Start/stop disabled?

[danimal2000]

Well not sure how but it seems my start/stop is disabled. No taser or anything like that, no warning lights or errors. It just doesn't do it's thing anymore

I added a fusetap to f52 to power a usb in the bed. Added mopar brake controller 2 years ago, and just recently (month ago maybe) repurposed the cigarette lighter harness for a dedicated phone charger/mount. So both of those are on f52. Not sure what that would have to do with ESS but it's the only thing electrically I've done. Battery voltage is normal just over 14 when engine is running.

Anyone see this before? It's there some power draw check thing and I've managed to trick the computer?

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[sharpsicle]

What does the ESS status page say on the EVIC? I think it’s on page 6.

 

[Jeepmonster]

Mine did the exact same thing. Turned out to be a bad crank (main battery). Voltage was fine, but I tested it with a cheap Amazon battery tester- not multimeter, but a tester that applies a small load.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MPXGSGN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[Mr._Bill]

If you scroll through to the ESS screen on the small display, it should tell you why it's not activating.

If the batteries voltage level is not high enough, it won't activate. The high voltage reading while running (14+) shows its trying to charge the batteries. When they are fully charged, it will drop to around 12.9 while running.

The average life expectancy of batteries in the JT is about three years. Some go longer, some die sooner, it depends on how they are treated and the environment.

I would expect to be replacing them in the near future. They should both be replaced at the same time. Fully charge them before installing, and fully disconnect the IBS from the negative post of the Main Battery to reset it when changing them.

If you separate the negative cables and fully charge each battery, and reset the IBS, it should extend the life of the batteries somewhat.

 

[danimal2000]

EVIC just says "start/stop not ready"

I can't recall ever seeing battery below 14 when engine was running, but I don't check it too often. With engine off, battery is 12.8v

But, I'm at 2yrs 5month. So yea I suppose it might just be time. Just odd there's no reason given by the computer and 12.8v would seem normal.

I'll probably have dealer do it with my next oil change, not something I want to risk screwing up with these fancy shmancy computers

 

[Mr._Bill]

How often is it driven? These need at least thirty minutes every few days to overcome the parasitic draw on the batteries.

 

[danimal2000]

How often is it driven? These need at least thirty minutes every few days to overcome the parasitic draw on the batteries.

Daily, 25-30 miles. Probably 90min at least

 

[Lost1wing]

With no faults and everything appear to be working, I would put an amg battery charger on it and reset the IBS. If you are willing and careful you go one step further and charge both batteries separately and reset the IBS. If you charge both batteries at the same time, be sure to connect to the ground above the negative terminal and not to the post itself.

It sounds like you know your way around , so you know to be careful isolating the cables, if you decide to charge the batteries independently.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you are willing and careful you go one step further and charge both batteries separately and reset the IBS.

That's the way I'd go to correct an issue.
I only charge them together for maintenance, etc.
If he does each battery independently, he can also check to see if either is showing bad signs - like will it take a full charge, what does the final voltage settle to after a while and so on.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Battery voltage is normal just over 14 when engine is running.

That's not battery voltage, no matter what the dash says - that's charging system output. It means it's trying to charge batteries when over 14 volts.

I can't recall ever seeing battery below 14 when engine was running, but I don't check it too often. With engine off, battery is 12.8v

Not seeing below 14 during warm or summer weather means it's not getting them fully charged.
The 12.8 will be the combination of both batteries and with surface charge - not a great indicator, but if it's even close to accurate and it's still running 14+ when running, it's trying to charge the battery/batteries, and that means it believes they are low.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Daily, 25-30 miles. Probably 90min at least

That has helped to get a decent life span out of them. The combination of questionable quality OEM batteries and sitting for days at a time takes quite a toll on the useful life.

 

[danimal2000]

it's still running 14+ when running, it's trying to charge the battery/batteries, and that means it believes they are low.

If that's the case, would the EVIC indicate something more than just "start/stop not ready"?
I've seen plenty of reasons on that screen, heat or ac is on, Door open, seatbelt not buckled...seems odd that "battery charging" or something like that isn't displayed.

You and others are probably right and it may just be time for new batteries. It's just confusing that there's no message, error, indicator etc that says so. My initial concern was I screwed something up with the fusetap and my tinkering. Maybe I pull f52 again see of there's any change. Would be a pain to undo my cigarette lighter mod and truly go back because I'd have to pull apart the dash.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Well not sure how but it seems my start/stop is disabled. No taser or anything like that, no warning lights or errors. It just doesn't do it's thing anymore

I added a fusetap to f52 to power a usb in the bed. Added mopar brake controller 2 years ago, and just recently (month ago maybe) repurposed the cigarette lighter harness for a dedicated phone charger/mount. So both of those are on f52. Not sure what that would have to do with ESS but it's the only thing electrically I've done. Battery voltage is normal just over 14 when engine is running.

Anyone see this before? It's there some power draw check thing and I've managed to trick the computer?

I don't mean this in a derogatory manner, but have you checked the fuse tap and make sure it is connected properly, I'm not sure what type you used, but I believe some have a certain way to connect (like the dual fuse type)
Or
Havd you checked both fuses to make surethey are good ? With a meter, not just eyeballing ?

Did it work after the tap and everything was installed ? Or did you just now try to use it and it no longer worked ?

 

[SargeDiesel]

EVIC just says "start/stop not ready"

I can't recall ever seeing battery below 14 when engine was running, but I don't check it too often. With engine off, battery is 12.8v

But, I'm at 2yrs 5month. So yea I suppose it might just be time. Just odd there's no reason given by the computer and 12.8v would seem normal.

I'll probably have dealer do it with my next oil change, not something I want to risk screwing up with these fancy shmancy computers

You can get that message just from running the air conditioner... its a sensitive system. Mine said that the other day, turned air off... bam works, turned air on, same msg again.

I believe there is a laundry list of reasons for that msg.

 

[danimal2000]

I don't mean this in aderogatory manner, but have you checked the fuse tap and make sure it is connected properly, I'm not sure what type you used, but I believe some have a certain way to connect (like the dual fuse type)
Or
Havd you checked both fuses to make surethey are good ? With a meter, not just eyeballing ?

Did it work after the tap and everything was installed ? Or did you just now try to use it and it no longer worked ?

Both fused devices are working so I'm assuming fuses and fuse tap are good.
Honestly I only noticed ESS was disabled the last week or so when I haven't been using the heat. Prior to that I think I just assumed it was because the heat was pumping. Fusetap and such was maybe 3-4 weeks ago

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