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So, what is everybody towing?

Dainbramaged

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2020 Springdale 1800BH Rugged Terrain. Just took it on a 3400 mile round trip from Missouri To Utah and back! Handled the mountains of Colorado very well. Only bad part was the 30 mph head wind through KS where I got about 7 MPG... OOF. Other than that we averaged 11 MPG for the trip. Gladiator is on 37s and regeared to 5.13s.

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I’m pulling a 17MKE that looks similarly sized, probably 5100 lbs loaded with my JTR on 37’s as well and spend way too much time at or above 5000 RPM in 4th gear trying (& failing) to maintain 65 mph on the rolling hills in VA, PA, and MD, so I’m ready to regear but struggling to decide between 4.88’s and 5.13’s. Do you mind sharing what led you to go deeper with the 5.13’s and what your experience has been when towing?
We use the JTR to tow our trailer to the off-road parks, so off-road performance is an important factor for us. Probably 50% of the mileage on the vehicle is just traveling to the next camp site as I work from home when not traveling. Thanks for anything you (or others) can share to help us decide which gearing makes the most sense!

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BlackDog

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Is anyone using the anderson weight distribution hitch with built in sway control? It is lighter than most wdh systems yet i do not see many using them on this sight.
I would think the reduced weight would help with payload.
Do they just not work well?
I've been using it for a few years and think it works great. Levels things out nicely and handles sway great. No issues with wear up to now. I tow a lighter trailer (Winnebago Drop, 3200lbs +/-) than others here.
 

zncram

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I’m pulling a 17MKE that looks similarly sized, probably 5100 lbs loaded with my JTR on 37’s as well and spend way too much time at or above 5000 RPM in 4th gear trying (& failing) to maintain 65 mph on the rolling hills in VA, PA, and MD, so I’m ready to regear but struggling to decide between 4.88’s and 5.13’s. Do you mind sharing what led you to go deeper with the 5.13’s and what your experience has been when towing?
We use the JTR to tow our trailer to the off-road parks, so off-road performance is an important factor for us. Probably 50% of the mileage on the vehicle is just traveling to the next camp site as I work from home when not traveling. Thanks for anything you (or others) can share to help us decide which gearing makes the most sense!

7C7D9E1A-EC78-4942-B47D-FECFC4B383CE.jpeg

I relied on the expertise of many different guy that are way smarter than I am when it comes to the specifics of regearing. They pretty much all agreed that with the amount of towing I do 5.13 would be the best route to go. On the trip we took which was in a lot of steep terrain (Utah and Colorado) the Gladiator did really good. Now its not a 3500 with a cummins but for what it is it did great. Going up the Eisenhauer pass I was able to hold a decent speed and wasn't stressed about the RPM or temps at all. I would 100% do the 5.13s again considering the amount I tow the camper. Any other questions let me know!
 

BlackDog

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I relied on the expertise of many different guy that are way smarter than I am when it comes to the specifics of regearing. They pretty much all agreed that with the amount of towing I do 5.13 would be the best route to go. On the trip we took which was in a lot of steep terrain (Utah and Colorado) the Gladiator did really good. Now its not a 3500 with a cummins but for what it is it did great. Going up the Eisenhauer pass I was able to hold a decent speed and wasn't stressed about the RPM or temps at all. I would 100% do the 5.13s again considering the amount I tow the camper. Any other questions let me know!
Since I drive that pass (Eisenhauer) regularly, you've piqued my interest. Can you define "decent speed"? Looking at your rig, I'm probably 1K lbs less than yours and driving east up to the tunnel it's not uncommon to be running at 6k RPM and holding 40 - 50 mph with the gas floored. Similar heading up Vail pass. I've been thinking of an upgrade to the diesel but perhaps a regear would be a simpler approach.
 

DBT

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are floored at 6000RPM in 4th at 45mph with one set of rear gears, won't regearing lower just make you floored at 6000RPM in 5th instead at that same 45mph? You'll get to peak power faster for accelerating from a stop, and be able to crawl slower, but for sustained steep climbs at 40 or 50mph, does a regear help?
 

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zncram

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Since I drive that pass (Eisenhauer) regularly, you've piqued my interest. Can you define "decent speed"? Looking at your rig, I'm probably 1K lbs less than yours and driving east up to the tunnel it's not uncommon to be running at 6k RPM and holding 40 - 50 mph with the gas floored. Similar heading up Vail pass. I've been thinking of an upgrade to the diesel but perhaps a regear would be a simpler approach.
I was holding 45mph and was no where near 6k RPM. Sorry I don't have exact numbers for you but it was not nearly the "pucker factor" I expected.
 

Jt-wrx

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are floored at 6000RPM in 4th at 45mph with one set of rear gears, won't regearing lower just make you floored at 6000RPM in 5th instead at that same 45mph? You'll get to peak power faster for accelerating from a stop, and be able to crawl slower, but for sustained steep climbs at 40 or 50mph, does a regear help?
100% it helps. It's one of the single best mods one will do for oversized tires period. Empty or trailering or offroading. When you match the axle ratio to the tires all the drivability off the lot comes back. I ran without for awhile and it was ok empty on street but needed 4 lo to reverse bump my trailer up onto a curb, or start on a buddies steep driveway in the country empty, or even to break crust in 6" of snow from a dig in 4wd...this was bad case scenario i started with 35's and 3.73 and manual transmission, then ordered the 4.88's and 37's...well the 37's showed first and i had to throw them on. I was essentially a 4 speed at that point. It was terrible on highway, couldn't use cruise control, not enough options to match speeds with power. The difference going to 4.88's was night and day, i built a lightweight rig, i didn't add heavy protection, bumpers, winches or overland gear...and my trailer isn't heavy either, maybe 3000 lbs loaded. I'd go 5.13 if running heavy and 37's but 4.88's if staying lightweight sporty 'stock plus' sort of build and trailer not too heavy. I can hold cruise empty no problem now, most rolling hills no issue, when not trailering, 6th gear, 75 mph all day. When trailering, tow gear is 4th (1:1 ratio) and can run 60-64 mph 2800-3000 rpm all day long on cruise and hold most hills. Whatever is required for a manual you get a lot more flexibility with the auto, you have a broader spread of gears with the auto and a very smart set up with the auto and programming...so when you get the axle ratio's in the wheelhouse for the taller tires it's an awesome experience, just as if you didn't lift it and put the big wheels on in the first place. Don't contemplate this modification...just do it. Period. If you haven't got enough power after that only then do you go looking for more power, most won't need to take it any further.

I could not imagine trying to tow without the regear. If i had to stop in the mountains on a serious incline due to accident or whatever holding things up....and had to try and start i'd need 4 lo....then when you get going how do you shift in 2 hi real quick? No...if you have a manual transmission and gonna tow...re-gear to your tire heights. The auto could squeak you through a lot more situations but your mileage will suffer and it will be a dog in most situations also.
 

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What's the draw back for a sport with 5.13s and 37s compared to a max tow with some stock tires and 4.10s? How much of a real world difference will the cooling and wider axles on a max tow make. I don't tow anything now but it might be in my future.
 

Jt-wrx

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Odd question, no drawback. 33’s and 4.10’s will feel closest to 37’s and 4.88’s. 5.13’s with 37’s is more aggressive and will help heavier rigs or those that tow heavier feel strong like stock. Stock max tow with the little tires 31.5” maybe 32” will maybe feel like 5.13 and 37’s. Either will feel strong and quick.
 

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Save for the WEIGHT of the bigger tires, and the extra stress taller tires put on brakes, increase braking distances.
 

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Mac

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Towed my Waverunner up to Maine, didn’t really know it was there.

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xpcdoojk

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Well it is Waverunner.... kind of like a small lawnmower, I would hope to heck it was not an issue.:LOL:
 

TAUPEK

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i have a max tow pkg, auto with 4.10 gears and 285\70\17 tires. when towing my 4900 lb TT, I am turning 4500 rpm in 6 gear, very rarely getting into 7 gear. dealer said that is correct with those gears. Bummer. i was hoping the max tow would be better down the hi-way. travel cross country this way? aint happening. maybe try the stock 245\75\17 tires? any thoughts? smaller TT?
 

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My ram 1500 pentastar 8-spd had a tow haul mode, I hadn’t even thought of that for these auto’s. Tow haul was very useful and also a must when I towed same trailer I now tow with Jeep 6-spd. You would want to use manual mode and select the gears yourself. You should be able to get that trailer down the road at less than 4500 rpm. I’m lighter and 2800-3000 is plenty.
 

Glad_he_ate

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I rather enjoy the towing experience with the eco diesel. Gcw of 11350 lbs and it’ll hold 7th at 65 just around 2200 rpm. Happy as a clam!!!
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