Going to 37s eventually, What steering upgrades are mandatory?

[Zachanadandy]

I started on 37's, with just a SteerSmarts tie-rod and Fox dampener. It worked well, but I had issues in situations where you have a bunch of weight on the front end, aired down, with the diff locked, the stock power steering would not turn the wheels unless I was rolling (going down super tight, steep switchbacks on a shelf). When you're only 3' away from a sheer edge, it's not a good situation. Think Austin Powers, but with a much higher heart rate.
It's probably overboard, but I went the buy-once-cry-once full PSC hydro assist, Reed knuckles and MetalCloak baller joints. Absolutely a pricey, but a solid setup that simply works and drives amazingly well for the setup.
I later went to 38's on beadlocks, and even aired down to 6 psi, I have no issues turning.

Tight switchbacks, downhill, with the diff locked? You didn't need hydo assist you needed to understand how lockers and steering work. Locking the diffs is the last thing you want to do in tight turns even if you have the power to force the wheels to turn via a hydraulic ram. You still won't turn as tight as you easily could with the locker off and no hydro. The tires need to turn at different speeds in a turn. The tighter the turn the greater the difference. The locker allows no difference in wheel speed. I feel sorry for your u-joints too.

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[Jaydebe]

Rear track bar isnt required for fitting a 37" tire under the bed. It really depends on the tire brand and model. My 37's fit underneath without any modification and I've placed a camera underneath and monitored for rubbing while doing multiple flexing off-roading opportunities.

This depends on the 37s. I had Grabber ATXs mounted on Methods 17x8.5 and did not need any mods to my factory JTR to run them or stow the 37 in the spare well. Ran them for 30k w/o issue; mild off-roading, stuff like Broken Arrow, and stuff around East Phoenix area; some VA and WV forest stuff.

From what I remember, the Grabber was similar to KO2s in weight and size; measuring about 36.5".

I did find it easier to keep the spare psi at 30 psi rather than the 35-36psi I ran my rolling tires.

 

[Jteakus]

Can't flip steering with 2.5", at least I wouldn't think so.
I'm also runnnig Metalcloak's steering box sector brace.
https://metalcloak.com/sector-shaft-brace-jl-wrangler-jt-gladiator.html

 

[bleda2002]

No need to flip at 2.5 inches of height will just cause more problems than what it will fix. I've run 37s, then 39s, and now 38s over the last for years and hands down the Bst mod I did for 37s+ was 5.13s. So much better having torque down low.

What parts do you NEED? Nothing really the stock stuff will work until it doesn't which could be a long long time from now. If you have cash to burn you can go crazy and do all kinds of shit, but I'm still on stock ball joints that haven't died yet despite fairly heavy wheeling. I did swap the track bar for a MC due to lift, and did 2.5 ton aluminum steering which tightened things up. I have mc ball joints and Reid knuckles on the shelf for over a year, no need for them yet. Can drive at 85 same as 65, tows stably and off road great.

 

[Alpine Warthog]

No need to flip at 2.5 inches of height will just cause more problems than what it will fix. I've run 37s, then 39s, and now 38s over the last for years and hands down the Bst mod I did for 37s+ was 5.13s. So much better having torque down low.

What parts do you NEED? Nothing really the stock stuff will work until it doesn't which could be a long long time from now. If you have cash to burn you can go crazy and do all kinds of shit, but I'm still on stock ball joints that haven't died yet despite fairly heavy wheeling. I did swap the track bar for a MC due to lift, and did 2.5 ton aluminum steering which tightened things up. I have mc ball joints and Reid knuckles on the shelf for over a year, no need for them yet. Can drive at 85 same as 65, tows stably and off road great.

I've got a little time to plan my build because I won't be doing this until it is time to replace the tires. I want to install the gears (5.13?), rear locker and upgrade the knuckles/ball joints together. I will probably upgrade the steering in the spring since I know I've got play in the steering box tie rod already. Looking at the CavFab 2.5 ton steering.

The ultimate goal for this build is a mild but bullet proof truck. (if you can call 37's mild) I do not want to do trail repairs anymore. I've embarrassed myself enough on the trail with the XJ, LOL

 

[Alpine Warthog]

Can't flip steering with 2.5", at least I wouldn't think so.
I'm also runnnig Metalcloak's steering box sector brace.
https://metalcloak.com/sector-shaft-brace-jl-wrangler-jt-gladiator.html

Good idea, I will be doing this as well!

 

[bleda2002]

I've got a little time to plan my build because I won't be doing this until it is time to replace the tires. I want to install the gears (5.13?), rear locker and upgrade the knuckles/ball joints together. I will probably upgrade the steering in the spring since I know I've got play in the steering box tie rod already. Looking at the CavFab 2.5 ton steering.

The ultimate goal for this build is a mild but bullet proof truck. (if you can call 37's mild) I do not want to do trail repairs anymore. I've embarrassed myself enough on the trail with the XJ, LOL

Truss the axles then, knuckles and ball joints are only needed if you plan on going really fast over whoopy shit, but trussed axle is cheap and it's the main fail point.

 

[Outside Reality Check]

I've been really happy with Steer Smarts, ( track bar, sector shaft brace, drag link with attenuator, tie rod). Falcon adjustable stabilizer. Clayton rear track bar, ( the bend ). I sleep better knowing the steering is way beefier than stock. Improved road manners for daily driving too.

 

[Alpine Warthog]

Truss the axles then, knuckles and ball joints are only needed if you plan on going really fast over whoopy shit, but trussed axle is cheap and it's the main fail point.

What part fails most? I saw some arctec trusses for the ends connecting to the knuckles but wasn't sure that was a need.

 

[bleda2002]

What part fails most? I saw some arctec trusses for the ends connecting to the knuckles but wasn't sure that was a need.

The part that fails the most is the axle itself where the tube for the fad is plug welded. That's where you see all the taco'd axles. I went ahead and did the C gussets and the axle truss, got it welded on locally for 150 bucks.

 

[Zachanadandy]

The part that fails the most is the axle itself where the tube for the fad is plug welded. That's where you see all the taco'd axles. I went ahead and did the C gussets and the axle truss, got it welded on locally for 150 bucks.

I don't think I'd agree that snapping the axle in half is the most common failure at all. Ball joints with plastic liners are number 1 by a long way. Even if we are talking about actual breakage I've seen about as many aluminium knuckles break as axle housings. And neither of those are common. If abused those 2 would be the points that would break. Personally I wouldn't put steel knuckle money into building the stock front axle so there would be nothing gained strength wise adding the truss. You see people go full build on the stock 44 and it's still marginal for big tires if you're going to drive it hard. How much do trussed, geared, locker added, chromoly shafts, and steel knuckles builds cost? $4-5k where you could have bought a complete UD 44 with 1/2" wall tubes and no fad casting, HD ball joints, geared however you want, etc for the same money. Sell the complete factory axle for $1k easily if not $2k and you're money and strength ahead in my opinion.

 

[GI Grandpa]

Bottom Line Up Front: What Steering upgrades are needed for 37s balancing offroad capability with road manners?

Long version: Driving a 21 Sport (sport S? who knows ) with a 2.5 inch Skyjacker lift. This is going to be road tripped, hitting trails when I can and driving on to the next spot. I want to spend two weeks going from PA to TX and back.
I'm going to go to 37s at next tire replacement. I will be regearing, so before the tires and gears....
-What steering upgrades are needed?
-When do I need steel knuckles? Flipped steering or not? Options?
-CAN I flip the steering at only 2.5 inches? I can't find knuckles that don't flip the steering
-When do I upgrade the rear track bar?
-What does the steering box need?

For gears, I would go with 4.88s if you're going with 37's top regain your on-road performance and mileage. As for steering, I just did the Steer Smart Yeti set up and so far, I have been very happy. Steering is tight, no wandering issues, etc. I am only running 35's. If you're not doing any hard trails, rock crawling, etc., I think you'll be fine without upgrading to a PSC set up.

 

[Gizmo]

Currie makes high steer knuckles that work with 2.5” of lift. I have them but not installed yet. For some reason JT people seem to overlook Currie Rock Jock.

 

[Alpine Warthog]

For gears, I would go with 4.88s if you're going with 37's top regain your on-road performance and mileage. As for steering, I just did the Steer Smart Yeti set up and so far, I have been very happy. Steering is tight, no wandering issues, etc. I am only running 35's. If you're not doing any hard trails, rock crawling, etc., I think you'll be fine without upgrading to a PSC set up.

4.88s... good point. I've got 4.56s in my XJ running 35s...

 

[Alpine Warthog]

Currie makes high steer knuckles that work with 2.5” of lift. I have them but not installed yet. For some reason JT people seem to overlook Currie Rock Jock.

Let me know once you do that. I'd like to see how it works out.

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