AEV 2” Lift or Metal Cloak 2.5” GC for Mojave

[Chucker23]

So I know these lifts are on the oppposite ends f the spectrum but here’s the deal.

I have been set on the AEV 2” spacer lift for a while now but wanted to add the geometry correction brackets and front and rear Steer smart yeti track bars and Sumo springs front and rear. He mentioned with all that I could just jump up to a metal cloak game changer 2.5 for about $1000. Haven’t been able to find too much on the MC GC 2.5 so looking for feedback on that specific lift.

Would ride be less enjoyable (rougher/stiffer)with the new springs?

One thing I have read is a lot of people get more than 2.5” lift. Some report 4-5” of lift. I dont want that much because I am sticking with 35” tires And I dont want to look like i skipped leg day!

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[Billkowski]

Haven't installed it yet, but I got the AEV lift for my Mojave....no interest in messing with the springs as it rides nice now, just want a little lift. Like you, sticking with 35s and would not want to go any higher in any case.

 

[Scott L]

Really all depends how you’re going to use it. Mild off road with no or little rock crawling stick with AEV. If you want to do serious Offroad rock crawling etc get metal cloak or Clayton or EVO with adjustable control arms.

 

[Camaroboi13]

If you have a Mojave you already spent the money on a good suspension, and I wouldn’t mess with that. Personally, I would just do a simple spacer lift and call it good. Springs aren’t necessary, rear track bar isn’t necessary, even the front track bar isn’t a necessity. I would do spacers, sway bar end links, front track bar, and your geo brackets and enjoy it.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I could see the sumo springs in the rear if you tow or load it up heavy regularly, but they'd be a downgrade from the fox front hydraulic bump stops. That saves you $200 right there. The mc lift doesn't come with geo brackets so all you're really gaining is the front track bar. With the 2" AEV kit my front axle is only off by 3/8". It's not even visible to the naked eye. I plan to add the geo brackets but the aev kit rides like stock on mine. I went straight to 37s though.

 

[PuddleJumper]

So I know these lifts are on the oppposite ends f the spectrum but here’s the deal.

I have been set on the AEV 2” spacer lift for a while now but wanted to add the geometry correction brackets and front and rear Steer smart yeti track bars and Sumo springs front and rear. He mentioned with all that I could just jump up to a metal cloak game changer 2.5 for about $1000. Haven’t been able to find too much on the MC GC 2.5 so looking for feedback on that specific lift.

Would ride be less enjoyable (rougher/stiffer)with the new springs?

One thing I have read is a lot of people get more than 2.5” lift. Some report 4-5” of lift. I dont want that much because I am sticking with 35” tires And I dont want to look like i skipped leg day!

Are you running extra weight over stock? the Mojave main sell point imo is the suspension setup. You can easily fit 37s and definitely 35s no issue. Are you just trying to level out?

 

[HorneyBadger]

I did the AEV 2" spacer on my new one and no issues. Rides like stock. Goes everywhere I want to go! If you want to do heavy rock crawling then you probably got the wrong rig! So I think the AEV 2" for your Mohave is good.

 

[Chucker23]

I posted this last night then passed out so haven’t had a chance to look at responses u til now. I appreciate all responses and based on use I am going to just stick with the AEV 2” lift with geo brackets and front and rear adjustable track bars.

I could see the sumo springs in the rear if you tow or load it up heavy regularly, but they'd be a downgrade from the fox front hydraulic bump stops. That saves you $200 right there. The mc lift doesn't come with geo brackets so all you're really gaining is the front track bar. With the 2" AEV kit my front axle is only off by 3/8". It's not even visible to the naked eye. I plan to add the geo brackets but the aev kit rides like stock on mine. I went straight to 37s though.

I thought the sumo springs would be better because we took the Mojave on some sand dune trails that have some up and down mogul type things and when we hit some of the bottoms we were bottoming out pretty hard on the bump stops And thought the sumos wold be less jarring? Was more jarring or harsh than my 2006 LJ with a 6” long arm lift. I would appreciate anymore information you can give me on the hydraulic bump stops And how they are better than he sumos up front. Just trying to learn because I can always hold off on those.

 

[Yman70]

Went with a MC 2.5" GC rides great as a daily driver with 37's. This picture is with 33's.

 

[Viper501]

I did the AEV 2” w/ geo brackets and 315’s. Rides great and does my off road purposes just fine. Pricing was reasonable and installation could easily be a DIY.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I posted this last night then passed out so haven’t had a chance to look at responses u til now. I appreciate all responses and based on use I am going to just stick with the AEV 2” lift with geo brackets and front and rear adjustable track bars.


I thought the sumo springs would be better because we took the Mojave on some sand dune trails that have some up and down mogul type things and when we hit some of the bottoms we were bottoming out pretty hard on the bump stops And thought the sumos wold be less jarring? Was more jarring or harsh than my 2006 LJ with a 6” long arm lift. I would appreciate anymore information you can give me on the hydraulic bump stops And how they are better than he sumos up front. Just trying to learn because I can always hold off on those.

I don't think you were actually bottoming the suspension but the initial impact with the hydraulic bumps can be a bit harsh. At that point you're into the firmest part of the bypass shocks too. In my opinion you want everything to be very firm at that point to prevent actually bottoming the suspension out completely and the truly jarring impact that comes with it. It would be nice if the shocks had a couple more inches of travel so that we could stay in the ride zone and it's nice soft feel under the milder whoops but I wouldn't want to mess with the end travel when you need the extra dampening at speed.

 

[DanW]

They don't claim to have a smoother ride than stock and "better" is subjective. Read AEV's description and you will clearly see that they advertise a more firm and controlled ride. Which is EXACTLY what they deliver. I had my JK in stock form, then with AEV spacers (Ride was same as stock....easy to see why....same springs, shocks plus the spacers) and then much later went to a 2.5" Dualsport lift. It rode exactly as they said....more firmly. But it also handled better and felt more responsive. On top of that, it handled heavy loads better. All of those things are exactly what they described in their advertising.

I'm currently considering AEV vs. Mopar for my Gladiator. It boils down to smooth ride vs. stiffer, more controlled, and better load bearing. I actually like both in certain situations.

Last note: One thing AEV does have that other vendors don't is access to the Chrysler proving ground. I'm not sure if that is the case today, but they did for many years. They are an OEM partner because they do their homework and they pay attention to details. One of their founders was on the suspension design team for the JK. The JL's suspension, including the Gladiator's front suspension, is an evolution of the JK. So I think AEV is a solid choice and from what I see, they deliver exactly what they describe. But I don't see anywhere where they make the claim for a smoother ride and "better" ride is highly subjective. To some, that is stiffer and more controlled. To others, it is smoother.

I've pretty much decided that my Gladiator will be on an AEV lift and will have better load carrying manners, and better highway manners, since I intend to tow heavier loads. My JL will happily remain on the Mopar lift and have that nice, cushy, Tahoe-like ride. Both will remain off-road beasts, in their own right.

As for Metalcloak, they have a great rep. I would look at them with confidence.

 

[chorky]

I posted this last night then passed out so haven’t had a chance to look at responses u til now. I appreciate all responses and based on use I am going to just stick with the AEV 2” lift with geo brackets and front and rear adjustable track bars.


I thought the sumo springs would be better because we took the Mojave on some sand dune trails that have some up and down mogul type things and when we hit some of the bottoms we were bottoming out pretty hard on the bump stops And thought the sumos wold be less jarring? Was more jarring or harsh than my 2006 LJ with a 6” long arm lift. I would appreciate anymore information you can give me on the hydraulic bump stops And how they are better than he sumos up front. Just trying to learn because I can always hold off on those.

Before you spring for those expensive bumpstops, check and see if the teraflex progressive bump stops will suit your needs. I have them combined with the AEV lift and I immediately felt a difference. Much softer hitting the bumps than OE. The bumps are 1.5" longer, but I still kept the bump stop extension in the AEV kit effectively allowing the bump stop to hit sooner to do it's job of getting progressively stiffer the more it is comprised. I have hit some pretty big dips and bumps harder than expected and nothing has been overly jarring so far. They are pretty cheap so even if they dont work it's not a total loss. To my knowledge all of the hydro or air assist bump stops require cutting and welding.

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