket to eliminate that potential problem should be high on the list. I'm going to do both when I do my clutch, but if I could only afford one upgrade it would be clutch first on this Jeep for sure.

Agree. The smell of burnt clutch when backing a 2800 lb atv trailer in a flat yard (not riding the clutch at all) was the clearest sign that the stock clutch wasn’t designed for my use. FWIW my $0.02 … keep the change….YMMV

 

[HenrytheDestroyer]

Agree. The smell of burnt clutch when backing a 2800 lb atv trailer in a flat yard (not riding the clutch at all) was the clearest sign that the stock clutch wasn’t designed for my use. FWIW my $0.02 … keep the change….YMMV

Yeah i just had the same experience a week ago. Still smells right now every time I start it up

 

[AKDrifter]

I recall the first recall was because of it overheating and exploding, the fix was a reflash of the ECU to reduce torque until temps hit a specific level. This was because of flaws in the curing of the clutch material at the supplier, which was fixed. What was the 2nd?

The clutch unfortunately is the weak link, but it is capable enough (the fixed OEM clutch) to handle a supercharger (Magnuson warranty). As reference, I've been running the stock clutch on 37's with 4.56 gears, and supercharged. No issues. And over 68k miles. Even when I was rock crawling in 4lo I was impressed with how well it held

The reflash was the 2nd recall "solution". The first was to put a (bomb proof or self sealing don't know how it helped) sleeve over the hydraulic and fuel lines so that when the clutch explodes they hopefully also don't catch fire. Limiting engine output/rpm and shrapnel proofing lines is not a fix, and it shows how much faith Jeep has in its own product.

 

[DanW]

I recall the first recall was because of it overheating and exploding, the fix was a reflash of the ECU to reduce torque until temps hit a specific level. This was because of flaws in the curing of the clutch material at the supplier, which was fixed. What was the 2nd?

The clutch unfortunately is the weak link, but it is capable enough (the fixed OEM clutch) to handle a supercharger (Magnuson warranty). As reference, I've been running the stock clutch on 37's with 4.56 gears, and supercharged. No issues. And over 68k miles. Even when I was rock crawling in 4lo I was impressed with how well it held

I've got the earliest clutch, in fact, one of the first batch off the production line for the JL, and at 75,000 miles, it's doing just fine. I had both recalls done, but never had an issue. I've been to Moab twice with lots of crawling, tow a boat frequently, and drive in a pretty spirited manner at times. I just don't see how the material on the clutch was the problem. I believe it was improper bleeding at the factory. There's quite a bit of evidence to support that. Either way, I'm enjoying the hell out of it.

 

[Ichthus]

Well, I was never real thrilled with the gearing or the clutch In my 20 Rubi. My wife has never had a problem borrowing my manual Jeeps before…but she doesn’t want anything to do with this one.

23 Mojave is produced and should be at the dealer any day...with the Auto. Going to have to find something else with a third pedal soon. Civic Si? Type R? Integra? WRX?

 

[IPRoutes]

Well, I was never real thrilled with the gearing or the clutch In my 20 Rubi. My wife has never had a problem borrowing my manual Jeeps before…but she doesn’t want anything to do with this one.

23 Mojave is produced and should be at the dealer any day...with the Auto. Going to have to find something else with a third pedal soon. Civic Si? Type R? Integra? WRX?

Challenger R/T

 

[Duece McCracken]

I do love my 6spd HV Rubi.

Also love my 6spd 2019 Bullitt on E85.

 

[Ichthus]

Challenger R/T

naw. I’d like to see better fuel economy for my commute…. I think if I go to a pure toy it would be an S2000, Boxster, Caymen, 400Z

 

[IanNubbit]

The reflash was the 2nd recall "solution". The first was to put a (bomb proof or self sealing don't know how it helped) sleeve over the hydraulic and fuel lines so that when the clutch explodes they hopefully also don't catch fire. Limiting engine output/rpm and shrapnel proofing lines is not a fix, and it shows how much faith Jeep has in its own product.

Lot of mis-information here.
the first recall was due to early run of fittings to the brake master cylinder would be mounted improperly on some units off the assembly line and cause air to enter the system, which would make the clutch hang up, in turn after extended period of time, cause the clutch to over heat and spontaneous heat source with special effects is created.
The second recall reduced torque at low RPMs on manual JL/JTs to reduce clutch slip. Now this one make me mad, they realized the clutch was sub par, so instead of making a better one, they just made the vehicle baby it to prevent slippage. And we continue to use the exact same PN clutch with no revision.

this all seperate from the fact that the clutxh has physical rotational play built in with no spring or dampening to “reduce harsh engagements” but in turn makes the trucks sound like clunky piles of junk and makes you feel like you dont know how to drive stick as it engages prematurely at time due to it

 

[OHJeeper]

I disagree. Regar is cheaper than a clutch and allows for better clutch life when gears are properly matched to the tire. I did a regear at a shop and 2 techs finished the job in under 2 hours, total bill was around $1600, in California. The clutch kit alone is roughly the same price. Then add 6+ hours of labor and the fact that your drive line is still not optimized.

Without a regear the whole drive line, including engine, are under more consistent heavy loading so that's why you wear out the clutch faster.

This is one of those religious arguments that no one will win, but I'll put my vote in the "do the gears first" category.

I have the 6MT and I feel like if I get the gearing right on 37's (going 5.13) that the clutch will be less of a headache.

If I had to pick only one mod between new clutch and regear, it would be the regear (actually, it will be the regear - in March)

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