So disappointed in this Diesel platform; wish there was a return policy.

[houseofdiesel]

Does the Gladiator have the + or - buttons to select the gear? By manually dropping the gear down to 6th or 5th, you are locking out the higher gears.

Button? You slap the gear shifter to the side and toggle it forward and backwards to select gears. For shits and giggles Jeep engineers designed it ass backwards. Up is down and down is up. The M stands for Manual to the left of the shifter.

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[houseofdiesel]

On my Ram EcoDiesel, you can see where I have 8th locked out, but the truck is currently running in 5th on a steep mountain pass towing 7,000 lbs.

If you look at the RPM band Torque drops off at 3k RPM. Over 3k RPM you're just creating more heat under load. Everything over 3k is really only useful for romping around town empty. Same with my 3.0L Dmax.

 

[biodiesel]

Button? You slap the gear shifter to the side and toggle it forward and backwards to select gears.

Gotcha. On the Ram there are + and - buttons on the steering wheel.

 

[biodiesel]

If you look at the RPM band Torque drops off at 3k RPM. Over 3k RPM you're just creating more heat under load. Everything over 3k is really only useful for romping around town empty. Same with my 3.0L Dmax.

On that trip, I had the cruise on to see how hot I could get the oil and coolant temperatures. Normally, I would slow down on long steep climbs, but I was taking data on this particular climb. 246*F oil temperature was the hottest I saw, granted the ambient temperatures were fairly cool.

 

[Mike-len]

I’ve read through pretty much this entire thread, and I’m sure I missed a few things, but one thing I’m wondering is has anyone had derating issues after they’ve had the GDE tune installed? I’m assuming that at least a few people in this forum have the GDE tune.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Does the Gladiator have the + or - buttons to select the gear? By manually dropping the gear down to 6th or 5th, you are locking out the higher gears.

No. You move the lever left to manual mode and push forward to downshift, pull rearward to upshift. It'll hold that gear unless it senses lugging or over-speeding if I recall correctly.

 

[Gladiator_92]

Button? You slap the gear shifter to the side and toggle it forward and backwards to select gears. For shits and giggles Jeep engineers designed it ass backwards. Up is down and down is up. The M stands for Manual to the left of the shifter.

I believe the orientation of the +/- is correct as it mimics a sequential shifter. Watch in race cars or drift cars with sequential, the driver pulls back to advance shifts.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I believe the orientation of the +/- is correct as it mimics a sequential shifter. Watch in race cars or drift cars with sequential, the driver pulls back to advance shifts.

Not always. I had a racing ratchet shifter in my automatic car. You bumped it forward to upshift.
Then there's the fastest Gremlin - you can "ride along with Kevin" and watch him shift his 5 speed drag car (his name is "stickshifter" on many forums).
A lot of drag cars out there aren't "back for up".

 

[Gladiator_92]

Not always. I had a racing ratchet shifter in my automatic car. You bumped it forward to upshift.
Then there's the fastest Gremlin - you can "ride along with Kevin" and watch him shift his 5 speed drag car (his name is "stickshifter" on many forums).
A lot of drag cars out there aren't "back for up".

Good to know it's either way, I guess depending on transition manufacturer.. would be cool if you could program your preference haha

 

[KodiakFisherman]

When these 3.0’s are in boats they run at 80% torque all day & don’t bat an eye. I’m not endorsing deletes, but can’t help but wonder if the water cooled EGR (which boats don’t have) isn’t working as hard (or harder) as the turbo.

 

[Sank]

For shits and giggles Jeep engineers designed it ass backwards.

I believe the orientation of the +/- is correct as it mimics a sequential shifter. Watch in race cars or drift cars with sequential, the driver pulls back to advance shifts.

Not always.
A lot of drag cars out there aren't "back for up".

Well, [flamesuit = true] drag racing isn't real racing anyway [flamesuit = false] so it's cute but moot that they sometimes have their shift levers wrong ;- )

There's a whole 'nother thread on this, and as I recall, general consensus is people are happy with the orientation as built. I disagree with houseofdiesel and agree with Gladiator_92. I am glad the shifting is "right". The best analogy in my mind, when I drive my manual, when I shift from 1st to 2nd, or 5th to 6th during acceleration, i pull back. Just like here. When I need to downshift to pass on the highway, i push 6th up to 5th. So it's very intuitive to me. Shifting that involves lateral movement is neither straight up or straight back so the analogy doesn't apply.

In my motorcycle track days, almost everybody would flip the shift lever direction. Street bikes are up for faster. Track bikes are down for faster. There's a certain elegance to running your bike that way, but the main reason is you can't up shift when turning left because the pavement is too close to the shift lever if you need to go up to go faster.

Ok, back on topic, real question. This was maybe only glossed over previously in this thread, At what RPM do we consider this engine to be lugging, and why? The answer is not "below 2k because it feels like it". Is there an answer that is based on injector timing data or something else objective that we transition from "not lugging" to "lugging" ? And what is likely to fail prematurely if operated below the 'lugging point' ?

 

[dcmdon]

I use the manual function of my AT all the time.

Just this morning I was driving up to a ski mountain in my (gas) Gladiator at about 50 mph. When the road flattened out for a second, it would run up to 8th, then with a slight rise it would grab 5th or 6th.

If I lock it in 7th for part of the trip and 6th for the rest, the motor isn't lugging and it's a much nicer ride.

Leaving it in A is fine and certainly won't hurt anything, but the drive is nicer locking it in a given gear.

The same thing holds true for towing the utility trailer that I own. I just leave it in 7th and run 70 mph or so at roughly 2500 rpm. (4.10 gears and 35s). Leaving it in A is fine. The drive is just more peaceful without it grabbing a lower gear with every rise.

 

[@californiajeeping]

Well, [flamesuit = true] drag racing isn't real racing anyway [flamesuit = false] so it's cute but moot that they sometimes have their shift levers wrong ;- )

There's a whole 'nother thread on this, and as I recall, general consensus is people are happy with the orientation as built. I disagree with houseofdiesel and agree with Gladiator_92. I am glad the shifting is "right". The best analogy in my mind, when I drive my manual, when I shift from 1st to 2nd, or 5th to 6th during acceleration, i pull back. Just like here. When I need to downshift to pass on the highway, i push 6th up to 5th. So it's very intuitive to me. Shifting that involves lateral movement is neither straight up or straight back so the analogy doesn't apply.

In my motorcycle track days, almost everybody would flip the shift lever direction. Street bikes are up for faster. Track bikes are down for faster. There's a certain elegance to running your bike that way, but the main reason is you can't up shift when turning left because the pavement is too close to the shift lever if you need to go up to go faster.

Ok, back on topic, real question. This was maybe only glossed over previously in this thread, At what RPM do we consider this engine to be lugging, and why? The answer is not "below 2k because it feels like it". Is there an answer that is based on injector timing data or something else objective that we transition from "not lugging" to "lugging" ? And what is likely to fail prematurely if operated below the 'lugging point' ?

Lugging is when the engine is at 70+% throttle and not making enough boost to make power. Right around 1500rpm. At 1800 starts to build closer to 20psi. The engine has no power without boost and the turbo doesn’t spool until 1800rpm.

 

[Sank]

Lugging is when the engine is at 70+% throttle and not making enough boost to make power. Right around 1500rpm. At 1800 starts to build closer to 20psi. The engine has no power without boost and the turbo doesn’t spool until 1800rpm.

Thanks for this. Will give it some thought!

 

[Orange01z28]

Good to know it's either way, I guess depending on transition manufacturer.. would be cool if you could program your preference haha

Yeah, like ShadowsPapa said I had a car with a ratchet shifter and it was the opposite of the Jeep

The Jeep is like the Dwarf cars we raced with motorcycle trannies

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