Shimmy when hitting bumps/dips

[FutureOdin]

So, what you are describing could be bump steer. I just installed geometry correction brackets that return the alignment of the control arms to OEM specs. I have both adjustable length control arms and now the geometry brackets. The brackets by far made the most significant difference. I am not an alignment expert, but have been doing my alignments and lifts on Jeep's for awhile. I have tried lots of fixes to perfect things, just returning the control arms to proper alignment made all the difference. This is what I installed - https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/jl-geometry-correction-brackets/

Just seems odd that it’s now appearing after driving for 10000 miles on the lift. It does seem like something is loose/worn out.

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[Deleted member 30519]

I had a really loose drag link after messing around on some big snow banks last winter. I had to specifically tell them to do the drag link because I knew that was the problem. I could literally shake it with my hand. They tightened everything and I haven't had an issue since.

 

[NCLife]

Just seems odd that it’s now appearing after driving for 10000 miles on the lift. It does seem like something is loose/worn out.

Valid point. Maybe someone can offer some other ideas. Take to the dealer to have it looked at? I assume you're under warranty.

 

[FutureOdin]

Dealership didn't find anything, said everything was tight. So, back down the rabbit hole I go.

Ended up ordering Steer Smarts tie rod + drag link, may give that a go to see if that fixes the issue. Going to swap out to a set of Sport S wheels + tires, as well as maybe install the stock steering stabilizer again to see if that makes a difference.

 

[scoobycarolanNC]

Updating my last post after installing the terafelx drag link and tie rod. The steering has definitely improved and the shimmy is gone. I had a specific spot that I would would get a little wobble and it's gone now after the upgrades.

FYI Teraflex track bar, drag link, tie rod, MOPAR 2", AEV geo brackets, EVO rear track bar

HOLD UP. The Mopar kit comes with longer control arms so you DO NOT run control arm brackets. You probably have too much caster now. The brackets are usually only for stock arms. Do you have an alignment sheet that shows your numbers?

 

[RodRecket]

HOLD UP. The Mopar kit comes with longer control arms so you DO NOT run control arm brackets. You probably have too much caster now. The brackets are usually only for stock arms. Do you have an alignment sheet that shows your numbers?

Using stock arms. I tried both to see the difference. Caster with mopar extended (1/4" longer) was 7.3

 

[Moonshineheadache]

I've been fighting the situation described by the OP since day 1 of ownership. The vehicle came from the dealer with the Mopar 2 inch and 35's already installed. My first change was the Fox TS steering stabilizer - very little difference. Next came the Steer Smart XD track bar - about the same. Finally, I was able to get the TSB for the steering box completed and I was thinking this had to be it, but only a marginal improvement. Recently, I installed the Rancho Geo correction brackets and this has been the best improvement so far! Money well spent. My setup is still not as good as I would have hoped, but at least I'm making progress. I might pull the trigger as others have suggested and do the tie rod and drag link. I'm still dreaming of having a truck that drives a little closer to what the price tag suggests.

 

[FutureOdin]

I've been fighting the situation described by the OP since day 1 of ownership. The vehicle came from the dealer with the Mopar 2 inch and 35's already installed. My first change was the Fox TS steering stabilizer - very little difference. Next came the Steer Smart XD track bar - about the same. Finally, I was able to get the TSB for the steering box completed and I was thinking this had to be it, but only a marginal improvement. Recently, I installed the Rancho Geo correction brackets and this has been the best improvement so far! Money well spent. My setup is still not as good as I would have hoped, but at least I'm making progress. I might pull the trigger as others have suggested and do the tie rod and drag link. I'm still dreaming of having a truck that drives a little closer to what the price tag suggests.

That sucks, I know the feeling... I'm just puzzled as to why I'm experiencing it not, nearly 10000 miles after I installed the 2" lift + 315s.

I swapped on a set of JL Sport S tires, and it rides a bit better, but have yet to see if the shimmy is gone (only done a few short trips). It definitely confirmed that my 315s need to be balanced again, as I was getting a slight shake around 58 MPH. Ended up getting a set of Quadratec Morphic rims (as the 315s are just too wide for the stock rims to my liking anyways) and will get them road-force balanced when they come in.

I'll probably have them check the alignment, too--I'm curious what my caster is currently set at.

Awaiting on the rest of the pieces to install the Yeti XD tie rod + draglink.

 

[RiverMtnBeach]

This is what I installed - https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/jl-geometry-correction-brackets/

Been looking at these to correct what my mechanic said I described as "jounce" (sensitivity to concrete seams that seem to kick the front back) with a slight bump-steer to the right most likely caused by stock trackbar. Are your LCA's stock length? Wondering if I would need to ditch the Mopar 2" kit's longer LCA's for stock, or just keep and combine the two for even more caster angle.

 

[RiverMtnBeach]

I've been fighting the situation described by the OP since day 1 of ownership. The vehicle came from the dealer with the Mopar 2 inch and 35's already installed. My first change was the Fox TS steering stabilizer - very little difference. Next came the Steer Smart XD track bar - about the same. Finally, I was able to get the TSB for the steering box completed and I was thinking this had to be it, but only a marginal improvement. Recently, I installed the Rancho Geo correction brackets and this has been the best improvement so far! Money well spent. My setup is still not as good as I would have hoped, but at least I'm making progress. I might pull the trigger as others have suggested and do the tie rod and drag link. I'm still dreaming of having a truck that drives a little closer to what the price tag suggests.

Very helpful, thanks! Did you keep the Mopar extended LCAs or get some stock ones? Seriously considering the AEV geo brackets after reading this thread! I'm still amazed at how well it rides with all that rolling unsprung mass going on, but like you the "Jeep ride" doesn't fit the price tag for passengers (or those who jump in the drivers' seat and have never driven a jeep before :D)

 

[NCLife]

Been looking at these to correct what my mechanic said I described as "jounce" (sensitivity to concrete seams that seem to kick the front back) with a slight bump-steer to the right most likely caused by stock trackbar. Are your LCA's stock length? Wondering if I would need to ditch the Mopar 2" kit's longer LCA's for stock, or just keep and combine the two for even more caster angle.

I have the adjustable LCA's set longer and I have high caster. It drives amazing.

 

[jc99]

I have the adjustable LCA's set longer and I have high caster. It drives amazing.

NCLife What is your caster set at?

 

[NCLife]

NCLife What is your caster set at?

I have no idea...I can check it tomorrow

 

[OHJeeper]

Using stock arms. I tried both to see the difference. Caster with mopar extended (1/4" longer) was 7.3

That seems WAY to much... I had a terrible DW issue with my daughter's JK. I installed the correction brackets and "turned it up to 11" (3rd hole in the UCA bracket). I measured her caster at 7.3 and her wobble was worse... turned it back to 6, which doesn't seem like much, but it made a world of difference.

 

[Mjolnir]

This is absolutely bump steer caused by either the tires or stabilizer. Possibly could be slightly loose steering component though.

Check all torque settings and fix tire air/rotate tires if you haven't for a bit. Drive. If still there,

Switch stabilizer. Drive. One of these things will fix it.

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