olecarguy
Well-Known Member
Hi All,
I finished in the installation of both the Accessory Switch Key and the Factory Controller today.
It should be noted, because I was doing 2 upgrades simultaneously, I did all the physical prep work for the brake controller and ACC Switch but held up making electrical connections for the brake controller until I had booted up the Jeep when the ACC Switch Update was done electrically and the dash fully reconnected. The rationale being, a) I only wanted to pull the dash apart once, and b) ensure I could isolate any electrical problems to 1st upgrade since it requires your interface with an existing circuit or the later, being the brake controller.
In this thread I'll:
A) Provide promised UPDATES. See my previous entire post on page 13 for the foundation for the UPDATES:
1) The accessory switch kit the installation instructions are poor pictorial instructions like the brake controller. However, one significant difference is that the accessory kit instructions specifically mention that programming of the PCM by the dealer is needed to "functionalize" the switches, adding in the appropriate sales code. This written instruction to have programmed does not exist with the controller. - IF NEEDED I will UPDATE. - UPDATE - NO PROGRAMMING NEEDED. As mentioned by ShadowPapa this is a completely independent system. The only connection to the vehicle is the plug above the left kick panel. Here the connection is Power, Ground, Cold Side of Brake Switch, and Wire back to trailer plug. I've confirmed this with voltage/ohm reading.
4 d) Brake Pin - F36, which is there, as an optional fuse, is titled "TRAILER TOW MOD". This makes me believe this is the 12VDC supply for the module, although the controller is not included in this vehicle. - As I install the kit, if there is a module already in placeI will UPDATE. - UPDATE: While all trailer related fuses are there, no module exists. F36 is 12VDC for module, as confirmed by voltage measurement with fuse in, and none when removed.
5) 82216416AA wiring appears to connect to wiring kit 82215398, which is a trailer wiring installation kit. Not needed since already pre-wired. It also connects to battery and gnd in engine compartment. and to a DG/WH wire which I suspect is the cold side of the brake switch to activate the controller when braking. The other end plugs into the controller. Given this description and 4d above, I am convinced that the ADH sales code is the "TRAILER TOW PACKAGE" with its wiring and fuses. I suspect once I open the dash I will find the plug to connect the controller to the factory wiring. Hence 82216416AA is not needed if the vehicle is pre-wired. I will UPDATE post install. UPDATE: 82216416AA is not needed if the vehicle is pre-wired and grey plug with 4 wires was pre-existing.
B) Observations I made in bringing the vehicle back up from complete battery disconnect while performing the upgrades.
1) The ACC Switch upgrade, which does require Dealer Reprogramming for functionality. After battery reconnection and starting the vehicle, I found that I had lost several APPS, including Off Road, Rear Camera, and a few others which I can't identify, only know that page 2 of unconnected was sparse when previously quite full. Lost Sirius Radio while AM/FM, AUX and Bluetooth remained functional. Lost temperature control except HI or LO. Nothing in between using dash buttons. If I used U-connect control panel I could slide to a temp, but within seconds to went to LO on its own. Other than this everything else worked.
Disconnected batteries and after back pinning and ohming all connections I made, checking all plugs and reseating, I reconnected negative leads. - Exactly the same situation.
Observation: when connecting the 2 negative wires to the negative terminal I noticed a lot of sparking. I attributed this to the fact that the main and aux batteries are being connected in parallel and I was closing the circuit permitting current to flow between the batteries as they balanced out. (maybe I'll all wet here as I have no measure proof). So, I disconnected the negative leads again and reconnected them quickly and ensured a positive contact while placing on nuts and tighening. This time ensuring no sparks. NOW ALL FUNCTIONS RETURNED TO NORMAL.
Proceeded to wire in the brake controller. Did this with battery connected due to fear of losing functions as I did earlier with ACC Switch install.
Observation 1: The controller module is in a very difficult area to access. I removed the front driver seat to permit better access when laying on my back. Failing to do this, I can't see how one could do this job without potential problems. Being 65 this was much easier. Maybe I'm just too old.
Observation 2: When the controller is mounted, the plug and wires from the dash control switch/pot it is only 1/16- 1/8" or so from the metal dash frame which has very sharp edges. The instructions tell you to put the plugs on the module, then mount it. I can see when the wires could easily get pinched or sliced on the metal edge. To avoid this, I mounted the module loosely so it could tilt in place, placed on the nuts then, plugged in the wires, making sure that as I tightened the module mounting nuts that the wires are clearly away from the frame. If did not have the access I did by removing the seat, I'd venture to say that I might have pinched wires if I followed the MOPAR directions.
C) Controller Operations:
1) Works as presented in the data sheet provided with the unit. When not connected, no lights. When I connected to my trailer, lights up in center, and outer green when connected. Turns red when brake is pressed. DID NOT haul trailer. Did static test only. Will connect and pull in AM. and UPDATE
2) When center button is pushed, trailer connected, Key On Eng On, it turns RED.
3) When center button is pushed, trailer disconnected, Key Off, Shift lights light up, Press brake notification on dash lights, start button lights. This is similar as if you were siting in vehicle while it is asleep and pressed brake.
4) Center button remains lighted for about 15 minutes after disconnecting trailer.
5) Right now, all seems well. No funky lights flashing, etc.
D) Provide data on my vehicle should ShadowPapa choose to start a database for tracking:
a) Built Date: 8/20
b) Model Overland - fairly loaded:
c) LED Lights
d) Blind Spot/Cross Traffic
e) Trailer Tow Package
f) ACC/Forward Collision
g) Automatic High/Beam and Headlights
h) Stop/Start
i) Cold Weather Pkg
Also, trailer I connected to has LED Lights as well.
f) Provide my thoughts on the installation with potential issues which folks may choose to investigate for problems they are having
5) 82216416AA wiring appears to connect to wiring kit 82215398, which is a trailer wiring installation kit. Not needed since already pre-wired. It also connects to battery and gnd in engine compartment. and to a DG/WH wire which I suspect is the cold side of the brake switch to activate the controller when braking. The other end plugs into the controller. Given this description and 4d above, I am convinced that the ADH sales code is the "TRAILER TOW PACKAGE" with its wiring and fuses. I suspect once I open the dash I will find the plug to connect the controller to the factory wiring. Hence 82216416AA is not needed if the vehicle is pre-wired. I will UPDATE post install.
6) Given 82212614AA is not needed. Instructions indicate that you go from step 1 to step 20, then to 61-67.
7) No mention of programming is required.
So, assuming the storm permits, I will attempt to install the brake controller this weekend, along with accessory switch kit, and will update next week.
I finished in the installation of both the Accessory Switch Key and the Factory Controller today.
It should be noted, because I was doing 2 upgrades simultaneously, I did all the physical prep work for the brake controller and ACC Switch but held up making electrical connections for the brake controller until I had booted up the Jeep when the ACC Switch Update was done electrically and the dash fully reconnected. The rationale being, a) I only wanted to pull the dash apart once, and b) ensure I could isolate any electrical problems to 1st upgrade since it requires your interface with an existing circuit or the later, being the brake controller.
In this thread I'll:
A) Provide promised UPDATES. See my previous entire post on page 13 for the foundation for the UPDATES:
1) The accessory switch kit the installation instructions are poor pictorial instructions like the brake controller. However, one significant difference is that the accessory kit instructions specifically mention that programming of the PCM by the dealer is needed to "functionalize" the switches, adding in the appropriate sales code. This written instruction to have programmed does not exist with the controller. - IF NEEDED I will UPDATE. - UPDATE - NO PROGRAMMING NEEDED. As mentioned by ShadowPapa this is a completely independent system. The only connection to the vehicle is the plug above the left kick panel. Here the connection is Power, Ground, Cold Side of Brake Switch, and Wire back to trailer plug. I've confirmed this with voltage/ohm reading.
4 d) Brake Pin - F36, which is there, as an optional fuse, is titled "TRAILER TOW MOD". This makes me believe this is the 12VDC supply for the module, although the controller is not included in this vehicle. - As I install the kit, if there is a module already in placeI will UPDATE. - UPDATE: While all trailer related fuses are there, no module exists. F36 is 12VDC for module, as confirmed by voltage measurement with fuse in, and none when removed.
5) 82216416AA wiring appears to connect to wiring kit 82215398, which is a trailer wiring installation kit. Not needed since already pre-wired. It also connects to battery and gnd in engine compartment. and to a DG/WH wire which I suspect is the cold side of the brake switch to activate the controller when braking. The other end plugs into the controller. Given this description and 4d above, I am convinced that the ADH sales code is the "TRAILER TOW PACKAGE" with its wiring and fuses. I suspect once I open the dash I will find the plug to connect the controller to the factory wiring. Hence 82216416AA is not needed if the vehicle is pre-wired. I will UPDATE post install. UPDATE: 82216416AA is not needed if the vehicle is pre-wired and grey plug with 4 wires was pre-existing.
B) Observations I made in bringing the vehicle back up from complete battery disconnect while performing the upgrades.
1) The ACC Switch upgrade, which does require Dealer Reprogramming for functionality. After battery reconnection and starting the vehicle, I found that I had lost several APPS, including Off Road, Rear Camera, and a few others which I can't identify, only know that page 2 of unconnected was sparse when previously quite full. Lost Sirius Radio while AM/FM, AUX and Bluetooth remained functional. Lost temperature control except HI or LO. Nothing in between using dash buttons. If I used U-connect control panel I could slide to a temp, but within seconds to went to LO on its own. Other than this everything else worked.
Disconnected batteries and after back pinning and ohming all connections I made, checking all plugs and reseating, I reconnected negative leads. - Exactly the same situation.
Observation: when connecting the 2 negative wires to the negative terminal I noticed a lot of sparking. I attributed this to the fact that the main and aux batteries are being connected in parallel and I was closing the circuit permitting current to flow between the batteries as they balanced out. (maybe I'll all wet here as I have no measure proof). So, I disconnected the negative leads again and reconnected them quickly and ensured a positive contact while placing on nuts and tighening. This time ensuring no sparks. NOW ALL FUNCTIONS RETURNED TO NORMAL.
Proceeded to wire in the brake controller. Did this with battery connected due to fear of losing functions as I did earlier with ACC Switch install.
Observation 1: The controller module is in a very difficult area to access. I removed the front driver seat to permit better access when laying on my back. Failing to do this, I can't see how one could do this job without potential problems. Being 65 this was much easier. Maybe I'm just too old.
Observation 2: When the controller is mounted, the plug and wires from the dash control switch/pot it is only 1/16- 1/8" or so from the metal dash frame which has very sharp edges. The instructions tell you to put the plugs on the module, then mount it. I can see when the wires could easily get pinched or sliced on the metal edge. To avoid this, I mounted the module loosely so it could tilt in place, placed on the nuts then, plugged in the wires, making sure that as I tightened the module mounting nuts that the wires are clearly away from the frame. If did not have the access I did by removing the seat, I'd venture to say that I might have pinched wires if I followed the MOPAR directions.
C) Controller Operations:
1) Works as presented in the data sheet provided with the unit. When not connected, no lights. When I connected to my trailer, lights up in center, and outer green when connected. Turns red when brake is pressed. DID NOT haul trailer. Did static test only. Will connect and pull in AM. and UPDATE
2) When center button is pushed, trailer connected, Key On Eng On, it turns RED.
3) When center button is pushed, trailer disconnected, Key Off, Shift lights light up, Press brake notification on dash lights, start button lights. This is similar as if you were siting in vehicle while it is asleep and pressed brake.
4) Center button remains lighted for about 15 minutes after disconnecting trailer.
5) Right now, all seems well. No funky lights flashing, etc.
D) Provide data on my vehicle should ShadowPapa choose to start a database for tracking:
a) Built Date: 8/20
b) Model Overland - fairly loaded:
c) LED Lights
d) Blind Spot/Cross Traffic
e) Trailer Tow Package
f) ACC/Forward Collision
g) Automatic High/Beam and Headlights
h) Stop/Start
i) Cold Weather Pkg
Also, trailer I connected to has LED Lights as well.
f) Provide my thoughts on the installation with potential issues which folks may choose to investigate for problems they are having
5) 82216416AA wiring appears to connect to wiring kit 82215398, which is a trailer wiring installation kit. Not needed since already pre-wired. It also connects to battery and gnd in engine compartment. and to a DG/WH wire which I suspect is the cold side of the brake switch to activate the controller when braking. The other end plugs into the controller. Given this description and 4d above, I am convinced that the ADH sales code is the "TRAILER TOW PACKAGE" with its wiring and fuses. I suspect once I open the dash I will find the plug to connect the controller to the factory wiring. Hence 82216416AA is not needed if the vehicle is pre-wired. I will UPDATE post install.
6) Given 82212614AA is not needed. Instructions indicate that you go from step 1 to step 20, then to 61-67.
7) No mention of programming is required.
So, assuming the storm permits, I will attempt to install the brake controller this weekend, along with accessory switch kit, and will update next week.
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