Can you build a better Jeep and save money by starting with a Sport S?

[Brfertig [HACKED ACCOUNT]]

I mean I appreciate the build...but you bought a truck built off of years of tech from previous models. Its highly advanced and built better, even in basic stock form, than any Jeep before it. You did, in fact, buy a built Jeep in that respect. Turns out there's just models that have a tad more. I realize you have done some great work. You wanted to start with your idea of base and grow from there....which is exactly what I have done. Only my idea of base is to start with the Rubicon and go from there. Just don't get why people compare it to the Rubicon VS stating "Bought a base model and built it, here's my vid"...yet people must compare it to the Rubicon for some reason.

I'm not here to shit on your thread, so I'll leave it at that.

I dont get worked up over that stuff. I think we compare it because everyone want or asks is it a rubicon. Like you already know the answer but it doesn't matter because it doesn't have the sticker. But then I show them my work, and my pictures, and what the inside of the axle looks like and all the other things. You get that pride from your rubi, us sport guys just want some of that good stuff too but in a different way.

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[XJADDICTION]

yet people must compare it to the Rubicon for some reason.

I'm not here to shit on your thread, so I'll leave it at that.

The comparison to the Rubicon is because of the off road prowess it holds, BUT with the same options my JT Max would’ve cost $10G more in Rubicon trim at the time I bought mine.

I’ve had a top of the line 2016 Rubicon Wrangler and I’ve built many Jeeps over many years. The problem I had with the Rubicon (many have had similar issues that actually use them off road) is malfunctioning lockers and sway bar DC.

With my JT I have everything the Rubicon has but the obvious bits for a reason. I am adding a premium lift, ARB lockers ( more reliable/ stronger than Rubicon lockers, rock jock anti sway or the one that you flip a manual bracket and it disconnects and flip it back and it locks back in when the suspension is cycled (can’t remember the name), gears 4:88 or 5:13, 37” tires, rear airbags for towing.

So only thing I am not changing is the t-case, but if I do will go with Atlas.

Better stronger components, a little higher cost than buying the rubicon, but a more capable
More reliable rig.

 

[BLK HOLE]

The comparison to the Rubicon is because of the off road prowess it holds, BUT with the same options my JT Max would’ve cost $10G more in Rubicon trim at the time I bought mine.

I’ve had a top of the line 2016 Rubicon Wrangler and I’ve built many Jeeps over many years. The problem I had with the Rubicon (many have had similar issues that actually use them off road) is malfunctioning lockers and sway bar DC.

With my JT I have everything the Rubicon has but the obvious bits for a reason. I am adding a premium lift, ARB lockers ( more reliable/ stronger than Rubicon lockers, rock jock anti sway or the one that you flip a manual bracket and it disconnects and flip it back and it locks back in when the suspension is cycled (can’t remember the name), gears 4:88 or 5:13, 37” tires, rear airbags for towing.

So only thing I am not changing is the t-case, but if I do will go with Atlas.

Better stronger components, a little higher cost than buying the rubicon, but a more capable
More reliable rig.

What makes it more capable? I mean you already said your crawl ratios are worse.

I have 2 Rubicons (also a JKUR). The rear locker stuck once in its lifetime.

 

[Brfertig [HACKED ACCOUNT]]

What makes it more capable? I mean you already said your crawl ratios are worse.

I have 2 Rubicons (also a JKUR). The rear locker stuck once in its lifetime.

I can't speak for him but in my build my axle shaft is thicker at 1.5 inches compared to rubicons 1.35. 35 spline and big as a dana 60. The rubi is 32 spline and thinner. The axle bearings are much larger as well. Definitely a must if 40s are on there for the long term.

 

[DAVECS1]

Yeah cars are horrible investments in money but awesome investments in time. I bought mine to drive and have fun. I bought a sport cause, I did not want to pay for the stuff I was probably going to remove at some point anyway. The pluses. actually dig the front aero bumper (weird). I like the Max tow fenders unpainted. I did not want FAD. I want to install my own carriers, good stuff when it is available. The Mopar katskin interior is way better than anything factory. Rather not have Guardian unconnect as I hated it in my 2019 RAM so 7 inches is adequate lol.

 

[BLK HOLE]

I can't speak for him but in my build my axle shaft is thicker at 1.5 inches compared to rubicons 1.35. 35 spline and big as a dana 60. The rubi is 32 spline and thinner. The axle bearings are much larger as well. Definitely a must if 40s are on there for the long term.

That’s not capability tho. I mean I guess it’s “capable” of taking on more loads but that’s not what one usually means when they say more capable. I took it to mean that it could do more than a rubicon.

These 3rd gen wide track axles are strong AF. Those axle housings are thicker and stronger than base models and really the axles are already half D60s already. Glad you found some that are that thick all the way down the shaft tho. But the new D44 WT axles can already handle a lot. I haven’t seen many people have problems with them and I’ve wheeled alongside 40s plenty of times.

 

[Munkey Boy]

I don't want a Rubicon or a Sport, I want MY Gladiator. I had a choice and saw that the Rubi could easily accommodate anything I could throw at it, my needs however in the region I live with the tasks I will set on my truck said that a Sport will do just fine. It isn't necessarily a matter of preference more than need, and I'm cheap. The Rubi is the benchmark, but in my case it's not the goal. Plus, I'm a mechanic and fabricator who wants to be unique.

So, frugality plus practicality plus ability plus just being me equals an opportunity to make something greater than the sum of its parts, not better than a Rubi nor having any trade-in value as I intend to die long before she does.

The debate is old and it stems from silly labels designed by Jeep marketing more than Jeep engineers. The accounting department says that ease of building X model and Y model is more cost effective than having a base Gladiator with a la carte options. We tell ourselves that we must compare X to Y when we are all given Gladiator. Comparing ability to the amount of money spent seems irrelevant to making it your own whether it's a Rubi OR a built up Sport. And, the grin on the driver of either a stock or modded JT... undebatable and priceless.

My $0.02. But knowing how cheap I am, let's make it just one cent. ?

 

[Summitsearcher]

I don't want a Rubicon or a Sport, I want MY Gladiator. I had a choice and saw that the Rubi could easily accommodate anything I could throw at it, my needs however in the region I live with the tasks I will set on my truck said that a Sport will do just fine. It isn't necessarily a matter of preference more than need, and I'm cheap. The Rubi is the benchmark, but in my case it's not the goal. Plus, I'm a mechanic and fabricator who wants to be unique.

So, frugality plus practicality plus ability plus just being me equals an opportunity to make something greater than the sum of its parts, not better than a Rubi nor having any trade-in value as I intend to die long before she does.

The debate is old and it stems from silly labels designed by Jeep marketing more than Jeep engineers. The accounting department says that ease of building X model and Y model is more cost effective than having a base Gladiator with a la carte options. We tell ourselves that we must compare X to Y when we are all given Gladiator. Comparing ability to the amount of money spent seems irrelevant to making it your own whether it's a Rubi OR a built up Sport. And, the grin on the driver of either a stock or modded JT... undebatable and priceless.

My $0.02. But knowing how cheap I am, let's make it just one cent. ?

You have one penny more to rub than my wooden nickels.

 

[Rubi_Rhod]

I was weighing this for a while going back and forth. But I think the “get the sport” and option out holds better for getting a Max Tow auto than a manual.

As I wanted a manual first and foremost, the Max tow package isn’t available to get the wider axles and some 4:10’s to start out.

That $10k gets eaten up quickly in a base sport vs a Rubi.

Lockers - $3k
Gears -$2k
Fox shocks/lift - $1500
Wheels - $1000
Rock sliders/additional armor - $1000
Fenders - $500
Paint match Vented hood - $1500

Which leaves a negative (-$500) for a swaybar solution, transfer case (although the 2.73 is fine for a lot of things) and the power and convince options that are standard on the Rubi.

If One were looking at a Max Tow auto, they can really get away with a lift kit and be pretty solid with at least the limited slip, gears and trans that are happy for 35’s even 37’s in a pinch until later. So you can definitely scale and buy parts better.

So for me, I really wanted a bare bones truck with all the Jeep goodness of loaded axles and go anywhere capability. If I could have gotten a Max Tow equipped 6MT I’d have done it in a flash as it would have been a perfect starting place. But in going manual, most of the option kits just don’t end with the mechanics I wanted.

While I’ll likely ditch the 4.10’s down the road, thats about the only part that will get “thrown away” off my Rubi. Suspension eventually, but as it’s Fox now, im in no rush. So thats all consumables anyway.

All in all, I really love seeing all the Sport/Overland builds. Not everyone needs loaded up axles and such. But if that’s your end goal, and you want a stick, go get the base spec rubi (just add proximity entry and the switches). If you’re shopping an auto, find the Max Tow equipped model you like, and start there.

 

[aldo98229]

I never thought of resale until I owned a Wrangler. Now resale is a key factor for buying another one —and modding it.

Strong resale is a funny thing: you never care for it until you get it; then you can’t go on without it.

On the same vein, I’ve learned to stay away from mods that reduce resale.

If I can choose between two mods that get me the same result: one that does it by holding resale, the other that doesn’t, I’ll pick the former.

Of course none of this is a perfect science. But after having owned and sold a few Jeeps, one learns the tricks and gets the hang of it.

 

[aldo98229]

BTW, in some people's minds, this is what “better” looks like.

Dealers absolutely HATE getting something like this in trade.

For every 20 or 30 enquiries they get on a regular Jeep, they will get one for this. And very few of those bother to follow up with a dealer visit.

 

[IslandFalconer]

My justification for the Rubicon was simple. I work in Falconry based bird abatement. I drive in off road situations where the factory lockers, suspension travel and factory build are adequate to keep me out of most of my daily situations. Add a winch and 35’s and I’m basically good to go. I don’t have the time to buy a new truck, and spend days/weekends making my rig capable for work.
I’m self employed and work 6 days a week. Also, keeping it as a factory build, I have a warranty on everything. I don’t have to worry about all the aftermarket hassle. My Rubicon does hold a little more resale value. And as middle aged guy, when I trade it or sell it as unmodified, well taken care of. i Don’t have a hard time. many dealers will actually give you less for a highly modified rig, and although some people are happy to buy someone’s “ backyard build “ many people are looking for factory stock and clean.

Now, can you build a more capable rig than a Rubicon from a base JT, of course you can. Can you do it for less money? Maybe if you’re a capable person who can do most of the work yourself. If you are not that type of person, you will spend far more money to get a base sport up to Rubicon spec.
so it depends on many factors.

 

[whiteglad]

So much depends on what "capable" means to you. I considered past use of my JKUR and realized that I didn't like the steeper low range, and didn't use the lockers, even in the occasional snow and light mud where I go. I did, however, want capable tires. While I did not plan to use it as a primary tow vehicle, I wanted the capability. The max tow gave me the strong axles and 4.10s which made 33" tires more practical, while keeping most of the max tow capability.

 

[869 KPH]

Percentage wise you will probably realize the same return on ... investment... ?

IDK if I agree with everything you're saying, but I've always kinda wondered/agreed with this part - sure the Rubicon trades/sells for more, but is the difference just proportional to the original cost of the trim upgrade? - And if it is, I don't see why that isn't an argument just to go for it if you at all just want to.

although some people are happy to buy someone’s “ backyard build “ many people are looking for factory stock and clean.

1,000x this. A Rubicon is factory-backed and a standardized, known thing.

I like the concept of learning your hobby inside and out enough to build something up as your own, but the phrase 'built not bought' does seem unnecessarily antagonistic.

 

[BLK HOLE]

Well -

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