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Rubicon to Sport S suspension swap

NC_Overland

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Couldn't agree more!
The stock Sport S suspension was soo bouncy it was killing my back. Those fox shocks are a huge upgrade!
Based on what you said about the ride killing your back, the Overland vs the Sport shocks and springs might be different. Mine rode like a dream, it had a super soft ride, but it was too floaty over bumps and the back had a constant bounce to it. Not like rough, it was just always twitchy and moving when the front was much more stable and planted. My Overland floated down the road like my old 65 Coupe DeVille (other than the bed bounce part). It wasn't for me. It still has a soft ride, but its more stable and controlled now.
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Jack'D

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Based on what you said about the ride killing your back
lol I told people diving my truck was like going down the road in a circus bounce house!
 

danielspivey

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I have a Max tow with Rubi Springs (front only) & 3/4" daystar front spacers... There was only about 1/2" of rake back to front. So yeah its basically leveled. 1.5" in the front & I think you would have some reverse rake & that would be no bueno.
I have a max tow and I’m about to throw on the iron Rock 2” spacer lift and put the front rubi springs on. Do you remember which front rubi spring goes on which side ?
 

ShadowsPapa

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I purchased a Rubicon take off suspension yesterday for my Overland (automatic with tow package). I put the Rubicon Fox shocks on stock overland springs on it yesterday. It's a pretty nice set up. It still rides great, but it controls the ride a lot better and eliminates the bounciness from the rear when you go over bumps. Overall, it feels a lot more solid and less floaty. I have the full rubicon take off suspension, and eventually, I'll probably put the Rubicon springs on it, but its a huge improvement for now. I don't need any lift on mine, I only have 33.5" A/Ts on mine. I'll probably just do it because I can and have the parts and 3/4-1" higher wouldn't be a bad thing.

Those shocks are super stiff and very hard to compress by hand, I'd highly recommend jacking your Jeep up and putting jack stands under the frame so the suspension will droop. I should have done that from the beginning. The back two kicked my butt doing it with the Jeep on the ground. The front was way easier to do when I did it the correct way. I couldn't get a jack under it to compress the shocks by hand and I had to manually compress them and needed a second set of hands to slide the bolt through while it was compressed. I was able to do the first one myself. My arms were too tired to do it on my own for the second rear shock. They are substantially stiffer than my stock Overland shocks, which is why the ride is way more controlled.

edit: I've thought about just doing the front Rubicon springs to take some of the rake out of it, but I'm not sure if it would upset the ride balance F/R if I only did the front springs. I don't want it to be stiffer up front than the rear. They don't offer max tow on the Overland, so its the regular tow package with the 6k lb tow rating.
I have a problem with my Overland dropping a lot in the rear with a load at the end. Maybe you saw my "rake test" where I loaded a platform with some weight and showed how badly the rear sagged. I need to tow a car hauler - 1500 pound trailer with a 3200 pound car on it. At 10$ tongue weight, that would make the headlights point to the trees as if I was raccoon hunting.
I had 300 pounds of bagged concrete in the back for a few days a couple of weeks ago - I noticed the rear was really mushy! And the front was more floaty - not like the loose steering feel, but just what little road feel the Overland had was gone. I didn't like the bouncy rear, either. It really bounced a lot on bumps and humps in the road.
A while back I bought "Rubicon take-offs" - springs and shocks AND a pair of Sport S max tow rear springs. I planned on using the Rubicon shocks all around, and putting max tow springs on the rear and Rubicon springs on the front. I don't really want to carry MORE weight - the rating of the truck should do me ok - but the Overland just didn't seem to handle the weight well.
We love the ride - it's the most comfortable truck I've ever driven. I could - and have - driven it all day and not felt worn out or my back hurting after a long trip.
My goal - strictly get rid of the bouncy, give it more road feel, take the floaty feel away, and stop the rear from sagging so badly when it's loaded down.

I REALLY wanted to do a before and after test and write-up but with all of the car shows cancelled, and there's still no brake controller............ doubtful I'll be loading up a car and taking it anywhere with this truck this year! I could simply go ahead and swap the parts but I really wanted to show the differences.
I never for a minute thought when I bought this truck it would become my "car" or "daily driver" but that's just what's happened - my other stuff SITS! I've not driven my 04 WJ in months - it just sits now.
I guess since the roof is off - if it rains I'll be taking the WJ, but until then............
 

ShadowsPapa

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I have a max tow and I’m about to throw on the iron Rock 2” spacer lift and put the front rubi springs on. Do you remember which front rubi spring goes on which side ?
Normally the higher part number is on the right side.
Two examples of JT Rubicon spring numbers (both are rear spring numbers) -

450/451 - 451 would go on the right
449/450 - 450 on the right
 

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Jeeperjamie

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I purchased a Rubicon take off suspension yesterday for my Overland (automatic with tow package). I put the Rubicon Fox shocks on stock overland springs on it yesterday. It's a pretty nice set up. It still rides great, but it controls the ride a lot better and eliminates the bounciness from the rear when you go over bumps. Overall, it feels a lot more solid and less floaty. I have the full rubicon take off suspension, and eventually, I'll probably put the Rubicon springs on it, but its a huge improvement for now. I don't need any lift on mine, I only have 33.5" A/Ts on mine. I'll probably just do it because I can and have the parts and 3/4-1" higher wouldn't be a bad thing.

Those shocks are super stiff and very hard to compress by hand, I'd highly recommend jacking your Jeep up and putting jack stands under the frame so the suspension will droop. I should have done that from the beginning. The back two kicked my butt doing it with the Jeep on the ground. The front was way easier to do when I did it the correct way. I couldn't get a jack under it to compress the shocks by hand and I had to manually compress them and needed a second set of hands to slide the bolt through while it was compressed. I was able to do the first one myself. My arms were too tired to do it on my own for the second rear shock. They are substantially stiffer than my stock Overland shocks, which is why the ride is way more controlled.

edit: I've thought about just doing the front Rubicon springs to take some of the rake out of it, but I'm not sure if it would upset the ride balance F/R if I only did the front springs. I don't want it to be stiffer up front than the rear. They don't offer max tow on the Overland, so its the regular tow package with the 6k lb tow rating.
I wonder if there's a difference in the overland shocks compared to Max Tow shocks. I've considered buying a set of Fox take offs but not sure how much of a difference it would make on my ride quality.
 

whiteglad

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As noted above, just saying "Rubi springs" is not enough. Mfg. have always used different part number springs with different heights and/or rates for different options, such as heavy steel bumpers vs. plastic, etc.
 

NC_Overland

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I wonder if there's a difference in the overland shocks compared to Max Tow shocks. I've considered buying a set of Fox take offs but not sure how much of a difference it would make on my ride quality.
Not really sure on the Max Tow shocks. I just know the Overland ones are way too softly valved for my tastes. I'm not sure if they are different from a standard Sport either. The more I drive on these shocks, the more I like them. I believe the seller when he told me that they'd never been driven on other than the 10 miles his Jeep had on it when he purchased it because they are a little bit softer now. Now, it rides as smooth as stock, but it still doesn't have the floatiness/out of control feeling that I used to get before on the stock Overland shocks. Its the best of both worlds.
 

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RiderDad27

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Guys here's my understanding of the modifications:

I want to put a Rubicon take-off suspension on my Sport Max Tow.

1-I will keep the rear springs of the max tow cause its more progressive than the rubicon one

2- will keep the rubicon front spring as they have no effect when towing and will level the truck

3- We only need to install shock and springs, every links that come with a rubicon suspension kit are NOT needed (since people change them when lifting they give it with the take off suspension)

4- Truck doesnt need an alignement because we just change the shocks and springs

5- Anyone have the torque specs of the shock bolts?

Any other things to keep in mind?

Thanks
 

d k

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Does anyone know for sure what the difference in the axles is between max tow and base?
It says hd wide d44, but looking at the wheel track, seems to be the same?

Does the true track do well off road? Trying to decide which combo to go with..
 

Jeeperjamie

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Guys here's my understanding of the modifications:

I want to put a Rubicon take-off suspension on my Sport Max Tow.

1-I will keep the rear springs of the max tow cause its more progressive than the rubicon one

2- will keep the rubicon front spring as they have no effect when towing and will level the truck

3- We only need to install shock and springs, every links that come with a rubicon suspension kit are NOT needed (since people change them when lifting they give it with the take off suspension)

4- Truck doesnt need an alignement because we just change the shocks and springs

5- Anyone have the torque specs of the shock bolts?

Any other things to keep in mind?

Thanks
Your going to probably want to get an alignment done, every shop I know of and everyone I know that does it always gets and alignment done.
 

Jeeperjamie

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Does anyone know for sure what the difference in the axles is between max tow and base?
It says hd wide d44, but looking at the wheel track, seems to be the same?

Does the true track do well off road? Trying to decide which combo to go with..
Both Rubicon and Max tow have wider axles, you will notice it if put a wider tire on because it will hit on the lower control arm of a regular sport or overland when at full turn. Not sure how wide you can go without affecting it but my buddies non Max tow with 315 70 17 was hitting the lower control arm so he had a 1" spacer lift installed and wheel spacers, not sure how wide wheel spacers he installed. For reference on my max tow running the same tires mine was not hitting the lower control arm at full turn
 
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d k

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OK
Good to know.

how does the true track perform off road?

I'm trying to see if its worth it to get max tow or save the 3300 and go with full lockers


Both Rubicon and Max tow have wider axles, you will notice it if put a wider tire on because it will hit on the lower control arm of a regular sport or overland when at full turn. Not sure how wide you can go without affecting it but my buddies non Max tow with 315 70 17 was hitting the lower control arm so he had a 1" spacer lift installed and wheel spacers, not sure how wide wheel spacers he installed. For reference on my max tow running the same tires mine was not hitting the lower control arm at full turn
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