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Proximity door locks retrofit on Wrangler/Gladiator, someone figured it out (DIY writeup)

jtforrester

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Hey Joebaseball, which pins did you bend? I installed the drivers (LF) side handle, cap, 333AF cable harness, programmed prox entry using Tazer a couple of days ago and get NOTHING from the handle.
Not trying to be condescending, but did you have your key on you when you tried it? And when you enabled it with the Tazer, did you do a full reboot after you made the change? Again, not trying to be condescending, just trying to help make sure nothing was overlooked.
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1) look on the body side of the door connector for pins in the location in the photo.
04BA63F9-A491-419D-A226-9FA4028BBC0D.jpeg

2)yes that should be all you need
3)so far there have been no reports of success with the Tazer but I don’t think they would put it out without testing it.
4)Blind Spot Monitoring.

HTH
Gregj
Thanks for providing this image. I just checked and it appears mine has the pins in locations 15 & 16 (image below). That said, no jumper would be required and I can just order the kit?

Jeep Gladiator Proximity door locks retrofit on Wrangler/Gladiator, someone figured it out (DIY writeup) 4DE35AEF-1956-40C4-A0A4-9510FD0B4CEE
 

Taking Betts

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Great question, but if you are able to bend the harness from the Jeep to get a good clear picture it'll be quite obvious. I got the best picture in the daylight and simply twisted it a 1/4 turn or so. I actually had 2-3 bent. I just used a screwdriver to line them up with the others. Once I did the door lock all the sudden started working. I had previously already programmed the door via JScan.
Now I see why you said 'if you are able...'. I was finally able to capture a clear enough picture that identified two bent pins. It didn't start working just yet but I'll give it some time. Thanks for the advice.
 

Taking Betts

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Not trying to be condescending, but did you have your key on you when you tried it? And when you enabled it with the Tazer, did you do a full reboot after you made the change? Again, not trying to be condescending, just trying to help make sure nothing was overlooked.
Hey there. Yep, I had my giant keyfob in my front pocket so I'd be close to the door and have done several full reboots after I made the programming change. It seems to have stuck (it's enabled on the 8.4 " screen) and has been in that state for a couple of days.
 

Joebbaseball

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Now I see why you said 'if you are able...'. I was finally able to capture a clear enough picture that identified two bent pins. It didn't start working just yet but I'll give it some time. Thanks for the advice.
Yeah, I'm an Iphone guy, she's Samsung. After several blurry shots I gave up and used hers. The Samsung seems to be better at closeups. In order to get a good head-on shot I could only get a couple inches away. Once I had a clear pic, as Greg on here suggested, it was pretty obvious I had a pin issue. Amazing those pins are so sensitive in an area that could be heavily used.
 

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Taking Betts

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Yeah, I'm an Iphone guy, she's Samsung. After several blurry shots I gave up and used hers. The Samsung seems to be better at closeups. In order to get a good head-on shot I could only get a couple inches away. Once I had a clear pic, as Greg on here suggested, it was pretty obvious I had a pin issue. Amazing those pins are so sensitive in an area that could be heavily used.
My iPhone, and my aging eyes, didn't cut it and had to borrow my son's Samsung! I'm very concerned about those sensitive pins as well. I'm usually pretty cautious about seating or unseating connectors and would have thought Jeep would have beefed up this connector. Don't remember even being slightly concerned about this disconnect on my 09 Wrangler.

Jeep Gladiator Proximity door locks retrofit on Wrangler/Gladiator, someone figured it out (DIY writeup) IMG_1013
 

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Not trying to be condescending, but did you have your key on you when you tried it? And when you enabled it with the Tazer, did you do a full reboot after you made the change? Again, not trying to be condescending, just trying to help make sure nothing was overlooked.
No one has mentioned doing any full reboot.
 

Kevin_D

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Well, there you go @ShadowsPapa :
A hair drier and WD-40 should do the trick!
Now if I can get a non-rainy (or snowy) day...
Some clear weather with temps above freezing today, so I did the right door. I used my heat gun on the regulator bolts, and they came out with a little back-and-forth action. It’s amazing how fast it went when the bolts don’t break...
I had to heat them a bit to get ‘em to go back in smoothly, too. But now it’s all done.

Hey Joebaseball, which pins did you bend? I installed the drivers (LF) side handle, cap, 333AF cable harness, programmed prox entry using Tazer a couple of days ago and get NOTHING from the handle.
Did you remember to set the AP1 (left) /AP2 (right) antenna to Smart Switch?
I found out it doesn’t work without the associated antenna enabled.

Kevin
 
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ShadowsPapa

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Some clear weather with temps above freezing today, so I did the right door. I used my heat gun on the regulator bolts, and they came out with a little back-and-forth action. It’s amazing how fast it went when the bolts don’t break...
I had to heat them a bit to get ‘em to go back in smoothly, too. But now it’s all done.


Did you remember to set the AF1 (left) /AF2 (right) antenna to Smart Switch?
I found out it doesn’t work without the associated antenna enabled.

Kevin
I had thought about doing mine today - it hit 52 for a few minutes - but my wife's mother's funeral was today and that was such a complex story, no way.
Oh, well - maybe I will move a car out of my shop.
The dealership told me that when I got the parts in they'd look into adding the sales code to my VIN.
Good tip on the antenna settings. I had almost forgotten that myself.
 

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Some clear weather with temps above freezing today, so I did the right door. I used my heat gun on the regulator bolts, and they came out with a little back-and-forth action. It’s amazing how fast it went when the bolts don’t break...
I had to heat them a bit to get ‘em to go back in smoothly, too. But now it’s all done.


Did you remember to set the AF1 (left) /AF2 (right) antenna to Smart Switch?
I found out it doesn’t work without the associated antenna enabled.

Kevin
Hi Kevin, I think those are JSCAN settings, correct? I'm not familiar with any antenna settings using a Tazer MINI.
 

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Gregj

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Thanks for providing this image. I just checked and it appears mine has the pins in locations 15 & 16 (image below). That said, no jumper would be required and I can just order the kit?

4DE35AEF-1956-40C4-A0A4-9510FD0B4CEE.jpeg
Looks like you just need the parts and some programming.

Gregj
 

ShadowsPapa

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You have to fully reboot the Tazer after making any settings change.
So it's a TAZER reboot - it must not write changes unless rebooted?
 

Kevin_D

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Hi Kevin, I think those are JSCAN settings, correct? I'm not familiar with any antenna settings using a Tazer MINI.
Yes, JScan.
With JScan you need to enable the passive entry, turn on the UConnect passive entry setting, and enable the appropriate antennas.
How many settings does the Tazer have?

Kevin
 

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AP1 Left front > smart switch

AP2 right front > smart switch

Passive entry present > yes/ active

Passive entry CSM > yes/ active
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