Camaroboi13
Well-Known Member
Doesn’t make any sense to do so, I don’t think you can get enough droop on a 2” lift to need a driveshaft.Has anyone had to replace the drive line after installation on a 2-2.5 inch lift?
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Doesn’t make any sense to do so, I don’t think you can get enough droop on a 2” lift to need a driveshaft.Has anyone had to replace the drive line after installation on a 2-2.5 inch lift?
Nice poke. Any rubbing @ full turn?Clayton diesel 2.5 with rancho rs9000 adjustables, Metal cloak front arm brackets. American made and rides well.![]()
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New front drive line?Clayton diesel 2.5 with rancho rs9000 adjustables, Metal cloak front arm brackets. American made and rides well.![]()
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From what I have read. It's not until you get into the 3.5"+ range of lifts.Has anyone had to replace the drive line after installation on a 2-2.5 inch lift?
No rubbing at full turn at all. With either the kendas or the generals I have. No rubbing when I had it straight lifting a wheel. Sway bars connected.Nice poke. Any rubbing @ full turn?
Negative, stock shafts front and rear. Just Clayton front uppers set to stock with the metal cloak drops. No vibrations.New front drive line?
Wheel it hard or pretty mild? Or what's your build purpose? (Use)Negative, stock shafts front and rear. Just Clayton front uppers set to stock with the metal cloak drops. No vibrations.
Mild, waiting on rh4x4 goodies (ca skid and rhx steps ) and for me to make up my mind on which oil and fuel skid I want. I have a 60 mile commute so I want to keep it reasonable while still doing weekend warrior trails. Aoaa and rausch are in the plans , only had this jeep in vermonts adventure academy so far. I do have a fear that jacking it up too much will void that sweet power train warranty and towing stability.Wheel it hard or pretty mild? Or what's your build purpose? (Use)