Best lift for 37" tires AND towing / overlanding

[donaldj]

Hello all,

Yet Another Lift Kit question... I have a 2022 JT Rubicon. I want to put 37" tires on it. I would like recommendations for a lift kit that will get me roughly 2 - 2.5" lift, AND be robust enough to haul load in the bed and/or trailer.

This is my daily driver but I'm OK with rough ride and a bit of road noise. I regularly haul firewood in a 5x8 utility trailer (about 4000#). Additionally, I overland with the trailer towing an Offgrid Expedition trailer. This thing is only about 3000# fully loaded, but has a tongue weight of about 600#. It gets towed reasonable distances (1000 miles +) on some trips.

What is a reliable lift kit that will get me the height desired for the tires, AND will provide the performance to handle the above?

Thanks!!

Sponsored

 

[darkhorse13]

Synergy or AEV SC... both have only slightly firmer spring rates than OEM and both companies maintain the factory rake; which it sounds like you need for towing. Plus both are advertised lift heights unlike other manufacturers that state a 3in lift and you get closer to 3.5" or even 4" in some instances. Only get the AEV HC springs if you plan on running over 700lb constant load in the rear and have a heavy front bumper/winch combo.

I've had both of these spring setups and can attest to the ride quality and lift height on my Rubicon with 37's.

If your next question is "which shocks" to pick, I'm going to refer you to the wildly different options on this forum search that you'll find.

If you want a rougher ride and lift, then go with Clayton's... it's of popular opinion that these springs are STIFF. I've also had them and won't personally go back. I'm not bashing their quality of product, just quality of ride comfort.

 

[kevman65]

I have the Rock Krawler 3" Ultimate Adventure No Limits.

Have had the bed overloaded a few times since install. It settled to almost level but still rear high.

Have NOT towed with it, so can't answer that part.

It IS a stiff combo, but that's what I wanted, the Rubi was too soft for my tastes stock.

The only things it doesn't come with (besides shocks if you go that route) is the rear carrier bearing spacer or drop kit and bump stop extension kits. I got the RK carrier bearing spacer, which is taller than all the others out there and it came out perfect. I used the Synergy bump stop kits.

Now, if you want a comfortable ride unloaded, I'd say steer away from these stiff set ups, get what you like for unloaded, and add either air bags OR adjustable shocks.

 

[mpboxer]

Make sure to include a regear in your budget. At least 4.88s.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Frankenstein. I do everything the OP wants to do. I’ve referred to 5.13:1, ram 1500 3” lift springs plus spacers in rear, 3.5” hd teraflex front springs, EClik shocks, teraflex control arms, sumo springs rear, fox hydraulic bumps in front, etc. I can load up the bed, hook up the trailer, and still drive 80. I don’t get to 80 quickly, but when I get there, I’m using 8th gear on my auto tranny. From the begining, my build has had the unrealistic, but acheived goal of over landing/tow rig/rock crawler/ daily driver/baja rig. I’m ecstatic.

 

[SeaSharp]

Rock Krawler. I have the 4 link in the rear one and she's stretchy!

 

[MrT]

Clayton, not stiff imho it just doesn't ride like a marshmallow. I have 3.5" with 37's 2.5" should work and you can add a spacer if needed.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Clayton kits come with triple rate rear springs that do a nice job holding up with heavy loads but still ride nice when not loaded.

I have a Clayton 2.5" on mine. It has plenty of room for 37" tires. It did give me about 1" more actual lift height. Clayton says that is because they measure their lift heights on a Rubicon (mine isn't a Rubi).

I don't think it rides stiff at all. And I have Bilstein 5100 shocks which are a stiffer shock. Many people who ride in it compliment how smooth it rides.

 

[OldSarge]

I have the Evo 2.5 kit with the King Shocks - full rack, RTT, and even with a full load out it rides well. When not loaded, rides great. As others have said, you’ll want to regear for 37s, I have 5.13s as well. Great combo. Break out the benjis, but you’ll love it. You’ll want some steps too.

 

[iav8]

I went with Clayton 3.5 Overland Plus. I also added an off-road sway bar to the rear for dragging trailers. King shocks. 37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I have a diesel so the regear was different than others, 4.56. Runs great at normal highway cruising speeds. I was going to have the Accuser rear air suspension but we couldn't make it work for the diesel configuration and have the rear tire in the stock location. Honestly, I'm kind of glad it didn't work out.

 

[Idlethunder]

I'm very happy towing on 37s with Clayton's Overland Plus 2.5 lift. Someone above mentioned theirs isn't stiff but doesn't feel like a marshmallow either. That perfectly describes mine too. When towing I’m not usually going more than 100 miles, but the JTR does great. It is also my daily driver, and I have zero complaints. I am also running Falcon SP2 piggyback shocks and I love the way it rides and handles.

 

[PackMule]

I've run AEV on my JK Wrangler, and Clayton 2.5 overland + on my JKRD with 37's, and I trailer a 19' camper, crawl Moab, and did half the Az Peace Trail in it. Here is some compare and contrast.

AEV lifts are designed to work with the factory control arms, and use relocation brackets on the front to maintain proper geometry. They also come with shocks tuned to their spring rates.... typically Bilstein which are quality shocks. As mentioned above, they also have optional HD springs if you are constantly carrying a heavy load (e.g. overlanding). My experience is that they are good quality, and well engineered, but maybe a bit spendy for what you get (e.g. no new control arms). And I felt the Bilsteins were a bit stiff if unloaded on washboards. But it handles loads, and is very stable.

Clayton's Overland+ is a quality full-function lift, with adjustable control arms. The joints on overland+ lift are maintenance free, and very quiet and smooth. They may not have as much articulation as say a RockCrawler lift, but probably more articulation than AEV, and they are fine for DD and trailering. Clayton also has optional HD springs as well if your static weight on the vehicle is going to be near max. On a stock rig (e.g. no winch, no topper, etc). you will get more than the advertised lift, but if loaded you will be closer to the advertised lift.

Clayton does not come with shocks, so the good/bad is that while they may not have a custom tuned solution, you can pick shocks that fit your application... all the way from monotube to remote res. or adjustable. If you go that route I'd research on this forum for guys that have outfitted their rig the way you are targeting, and what they've paired with it. I run Fox 2.5 elite remote reservoir adjustable shocks... I have a diesel and feel Fox didn't have the damping right for that much weight, so I went with a custom tune. Others have used SDi e-clicks and like them, and Falcon adjustables and Bilstein 5100 with Claytons.

Clayton's customer support is top notch as well.

 

[Deadpool392]

Clayton 3.5 overland plus, Bilstein 5160’s with KO2’s in 37. Finished a 7700 mile trip towing my ModBug 12LRK (2000 pounds loaded roughly) and that includes dragging the trailer the whole white rim trail in Canyonlands NP. Over the 7700 miles I averaged 12.8 MPG, I have the stock 4.10 gears. Not an apples to apples comparison, but thought I would add my insight.

 

[ColoradoCantu]

For my overlander, I went with 3in Dobinson lift on their MRR (Mono Reserve Reservoir) 3way adjustable Shocks and Dobinson 200lb+ front springs and 800-1200lb rear springs. Metal Cloak adjustable Control Arms, Metal Cloak adjustable Track Bars and Metal Cloak/Fox steering stabilizer and could not be happier. I've been on the three Moderately difficult trails where I softened the shocks some for a more enjoyable ride like the T33 plane crash site which is all rocks. In the city I stiffen the shocks and feels really grounded. Adding the SmartCap, roof rack, steel bumpers, Winch, rock sliders and off roading tools caused about 2in of sag on the OEM Fox shocks/springs which you can see in my profile pic on 35s compared to pic below after Dobinson/Metal Cloak lift on 37s. The oem suspension with over 60K miles on did not handle that weight very well. No more bobble heading or hitting bump stops on speed bumps, no more lean or swaying when turning at any speed. Most importantly, I didn't lose the ride characteristics of the OEM fox shocks.

 

[WK2JT]

Frankenstein. I do everything the OP wants to do. I’ve referred to 5.13:1, ram 1500 3” lift springs plus spacers in rear, 3.5” hd teraflex front springs, EClik shocks, teraflex control arms, sumo springs rear, fox hydraulic bumps in front, etc. I can load up the bed, hook up the trailer, and still drive 80. I don’t get to 80 quickly, but when I get there, I’m using 8th gear on my auto tranny. From the begining, my build has had the unrealistic, but acheived goal of over landing/tow rig/rock crawler/ daily driver/baja rig. I’m ecstatic.

Does it matter 4x2 or 4x4 or any specific trim level Ram springs? Why did you switch out the JKS fronts?

Sponsored