How hard have you pushed your stock Gladiator?

[WILDHOBO]

We plan on taking the Gladiator all over the western US in the next 12 months.

Big Bend, several Utah national parks, lots of Arizona parks and forests, California deserts, Nevada deserts. You get the idea.

The wife is of the opinion that we just dropped a load of money on buying it, so no more spending. Which I get. 35s will be bought come time to replace the stock wildpeaks.

Curious to see how many of you have run a stock suspension/wheel set up on big trips and how it’s held up.

If you’re not planning on serious rock crawling, you’ll never need an upgrade in my opinion. That’s from personal experience with a 2021 rubicon that has done some reasonable rock crawling when it was bone stock. If I didn’t want more ground clearance for tougher trails, I wouldn’t have upgraded it. I’ve pushed it very hard when bone stock, and it didn’t blink. Other than the winch and bumper, these pictures show a stock rubicon.

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[DCPHOENIX]

Those are some seriously cool pictures!

 

[WILDHOBO]

Those are some seriously cool pictures!

Every minute in that thing is fun. I did lift ours, as I quickly found out how much I like rock crawling, but it’s not necessary. It’s an amazing vehicle that will surprise you with what it can do. We bought it to be a more capable overland towing rig for camping than our Cherokee was. It does that easily, and so much more. Even without the lift, I’d still do a winch, but I personally like being able to self recover. We do so much camping where we’re alone, that the piece of mind is important to me. Other than that, you’ve got 11” of ground clearance I believe, with your stock wildpeak 32.8” tires. Go have fun with it.

 

[WILDHOBO]

If you install a tazer you can run lockers in 2H

With a 2021+ rubicon you can use the rear locker in 4H without the Tazer. I’m not sure where that would be helpful, but it’s cool that you can do it.

 

[chorky]

Those are some seriously cool pictures!

One thing you could consider is doing the factory MOPAR lift. It's 2 inches, so modest, and gives more clearance to be a little more peace of mind Now, the Rubi can take 35's without a lift - but after having 35's on my old truck I wouldn't want them. They're much too wide IMO, heavier, more expensive, lower fuel mileage, lesser traction in ice/snow, etc.... So you could do more with the mopar one if you wanted to. But you could also keep 33's. I asked somebody to send pics of the mopar 2" with the stock 33's and I think it looks great, and if you did not install the extended bump stops you would take advantage of even more suspension travel - depending on shock lengths. that is a option I may take anyway. Plus, it is MOPAR so for those worried about voiding warranties (even though it really wouldn't) then you might have more 'security' being a factory installed accessory. However, I think a engine/trans skid would be much preferred over a lift. Even without rocks, a stick could get jammed up into the oil pan and make for a very bad day.

This is not mine - I stole it from someone who posted it by my request on a different thread, I cannot remember who this belongs to. Factory 33" wheels with the MOPAR 2" lift - I think this looks amazing personally. more proportioned and functional than 35's

With a 2021+ rubicon you can use the rear locker in 4H without the Tazer. I’m not sure where that would be helpful, but it’s cool that you can do it.

Rear locker in 2H would be helpful in loose gravel going up steep inclines - or so for me it would be anyway, I frequently experience that. Often not wanting 4x4 due to twisty roads at the same time. Thus the love I have for my TJ being able to be in 2L. It is truly amazing and once experienced I doubt anyone would not want to have it.

 

[WILDHOBO]

One thing you could consider is doing the factory MOPAR lift. It's 2 inches, so modest, and gives more clearance to be a little more peace of mind Now, the Rubi can take 35's without a lift - but after having 35's on my old truck I wouldn't want them. They're much too wide IMO, heavier, more expensive, lower fuel mileage, lesser traction in ice/snow, etc.... So you could do more with the mopar one if you wanted to. But you could also keep 33's. I asked somebody to send pics of the mopar 2" with the stock 33's and I think it looks great, and if you did not install the extended bump stops you would take advantage of even more suspension travel - depending on shock lengths. that is a option I may take anyway. Plus, it is MOPAR so for those worried about voiding warranties (even though it really wouldn't) then you might have more 'security' being a factory installed accessory. However, I think a engine/trans skid would be much preferred over a lift. Even without rocks, a stick could get jammed up into the oil pan and make for a very bad day.

This is not mine - I stole it from someone who posted it by my request on a different thread, I cannot remember who this belongs to. Factory 33" wheels with the MOPAR 2" lift - I think this looks amazing personally. more proportioned and functional than 35's

Rear locker in 2H would be helpful in loose gravel going up steep inclines - or so for me it would be anyway, I frequently experience that. Often not wanting 4x4 due to twisty roads at the same time. Thus the love I have for my TJ being able to be in 2L. It is truly amazing and once experienced I doubt anyone would not want to have it.

Makes sense. I just use 4H auto for a very similar effect. Essentially 2H with 4H when there’s slippage. 2L would be amazing.

 

[Lost_In_The_Woods]

We plan on taking the Gladiator all over the western US in the next 12 months.

Big Bend, several Utah national parks, lots of Arizona parks and forests, California deserts, Nevada deserts. You get the idea.

The wife is of the opinion that we just dropped a load of money on buying it, so no more spending. Which I get. 35s will be bought come time to replace the stock wildpeaks.

Curious to see how many of you have run a stock suspension/wheel set up on big trips and how it’s held up.

You should be good as long as you don't plan on running something like Steel Bender in Moab. I ran over Engineer Pass completely stock and a little on the heavy side and had no problems. I did rub belly a few times but nothing major.

 

[Oneshotlucky]

You should be good as long as you don't plan on running something like Steel Bender in Moab. I ran over Engineer Pass completely stock and a little on the heavy side and had no problems. I did rub belly a few times but nothing major.

Do it right the first time. Spend the money on a 2.5 in Metal Cloak gamer changer with shocks. Front diff rear diff skids, LCA and shock skids oh! And quick disconnects! Front. You will be happy! I went with odd ball 34’s BFGS and I’m smoking it on and off road. I’ll post pics soon. Best 6k ever spend to get my Jeep to do what I want where I want. Oh yes, also a winch and bumper for the ‘hard’ bits!!

 

[DCPHOENIX]

Do it right the first time. Spend the money on a 2.5 in Metal Cloak gamer changer with shocks. Front diff rear diff skids, LCA and shock skids oh! And quick disconnects! Front. You will be happy! I went with odd ball 34’s BFGS and I’m smoking it on and off road. I’ll post pics soon. Best 6k ever spend to get my Jeep to do what I want where I want. Oh yes, also a winch and bumper for the ‘hard’ bits!!

Yeah $6000 isn’t going to cut it with the wife lol

 

[DCPHOENIX]

So if I’m not mistaken. My Rubicon already has some skids underneath?

 

[chorky]

So if I’m not mistaken. My Rubicon already has some skids underneath?

yeah but basic. one for the gas tank and transfer case. the oil pan and transmission are kinda exposed. I think you can get a skid for a couple hundred bucks and an easy install. lots of options to choose from

 

[WILDHOBO]

So if I’m not mistaken. My Rubicon already has some skids underneath?

You have basic steel skids that will serve you fine it not doing serious rock crawling. You also already have an electric sway bar disconnect that works very well. You’re good. If you’re worried about departure angle, a hitch skid will protect you a ton for very little money. Ignore the dog leash.

 

[jeepstertim]

I'm overlanding mine from Qatar to the UK and equally didn't want to go mad and I wanted to keep my MPG as high as possible as fuel in europe/ UK is bonkers (much more so than even your increased prices).

I have gone to 35" BFG KO2s (a smaller 35 and light), a 1.5 level and a .75 spacer at the rear and longer LCAs, which has given me the ride height I was looking for. MPG has remained much the same averaging 19.37mpg (app calcs) over the last 6 months.

The JTR still drags its belly occasionally but not enough to need to go higher ATM. The spacer lift has retained the ride and most importantly was cost effective.

 

[ElkinsEye]

I'm overlanding mine from Qatar to the UK....

Gorgeous pics! Except that looks more like Mojave terrain than Rubi
Safe travels on your journey!

 

[JTBurns]

Im not stock but have a Sports with Rubicon shocks, springs, wheels and tires added. I've got a couple of skid plates but want a few more. Rusty's LCA skids are a must, that's one of the lowest hanging parts and gets hit. For $89, totally worth it, and can install yourself. When these tires wear down I will go to 35's and use a spacer lift and or level kit to accomodate that. Pic of an LCA skid after an outing last week on green trails:

And the toughest obstacle I've tackled:

This side steps are getting in my way too. I'm gonna either modify them or swap out for sliders.

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