Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call

[mquetel]

Does anyone know the proper specs or can you share a link for purchasing appropriate sized t-slot nuts for the ALCC's extrusion profile? Thanks in advance!

The dimensions I just pulled from my camper are base width 15mm, slot width 8mm, overall thickness 10mm (4mm lip, 6mm slot height), and no more than 11mm overall length to fit in the entry slots (since all the rails are closed with welded joints at the ends). I don't think an off-the-shelf T-slot nut with these dimensions exists? I think you'd be looking at fabricating some on a mill

I've only used thin hex nuts like this. If one thin hex nut isn't enough strength, you could make a bracket that can use 2-3-4 (exactly like the rear door hinges do). That's an option anyway. You do have to be careful with the length of the screw or bolt that goes into it - the slot depth is only 10mm.

I was able to locate some 8020 t-nuts that work in the ALCC camper rail extrusion. They are of the roll-in variety so they can be inserted anywhere in the slot without requiring access holes. If you have a need for a threaded insert vs a bolt, these will do the trick and should have more holding power than a thin hex nut. While these t-nuts are designed for 15, 30 or 40 series (M8 slots), they can be purchased threaded in 1/4-20, M6 and M8. Links below. I haven't been able to find a 3rd party equivalent so these definitely come with the 8020 tax.

8020 - 13092 - M6 roll-in T-Nut
8020 - 13094 - M8 roll-in T-Nut
8020 - 13096 - 1/4-20 roll-in T-Nut

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[BlackRuby23]

Excuse my language, but the Earth Roamers are effing stupid. They are are overpriced garden ornaments to impress the neighbors. But for anything else, they are actually worse than useless. You really can't take them offroad, they are way too big, top heavy, and due to the weight very fragile. And outside the US they are more than just stupid, they are reclessly proclaiming that there is a one percenter worth robbing who's not just rich, but also very stupid, so an incredibly easy victim.

I love it. I have been saying that since those things first hit the marketplace. Excellent rant.

 

[l3db3tt3r]

Long time lurker, wondering if anyone has seen:
1) rear door made into a hatch?
2) build interior with just seating, bench across the wheel wells with tilting back board, with electronics, diesel heater built into/behind/under that?
3) Gap panels: Ive seen these made into doors, but has anyone made an auxiliary panel with say shore power hookup, Air chuck, water, external solar, etc?

Does anyone have real world experience, long term review of any of the alu-cab style tables?
1) https://www.alu-cab.com/products/alu-cab-interior-drop-down-table
-- I would think this would be a fairly easy DIY project (any examples out there?)
2) https://www.alu-cab.com/products/side-slide-prep-table

Thanks!

 

[cug]

2) build interior with just seating, bench across the wheel wells with tilting back board, with electronics, diesel heater built into/behind/under that?

Mine is more complex than that. If you're interested, there is a full build thread, documenting in fairly fine detail. I do have seating, a higher "kitchen" cabinet with sink, water filter, pump, electrical (for induction cooking), a composting toilet, a 12V oven, Webasto heater. Let me know if you want to know more.

It could easily go around in just seating height though if that's desired. We use a GP Factor setup for most of our electrical (with modifications though) and and the heater is in the interior corner where normally the passenger side rear molle panel is:

The heater unit is inside the camper, the outside plumbing is behind a custom panel which also doubles as a carrier for a Rotopax diesel container:

We've plumbed the heating to a low outlet through a cover panel that also carries some more switches for electrical stuff and the Webasto controller, right side in this photo:

It's a bit hard to see, but the heater is in a very good position there, the Webasto is rated to work upright and we are down to one fuel only: diesel. The truck is a diesel, the heater takes diesel, all our cooking is electric.

Regarding outlets in the filler panels: might be interesting to see whether a full two piston ARB compressor setup in a box fits behind there, but I've never thought about this since we have our's under the passenger seat with outlets on both seat consoles.

 

[cug]

And the outside diesel container:

Yes, we've marked it as diesel.

And yes, it does fit a 2 gallon container as well.

 

[l3db3tt3r]

Thanks for the reply cug, I did follow and enjoy your build series, and how you tackled some of the problems that came up.

For my build, I’m personally more interested in keeping things pretty minimal, not strapping much of anything to the outside, and trying to keep the weight down.

I’ve currently kept things pretty modular.
I have a decent backpacking kit, and car camping cook setup for most general things.
Dometic faucet, and 2x jugs, cx35 fridge.

I’ve got a briefcase Chinese diesel heater; I’m still trying to find the right sized insulated hose/duct to port it from my roof rack into the tent… I’d much rather just get it installed inside though, for ease of setup/tear down and use.

For electric, I went with the Ecoflow ecosystem. Delta 3 Plus, Delta River, Dc/Dc (800w) charger, 1x 400w and, 2x 220 portable solar panels. It’s kind of overkill for the 12v fridge and camper lights it needs to power. Probably add an electric kettle at some point. Will likely get Starlink when we hit the road full time.

I picked up a good bit of this up over the holiday sales. Still waiting on the rear seat delete kit from https://americanadventurelab.com/pr...at-delete-bundle-oem-sub-backwall-compatible/

also still researching a few things; rear view mirror + camera setup; air compressor options, bumpers/wench…

I should probably just sketch a couple of these ideas I have out to share, probably easier then trying to put it into words.

 

[Lowelife Explorer]

Please keep the camper furniture builds coming ,have seen a few including Cugs, that I like a lot, but need to come up with an option for boondocking in the back with top down, the more ideas the better, goose is not cheap, and shw has a cool option...I am 5'9 so not tall, but also a pain to jam into the back inconspicuously at rest stops etc....my travels are mainly runs down from Boston to Harkers Island, and Florida, but summer of 2025 looking to do the Dempster, thanks

 

[caryt]

I did a Whale heater for many reasons..efficiency and smell are the main reasons plus dealing with diesel..even though I have a Diesel.

I revamped the Tacoma Goose Gear cabinets to fit how I wanted and flopped the big drawer on top and remaking the small drawer face into a tilt down to close off where the heater is but allow access. Thermostat went into a Goose gear panel that the canopy came with.

115v 4 plug comercial hospital grade plug plate I tied to the Redarc 3000w inverter. Have a extra one if anyone is interested pm me.

 

[cug]

efficiency and smell are the main reasons plus dealing with diesel

What do you mean by efficiency? Just curious.

From our perspective: the Webasto has taken less than 0.3L in overnight "keep resonably warm" situations in Alaska when outside temps dropped to 0 to 5C (32 to 41F). Dealing with diesel hasn't been an issue even though we do use a Rotopax for our heater diesel. There has so far never been any smell from the heater exhaust in our tent, but we adjusted our venting and exhaust location accordingly. So, personally I'm super happy with a diesel Webasto, although next time I might want to hook it up the main tank for even more convenience. We used a 1 gallon container for Alaska, in the future, I'd just use the 2 gallon Rotopax.

 

[caryt]

heater has varable btu
Heat Input [BTU/hr] 4,000 - 9,400 BTU
Consumption [oz/hr] 2.9 - 7.0

CFM is 88

Propane for me is $1.25-1.30 a pound so cheaper. NO stink outside..so when going out or warming up the interior outside doesn't smell. Plus dead quite.

Diesel heaters require lots of maintence, propane just about never..I have diesel heaters in my MH and they are great but lots of maintence and just smells outside.

I'm a retired HVAC design build contractor so my requirements and needs are different.

 

[cug]

Diesel heaters require lots of maintence, propane just about never..I have diesel heaters in my MH and they are great but lots of maintence and just smells outside.

I see. Agreed on the smell outside. On the maintenance side, maybe I'm doing something wrong, but haven't needed any maintenance for my heaters. One of them has been in sporadic use for three years now, one just six months.

 

[JeeperFIN]

Joining soon to the club
Bought week ago used Canopy Camper from Sweden, install kit also arrived at last week. Maybe in this week i have time to install the camper.
Previous setup was the 3.1 tent + contour canopy.

 

[Gee]

Welcome!!

 

[mquetel]

Joining soon to the club
Bought week ago used Canopy Camper from Sweden, install kit also arrived at last week. Maybe in this week i have time to install the camper.
Previous setup was the 3.1 tent + contour canopy.

Congratulations!

 

[JeeperFIN]

Today i made some progress with installing

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