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Who here does not use LED because the lens is not heated?

Benbean66

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As for power, I have a base sport with a soft top, so I do not have a rear defroster button. I'd be ok with a separate switch, or if there was a way to integrate it into the front window defroster position on the dash.
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I don't understand why anyone would care if the heating element is on automatically when the temp is low enough? My Trucklites on my JKR are always on as far as I know and it has never been a problem and I never have to think about it.

Having to manually turn them on just means you've already noticed a degradation of light output, so it's a bit late then.
 

gthanson

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I think the automatic temperature sensor option would work best. Same as some other people have already pointed out, it's not necessarily somethign you notice until it's too late. If it were daylight and the DRLs were covered up by snow or ice, you wouldn't even notice the reduced light output.

I'd be interested in trialing a set too, I live in Norther Ontario, just above Lake Superior. I'm psyched that you're adding this option to your 9" LEDs, that was the only reason i didn't purchase before.
 

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Benbean66

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I think the only reason I was thinking against the "always on" option, was in the situation where it was just over freezing, and road salt spray would cover the lens. If the heaters were on, the salt would dry to a haze, diminishing the light output. If they were allowed to stay "wet", the salt wouldn't dry on them, and be washed off more easily. But if the temp sensor was accurate enough to come on right at, or just below freezing, I'd definitely consider that option.
 

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I don't understand why anyone would care if the heating element is on automatically when the temp is low enough? My Trucklites on my JKR are always on as far as I know and it has never been a problem and I never have to think about it.

Having to manually turn them on just means you've already noticed a degradation of light output, so it's a bit late then.
Heating elements of any sort have a limited life. Heat causes failure. You can see that in things from hair dryers to soldering irons to rear window defrosters, and more.

Having them temp sensitive would be far better than always on - otherwise tying them to the rear window and MIRROR defrost would be an idea.
I definitely would not want "always on" or on any time the lights are on.
Temp sensitive would be ideal because it would at least limit the time they were on.
Waiting to turn them on manually could be problematic in other ways - warming and keeping it warm and preventing ice is easier than waiting until they are snow and ice covered and trying to melt it off.
 

Gatorized

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As for power, I have a base sport with a soft top, so I do not have a rear defroster button. I'd be ok with a separate switch, or if there was a way to integrate it into the front window defroster position on the dash.
No rear defroster on a soft top, but I thought all JTs had the dash switch in case you add the hard top later.
 

Gvsukids

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Gvsukids

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So the process of integrating the heating element into the radius curve of or Oculus lens was far more complex of a task than we initially thought but we were finally able to work with a partner with the equipment needed to do this correctly.

The other cool thing is that the heated design mirrors the bezel design of the Oculus lights so it does not look like an afterthought like a lot of the other options out there.

oculus_heated_lens.jpg


For those of you looking for a heated option we would like to offer these at a discounted price to 2-3 members here who would use these through the winter and provide some feedback. If you would be interested just post here in the thread and we will reach out when we have some units assembled.
What would be the cost for the discounted lights?
 

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jurfie

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jurfie

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Heating elements of any sort have a limited life. Heat causes failure. You can see that in things from hair dryers to soldering irons to rear window defrosters, and more.

Having them temp sensitive would be far better than always on - otherwise tying them to the rear window and MIRROR defrost would be an idea.
I definitely would not want "always on" or on any time the lights are on.
Temp sensitive would be ideal because it would at least limit the time they were on.
Waiting to turn them on manually could be problematic in other ways - warming and keeping it warm and preventing ice is easier than waiting until they are snow and ice covered and trying to melt it off.
I just checked; my Truck Lites only turn on if the temp is <50F, so not always on. I think this is the best option; set and forget.

I agree and meant to also say that it is harder to thaw an already frozen headlight than prevent it from freezing in the first place.
 
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We have our initial prototypes assembled and installing for a snow test next week. Will have more info soon!

Jeep Gladiator Who here does not use LED because the lens is not heated? IMG_3076.3
 
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ORACLElights

ORACLElights

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Initial cold weather testing is going very well, we are making some small adjustments to the programming but excellent results so far!

This design is 100% plug and play, no additional wiring required for the heating element. Integrated temperature sensors are built into the lights and the lights include a small status LED to tell you when the heater element is on.

Jeep Gladiator Who here does not use LED because the lens is not heated? IMG_3211
Jeep Gladiator Who here does not use LED because the lens is not heated? IMG_3214
 

JRobes

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Initial cold weather testing is going very well, we are making some small adjustments to the programming but excellent results so far!

This design is 100% plug and play, no additional wiring required for the heating element. Integrated temperature sensors are built into the lights and the lights include a small status LED to tell you when the heater element is on.

Jeep Gladiator Who here does not use LED because the lens is not heated? IMG_3214
Jeep Gladiator Who here does not use LED because the lens is not heated? IMG_3214
I dig the indicator light. It would be pretty awesome if you could run a pair of wires to the cab for an in cab indicator light...
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