AEV Dualsport HC vs Clayton overland plus

[Krobarr]

I don't want to derail this thread but Mickey Thompson recommends lower pressures as well. There was a thread recently that someone contacted MT about pressure and was told 29psi. I personally run my 37's at 28psi and with a chalk test there's still a little bit on the side lugs. 35psi is too high IMO.

I could be totally wrong about remembering the pressure I was told, and did tell anyone reading the thread I posted that they should contact MT directly I like did the day I installed them on my truck. I’ve had my diesel 2 years now and traded the Gaser in for it.

Sponsored

 

[Krobarr]

I don't want to derail this thread but Mickey Thompson recommends lower pressures as well. There was a thread recently that someone contacted MT about pressure and was told 29psi. I personally run my 37's at 28psi and with a chalk test there's still a little bit on the side lugs. 35psi is too high IMO.

I appreciate your comment immensely, as the more I think about it, the foggier I feel about the psi I ran! I don know I had to reduce the TPMS sensor setting as it was low enough to say low air on stock! I know the tech said to take into consideration of the different types of builds and added weight.

 

[smlobx]

Is yours a Gaser or Diesel?

Gas

 

[RubiNewbCB]

I did a kind of franken lift with AEV HD springs 3” you can buy them separately from the kit, i used Metal Cloak control arm correction brackets, rock Jock drive shaft drop, metal Cloak rear sway bar links, Mopar front lift sway bar links, MC front bump stops, Teraflex rear Trac bar bracket, Yeti front adjustable Trac bar, running Fox elite performance adjustable 2.5 shocks, and Clayton rear bump stops. I only have 35’s but it rides pretty good way better than i thought, handles weight well.

That's basically what I'm going to do for my JTRD. Thanks for sharing. Nice looking rig.

 

[rEbell8762]

I put together my own lift but I'm using the AEV high capacity diesel specific coils with my ecodiesel Rubicon. With a winch in the front and rebel rack with RTT on the rear I added a 1" spacer to the front and it has a bit of a rake that perfectly levels out when I hook up a trailer or really load the bed up.

Performs great with my TJ behind it.

Empty

Loaded for weekend camp trip

Fully loaded at gcwv

Love this stance… it is exactly how I want mine to sit. My thoughts were HC AEV springs with a spacer. My only concern is if the springs are just too much and ride quality would be rough. Seems like it might be… atleast until I add some additional weight (topper, tent).
Thanks to all who have responded this far!

 

[BlueScapegoat]

Love this stance… it is exactly how I want mine to sit. My thoughts were HC AEV springs with a spacer. My only concern is if the springs are just too much and ride quality would be rough. Seems like it might be… atleast until I add some additional weight (topper, tent).
Thanks to all who have responded this far!

I'm still running the factory fox shocks, I bump stopped and spaced down the shocks so I still maintain factory travel. I've wheeled all over and it's tackled everything just fine. Let's be honest, the limiting factor of the Gladiator wheeling isn't suspension travel so much as the wheelbase and break over angle...

Anyway I wanted to see how the fox shocks would handle the stiffer, higher rate springs. The ride is pretty compliant with the rack and tent on the back. But, I've never driven it without, and I run a full size spare as well. It becomes apparent the shocks are a bit over taxed when I hit big dips in the road at highway speed, they will bounce ounce or twice. Not to say it's uncontrollable, it's absolutely composed. But it has a bit more up and down motion than it probably should and I think that's to do with the shocks just not being equipped to handle the higher capacity springs. In their normal operation of controlling the movement of the axle, they're fine. But when the whole Jeep is subjected to large vertical changes it shows some. But, it's a bounce, not a slam.

 

[Texops]

The main reason i installed the AEV HD springs having the camper shell and everything else in the back + i tow my camper 5000# , 35’s & 4.88 gears.

 

[jc99]

I did a kind of franken lift with AEV HD springs 3” you can buy them separately from the kit, i used Metal Cloak control arm correction brackets, rock Jock drive shaft drop, metal Cloak rear sway bar links, Mopar front lift sway bar links, MC front bump stops, Teraflex rear Trac bar bracket, Yeti front adjustable Trac bar, running Fox elite performance adjustable 2.5 shocks, and Clayton rear bump stops. I only have 35’s but it rides pretty good way better than i thought, handles weight well.

@Texops any chance you could measure the height of your rear AEV springs top to bottom of the spring itself? I have a similar setup to you and am looking to go to heavier duty springs. AEV is one of the options I am thinking of. How much compression do you see on the rear when you add your trailer?

 

[Texops]

I’ll check it out tomorrow it’s already dark

 

[jc99]

I’ll check it out tomorrow it’s already dark

@Texops Was able to get the inside diameter from AEV 5"

 

[2020 SCRAMBLER]

I've had both the Clayton SD 2.5" springs and now the AEV HD springs.

Unless you are running at a minimum 700lb constant load in the rear, I would NOT recommend the HD version of the AEV springs. These springs will give you close to a 2.5" rake front to rear as they are designed to carry a constant load.

I'm now with the AEV HD springs because of the Scout Tuktut camper I am running. The HD springs handle the 850lb constant load with ease and the ride quality is nice.

@darkhorse13 thanks for the above detailed comments about the AEV HC rear coils and comparisons to Clayton and Synergy. Additionally, I was considering Dobinsons and Ironman as they have rear coil springs rated above 1,000#.

The AEV HC coils are rated to 770#, so I was concerned about running them with my AT Summit topper that has a full interior. I’m in the 750-800# range before I add gear or extra water and fuel.

If you are getting good results on these springs carrying a Scout TukTut, then I feel a lot more confident going AEV HC. My guess is with a 2.5” rake and your results AEV’s spring capacity ratings are conservative.

 

[darkhorse13]

@darkhorse13 thanks for the above detailed comments about the AEV HC rear coils and comparisons to Clayton and Synergy. Additionally, I was considering Dobinsons and Ironman as they have rear coil springs rated above 1,000#.

The AEV HC coils are rated to 770#, so I was concerned about running them with my AT Summit topper that has a full interior. I’m in the 750-800# range before I add gear or extra water and fuel.

If you are getting good results on these springs carrying a Scout TukTut, then I feel a lot more confident going AEV HC. My guess is with a 2.5” rake and your results AEV’s spring capacity ratings are conservative.

Yes you will absolutely be fine at the payload range above and the AEV HC coils. AEV's website is a little confusing (open-ended might be a better descriptor) in terms of the spring's total capabilities. I think the 400-700lb quoted numbers are AEV's recommended constant load numbers to "start" running these springs. They don't advertise where you can go from there likely due to legal reasons and following GVWR recommendations. Anything less than a 400lb constant payload with these HC springs is going to give you that massive rake number I mention (over 2")

This pic is at camp with over 12 gal of water and bike rack swung out to the side. You can see that the truck is still very much level. If possible, we typically drive to our destination with little to no water and fill up in town or at a gas station prior to hitting dirt in order to keep payload down.

 

[Sarge502]

I plan on going with AEVs 2.5 dual sport RT. However I won't need to HC springs just the normal ones for my set up. I've been putting it off due to helping purchase another Jeep for my son otherwise I'd had it already. But I'm a big AEV fan (minus their bumpers). I've got the 2 inch spacer lift now and love it. Just want a full out lift with new springs and shocks really is the only reason I'm planning the upgrade. So many good reviews on the dual sport though.

 

[2020 SCRAMBLER]

@darkhorse13 thanks for the above post and the PM too - super helpful!

@Sarge502 funny your comment about AEV’s bumpers…I’m a big fan of their bumpers (but not their pricepoint!). It’s what I initially liked about AEV as I think they look factory and are quite stout…not like many other brands that are stout but have a Lego tacked-on look. In fact, I run an AEV JK bumper on my Gladiator!

 

[Sarge502]

@Sarge502 funny your comment about AEV’s bumpers…I’m a big fan of their bumpers (but not their pricepoint!). It’s what I initially liked about AEV as I think they look factory and are quite stout…not like many other brands that are stout but have a Lego tacked-on look. In fact, I run an AEV JK bumper on my Gladiator!

I agree on most of the aftermarket bumpers being all gawdy and bulky most of which take away from the body lines in my opinion. Which is why I strongly think the steel oem rubicon factory bumper is the best and is why I have it. I do agree that AEV kind of sticks similar to the stock look. However what I don't like about the AEV fronts especially is that they literally take up 85% of the iconic grille.

Sponsored