What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[MMMII]

Installed a Smitty it tent

Is that the 2783 or the 2883?

Would you mind throwing up a pic with it closed?

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[MMMII]

Installed my console organizer and my fire extinguisher holder.

Then I looked up the max storage temp for my Lowe’s auto fire extinguisher and it says 120 degrees.

Well.....living in Vegas I park outside a lot in the summer. There are always yahoos leaving their pets, or worse kids, in the car where they die of heatstroke so I started looking for info and found that the direct sun on a dashboard can get as hot as 157 degrees.

My windows came lightly tinted from the dealer and my hothead headliner is on its way but paranoia set in about the the thing exploding and a hole in the side of my JT......so I strapped the whole thing to the jack under the seat to keep it in further from the hot roof and away from the sun.

Apologies if this should be its own thread but am I being overly cautious?

 

[DawgBox]

Nothing directly to DawgBox, but got a Dometic CFX 3 75 DZ. Dawg simple to set up and is busy keeping the beerskies nice and cold! Testing for the next 3 weeks and off to CO with breakfast burritos, some nice sammies, roasted chicken legs and maybe some Marco meals from OverlandDX Now, if I can just find a cover for it....

 

[Bruce]

I made my Overland taller with a Rubi take off suspension and 1.5" leveling kit. I also replaced the front sway bar links with JKS quicker disconnects. The suspension came with slightly longer lower front control arms. I might try to get those on tomorrow. The Jeep looks awesome and drives great. The ride is noticeably better.

 

[HikerBob]

Installed a Smitty it tent

That is an amazing set up! It’s like Swiss Family Robinson on a Gladiator. Way cool!

 

[Moab]

Installed my console organizer and my fire extinguisher holder.

Then I looked up the max storage temp for my Lowe’s auto fire extinguisher and it says 120 degrees.

Well.....living in Vegas I park outside a lot in the summer. There are always yahoos leaving their pets, or worse kids, in the car where they die of heatstroke so I started looking for info and found that the direct sun on a dashboard can get as hot as 157 degrees.

My windows came lightly tinted from the dealer and my hothead headliner is on its way but paranoia set in about the the thing exploding and a hole in the side of my JT......so I strapped the whole thing to the jack under the seat to keep it in further from the hot roof and away from the sun.

Apologies if this should be its own thread but am I being overly cautious?

Nothing wrong with being cautious.
Me being me... in the summer windows are open a bit for venting and a sunshade over the dash. You are in a hot environment but I’ve never seen a extinguisher blow because of temps.
I’ve been playing with cars for 30 yrs,
never seen or heard stories of this.
But I’m not a firefighter, they could shed more lite on this. Anyway nice additions, I did a similar set up

 

[LostWoods]

Installed my console organizer and my fire extinguisher holder.

Then I looked up the max storage temp for my Lowe’s auto fire extinguisher and it says 120 degrees.

Well.....living in Vegas I park outside a lot in the summer. There are always yahoos leaving their pets, or worse kids, in the car where they die of heatstroke so I started looking for info and found that the direct sun on a dashboard can get as hot as 157 degrees.

My windows came lightly tinted from the dealer and my hothead headliner is on its way but paranoia set in about the the thing exploding and a hole in the side of my JT......so I strapped the whole thing to the jack under the seat to keep it in further from the hot roof and away from the sun.

Apologies if this should be its own thread but am I being overly cautious?

UL standard I want to say is 165 or 175 degrees... something like that. You should be fine as long as you bought a good one (which will actually be UL certified) and it's not overcharged. Only issue with high temps is holding on to it and shorter run time due to the higher pressure. That said, the high temps you see inside a vehicle in Phoenix and LV are air or surface temps in direct sun and air is really quick to change temp in a closed environment... the temp in your fire extinguisher will change slower and I doubt it's possible to hit those temps.

Also ordering one of those organizers... been looking for a solution there and that one looks good.

 

[LordEnzo]

Went to moms property and got stuck, had to test the limits. Sport S max tow. yea, she pulled me out

 

[MoparMadness]

Added some Hothead Headliners along with Sound Assassin strips. Parked in the sun for a few hours after the install and I was impressed with how cool it stayed inside when I got back in.

 

[LostWoods]

Just finished chopping up my Mopar aux switch harness... Top is all the excess, bottom is what's going into the truck probably tommorow and has basically been turned into 4 trigger signals or at least I seriously hope so

I'm a little uneasy that the aftermarket harness appears to be all 12awg for the loads while the OEM version that comes on the truck seems to be 10awg (40A) and 14awg (15A). The load power leads to the relay block are definitely larger than the load wires which is never good and if you do the math, 40A@12awg has a pretty short run limit before you start dropping voltage. I also hate that they blow 5' of wire to cross the relay box over the engine.

I've researched this as much as I can it seems to just be a smart head unit triggering dumb switch circuits. I've figured out almost all the original part numbers and the issues are that I can't get the relay box pins (not metri 630 and the vendor wouldn't tell me) and the switch unit harness-side pins are not to be found outside of a full reel of several thousand pins (also $$$) and a few months. It's a drag because there's two extra slots in the relay box and the only thing limiting this system from being a 40A x 4 system is the wiring and potentially a relay box that can't handle more than 110A continuous. With aftermarket parts, it's completely doable and I'm fairly certain that if the switch pins were available, I could fab up harnesses for whatever people wanted while leaving the OEM harness intact.

So I chopped it. It's now just the 7 pins off the switch panel which are 12v hot, ground, the orange kick panel wire (never leaves the interior)_, and the 4 load triggers. Tapping my interior fuse block for the switch unit power and the ground at the kick panel, that means I'm only running 4 wires out through the firewall which is perfect for my needs. That fuse block next is next to the glove box and will power all my interior loads (which are all 12v hot circuits making switches a waste) so I don't need interior switches. This lets me run fewer through the firewall and I won't have wires lying around unused.

So this will end up with two 30A and likely two 2x30A circuits daisy-chained coil side to feed larger split loads like dual compressors and forward light bars. Or so I hope... plan on having this installed tomorrow and then I'll test the 4 trigger leads for voltage. If they work, I'm going to be ecstatic and if not, I just wasted $250.

 

[Shady19]

Long time lurker first time poster.

First off thanks to everyone on this site as you have been a huge help to this first time Jeep owner. This thing has been an absolute blast and the kids love it almost as much as I do.

Almost had this Sport S for a year now and I’m finding that the list of to do’s never ends.

So far I have installed:
Some grab handles
Mopar all weather mats
Mopar Hard Tri Fold
N-Fab steps
Bestop Sunrider
Eag Safari Doors
Kenda Klever 35/10.5 R17 tires

Thanks for all the ideas and can’t wait to see what’s next, hopefully that includes finding some trails here in Georgia and getting this thing dirty.

 

[Brfertig [HACKED ACCOUNT]]

Just finished chopping up my Mopar aux switch harness... Top is all the excess, bottom is what's going into the truck probably tommorow and has basically been turned into 4 trigger signals or at least I seriously hope so

I'm a little uneasy that the aftermarket harness appears to be all 12awg for the loads while the OEM version that comes on the truck seems to be 10awg (40A) and 14awg (15A). The load power leads to the relay block are definitely larger than the load wires which is never good and if you do the math, 40A@12awg has a pretty short run limit before you start dropping voltage. I also hate that they blow 5' of wire to cross the relay box over the engine.

I've researched this as much as I can it seems to just be a smart head unit triggering dumb switch circuits. I've figured out almost all the original part numbers and the issues are that I can't get the relay box pins (not metri 630 and the vendor wouldn't tell me) and the switch unit harness-side pins are not to be found outside of a full reel of several thousand pins (also $$$) and a few months. It's a drag because there's two extra slots in the relay box and the only thing limiting this system from being a 40A x 4 system is the wiring and potentially a relay box that can't handle more than 110A continuous. With aftermarket parts, it's completely doable and I'm fairly certain that if the switch pins were available, I could fab up harnesses for whatever people wanted while leaving the OEM harness intact.

So I chopped it. It's now just the 7 pins off the switch panel which are 12v hot, ground, the orange kick panel wire (never leaves the interior)_, and the 4 load triggers. Tapping my interior fuse block for the switch unit power and the ground at the kick panel, that means I'm only running 4 wires out through the firewall which is perfect for my needs. That fuse block next is next to the glove box and will power all my interior loads (which are all 12v hot circuits making switches a waste) so I don't need interior switches. This lets me run fewer through the firewall and I won't have wires lying around unused.

So this will end up with two 30A and likely two 2x30A circuits daisy-chained coil side to feed larger split loads like dual compressors and forward light bars. Or so I hope... plan on having this installed tomorrow and then I'll test the 4 trigger leads for voltage. If they work, I'm going to be ecstatic and if not, I just wasted $250.

Are you saying you are just controlling the switches from the head unit only? Where is the can bus logic circuit plug into in order for the head unit to control the relay without the switches?

Good idea btw

 

[jlc64uk]

New tires. Finally.

Thats so funny cause I knew before your post made it here.
My daughter took a pic of you driving down I-64 to show me your JT when she got home this afternoon from Lexington.

 

[LostWoods]

Are you saying you are just controlling the switches from the head unit only? Where is the can bus logic circuit plug into in order for the head unit to control the relay without the switches?

Good idea btw

The switches work all the same, I can just build the circuits they switch how I want to meet my needs. The load circuits wouldn’t care if it’s the mopar switches or traditional switches so if I have it right, they can be modified just like traditional switches.

 

[Brfertig [HACKED ACCOUNT]]

The switches work all the same, I can just build the circuits they switch how I want to meet my needs. The load circuits wouldn’t care if it’s the mopar switches or traditional switches so if I have it right, they can be modified just like traditional switches.

Well you just gave me the idea to forego the physical switches and just stick to the logic in the head unit. What are the part numbers you used?

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