For those of you running 37s

[DocMcStuffins]

Those are both 37’s???

Yup!

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[shredX]

Yup!

That is crazy!!! I was planning 37" KO2's vs KM3's. Assume they will be just as small.

 

[DocMcStuffins]

That is crazy!!! I was planning 37" KO2's vs KM3's. Assume they will be just as small.

It is crazy. Granted- I only had a few thousand miles/few rock crawling trips on mine, and my brother-in-law definitely has more miles/trips (not exactly sure how many miles). Regardless, my 37's dwarfed his 37's.

 

[Trailman]

Yah- mine dwarf my brother-in-laws KM2 37s!

I love the look of those but feel like they would be crap on snow. You done anything in the Sierras in winter on them?

 

[DocMcStuffins]

I love the look of those but feel like they would be crap on snow. You done anything in the Sierras in winter on them?

They weren't totally crap in snow- but definitely dug more than floated. Pretty narrow as well at 11.5", even down to 9lbs of air. We were in over 3" of snow and did get further than all the other rigs out there that day, but my brother-in-laws 37 KM2's in the picture definitely did significantly better, plus they are on a much lighter YJ rig.

 

[GEETCH]

If you want to tuck inside the stock fenders and still have a bit of poke I suggest a (your choice) x9 wheel and +12-+18 offset . It will tuck and clear a 12.50 on a stock arm or aftermarket arms with a clearance bend.
You can clear bigger rubber 13.50 or 38s but it gets tight at the lca on lock. I started out with 37x12.50 on a 17x9 +18, worked great. Now running same wheels with 38x13.50 and it's right at the lca on lock . Honestly I would recommend going with a 17x8.5 0 offset as it only moves you out another 1/2" and picks up 3/4" ish on the backside. This will allow for future growth in the tire size and steering dept.

So I should have no issues with a zero offset with backspace of 4.75” running 37s. That’s good news, I’ve been looking at tire and wheel packages and will probably pull the trigger next month.
The factory tires are doing good, however, I want the extra clearance while off roading, thanks for your input.

 

[JD101]

Zero offset is fine , but if you want to maximize back side clearance and tuck the tire as much as possible zero offset 8.5" wheel width is where it's at . Gives you the best blend of wheel width , front , and backside clearance. Remember a zero offset 9" wheel has a different backspace than a zero offset 8.5 wheel , and so on.

 

[Geoarch]

Icon Rebound 17x8.5 4.75" backspacing 0 offset. Regular sport Dana 44s. Toyo Open Country RT 37"x12.5" like real ones they measure out just barely under 37". You can look on my build profile for media flexing it out and poke. Zero complaints there. My lift was a bit over 4.5". You are likely 4" given you already had a Rubicon and added 2.5". I wanted to upgrade the brakes cuz 37" tires and wheels definitely made braking sketchier. Needed to make sure I had 4.5"-4.75" of backspacing at a minimum to fit my big brake kit.

Is that the math? If you have a Rubicon and install the Mopar 2" lift it gets you 4". Is that over say a Sport. I ask because I ordered 315/70-17 Kanati Trail Hogs and Ion 17X9 wheels with a 0 offset. I assume that will work. Now they have to finish building my damn Rubicon. I realize that the stock wheels are over +40 offset, but I wanted to get more articulation in that direction. I've struggled with my Tacoma (for sale) even with 31s and no lift. I don't know what the offset on the TRDPro wheels are (sorry for digressing).

 

[Geoarch]

Zero offset is fine , but if you want to maximize back side clearance and tuck the tire as much as possible zero offset 8.5" wheel width is where it's at . Gives you the best blend of wheel width , front , and backside clearance. Remember a zero offset 9" wheel has a different backspace than a zero offset 8.5 wheel , and so on.

How much difference: 0 offset on a 8.5" versus a 9". Is there a formula for that?

 

[Geoarch]

Just about anything on the plus side down to 0 will keep you with minimal poke. At 0 you are looking to be about a tread block out from the fender. I run the JK AEV borahs 17x8.5 which are +4 on my Rubicon and they poke the 37’s out about 1 tread block past the fenders.
but the offset/BS depends on the wheel width you want to run.

" a tread block out from the fender" You mean with 37X12.50s?

 

[GEETCH]

Thanks

Zero offset is fine , but if you want to maximize back side clearance and tuck the tire as much as possible zero offset 8.5" wheel width is where it's at . Gives you the best blend of wheel width , front , and backside clearance. Remember a zero offset 9" wheel has a different backspace than a zero offset 8.5 wheel , and so on.

Thanks, for the tires I want, the look and performance, I have decided to go with a 17” by 8.5” wheel, I was lost in the offset, really appreciate your feedback.

I am now narrowing down the brand and style of the wheels. Heres what I have in mind so far:

 

[Mac]

Just for a reference point this is +25 17x8.5 wheel with a 35x10.5 tire, I would say no poke to very little poke but it is subjective.

 

[GEETCH]

Though I know the pic shows the tires 13.5” I’m looking for a 12.5” just to clarify. Was looking at the packages at 3am and was a little tired lol.

 

[OHJeeper]

How much difference: 0 offset on a 8.5" versus a 9". Is there a formula for that?

Try this, I use it all the time and it takes away the guesswork and bad math on my part ?

https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

 

[JD101]

Just for a reference point this is +25 17x8.5 wheel with a 35x10.5 tire, I would say no poke to very little poke but it is subjective.

Remember Rubicon's have wider axles ( unless you have a max tow) . Also Rubicon fenders are slightly wider I believe . I honestly haven't compared fender coverage in relation to axle width between the narrow and wide setups tho.

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