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Cold start rough idle and sometimes 303 code

ShadowsPapa

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Hoist

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Been busy trying to sort out my garage for more “working” room. Going from 4 car to two car sucks. I digress……
this is what the new plug looked like when I pulled it out. Only a few miles on it.

Jeep Gladiator Cold start rough idle and sometimes 303 code IMG_0006
 
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Hoist

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Going to put the plug back in and swap coils.
I have a 5610 which I updated and it added some more features. Obviously I can see some numbers for fuel etc but I don’t have anything to reference to know if it’s good or bad other than not enough to trip a code.
 
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Hoist

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So swapped coils and put a new plug in nbr 1 while I was there and water lines loosened. Started smooth and ran fine zero codes.
I obviously haven’t fixed anything unless the Oreillys coil was not right even with a plug change.
im half a tank of fuel so I want to add some fuel injector cleaner and premium to it it while im at it. Need to do a test drive anyways.
i also attached a pic of the number 1 cylinder.

Jeep Gladiator Cold start rough idle and sometimes 303 code imag
 

ShadowsPapa

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add some fuel injector cleaner and premium to it it while im at it.
Fuel injector cleaner isn't a bad idea depending on what fuel you buy.
Premium? To me that's always a "why"? because octane doesn't do anything other than prevent detonation, which you don't have.
 

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Fuel injector cleaner isn't a bad idea depending on what fuel you buy.
Premium? To me that's always a "why"? because octane doesn't do anything other than prevent detonation, which you don't have.
Some brands have additional detergent/additives in their premium grade fuel.
 

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I don’t like installing new aftermarket parts on to fix a problem. I like swapping to see if a fault follows. Once you figure out if a part is bad, then you replace it with what ever.

I tried an 8 pack of Amazon coils on my Ford. Ran like crap and found 1 coil was bad. Swapped it with an old oem and that is the way it is today. Not all new parts are good, so don't assume so.
 
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Nbr 5 cylinder

Jeep Gladiator Cold start rough idle and sometimes 303 code IMG_0009
 

ShadowsPapa

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Some brands have additional detergent/additives in their premium grade fuel.
Unlikely these days with top tier fuels. That's from the 1960s and 70s. Even the auto rags say today, it's just a waste of money, they are so equal. It used to be marketing to convince you to spend extra for "premium" fuel -:the term referred as much to additives back then as the octane. Today, not really.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I don’t like installing new aftermarket parts on to fix a problem. I like swapping to see if a fault follows. Once you figure out if a part is bad, then you replace it with what ever.

I tried an 8 pack of Amazon coils on my Ford. Ran like crap and found 1 coil was bad. Swapped it with an old oem and that is the way it is today. Not all new parts are good, so don't assume so.
I'd never install coils and such from a parts store. Coil replacements are especially risky. Some things I will, others, no.
 

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MT1

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Shell is open about their "Shell V-Power® NiTRO+" having more detergents: "Shell Regular: Also contains detergents as part of Shell’s participation in the Top Tier Detergent Gasoline program, but at lower concentrations compared to V-Power NiTRO+"

Anyway, just saying that while the PUG does not benefit from 91+ for normal usage, I can see spending an extra $4.00 for a half tank (CA diff. in price between 87 and 91 X 10 gal.), in addition to adding injector cleaner. I

@Hoist has the battery voltage, when checked after the truck has been off for several hours, remained above 12.4? Just wondering if the root cause was low voltage, and is no longer present.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Shell is open about their "Shell V-Power® NiTRO+" having more detergents: "Shell Regular: Also contains detergents as part of Shell’s participation in the Top Tier Detergent Gasoline program, but at lower concentrations compared to V-Power NiTRO+"

Anyway, just saying that while the PUG does not benefit from 91+ for normal usage, I can see spending an extra $4.00 for a half tank (CA diff. in price between 87 and 91 X 10 gal.), in addition to adding injector cleaner. I

@Hoist has the battery voltage, when checked after the truck has been off for several hours, remained above 12.4? Just wondering if the root cause was low voltage, and is no longer present.
Yeah, if you go to specific stations and do the homework. But how many do? How many assume "premium is better" and pump it in, while it may be no better than "regular".
So if he uses Shell fuel........... (hard to find around here)


12.4 is low. If the batteries are fully charged and in good shape, it should be well over 12.4. I consider that the lowest I'll accept.
It should hold at least 12.6 if they were fully charged.
It will be interesting to see how that part shakes out.
 

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Does that inspection camera have a way to save to a source file that can be uploaded in native format? That picture of a picture is losing a lot of detail and wash out.
 

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Going to put the plug back in and swap coils.
I have a 5610 which I updated and it added some more features. Obviously I can see some numbers for fuel etc but I don’t have anything to reference to know if it’s good or bad other than not enough to trip a code.
Good idea, I would swap the coil to one cylinder and the swap the injector to a different cylinder. Pulling the intake is not required to swap injectors on the right bank, there is enough flex in the fuel line connecting the two fuel rails to allow the injectors to be removed. I use compressed air to blow everything loose (such as sand or grime) on the engine off before removing the injectors or upper intake manifold. If it was a vacuum leak, it normally will cause the engine idle speed to increase. Compare target idle speed with actual idle speed, if it varies more than 15 or 20 rpms, suspect a vacuum leak. Also would cause the affected bank to show different fuel trim adaptives.
 
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Went for an hour drive, topped off the tank and added injector cleaner. So far so good. I still wouldn’t necessarily go on a trip with it just yet.
I haven’t had issues with aftermarket in the past. Having said that, I wouldn’t normally use an Oreillys or Autozone brand, it’s just what was available last Sunday. As it is, I put the factory coil back in.
when I do replace the coils, it will be with OEM to avoid issues.
Ok, heading out again to see what happens.
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