Making Center Console USB Switched

[sharpsicle]

I was not fully understanding your description of how you wired it. If you could post pictures of which wires are connected and go to which fuse slots.

The most recent picture is really the best to do this with. For reference this picture of the fusebox was taken from the passenger side of the truck. The windshield is to my left, front grill is to my right.

F96 (left side of picture, firewall side of fuse box) is the power mirror fuse. I installed the fuse tap on this fuse location. In the white box are the two fuses installed in the tap, the top is the blue 15A that goes to the USB circuit and the bottom is the red 10A for the power mirror circuit. I connected the lead from the fuse tap to the "right" or vehicle forward side of the USB fuse location F102.

**EDIT: Newer models may have USB on Fuse 11. Check your diagram to confirm**

It is absolutely critical that you have the F102 connector exactly like I have it in the photo above: the firewall side of that fuse connector needs to remain unconnected to anything else. You want to supply power to the forward (right in the photo) side of the fuse connection only. Otherwise you'll have constant power backfeeding through the fuse tap to the ACC powered circuits. This will likely blow the 15A fuse immediately.

The wire itself is a combination of a fuse tap and the "ecu repair" fuse adapter mentioned earlier. These fuses are Micro2 size fuses. I simply cut the micro end from the "ecu repair" adapter and soldered it to the fuse tap. So long as you have the end result oriented like I have in the photo above, you'll be good to go.

Hope this helps clarify what I did.

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[amoyer_01]

The most recent picture is really the best to do this with. For reference this picture of the fusebox was taken from the passenger side of the truck. The windshield is to my left, front grill is to my right.

F96 (left side of picture, firewall side of fuse box) is the power mirror fuse. I installed the fuse tap on this fuse location. In the white box are the two fuses installed in the tap, the top is the blue 15A that goes to the USB circuit and the bottom is the red 10A for the power mirror circuit. I connected the lead from the fuse tap to the "right" or vehicle forward side of the USB fuse location F102.

It is absolutely critical that you have the F102 connector exactly like I have it in the photo above: the firewall side of that fuse connector needs to remain unconnected to anything else. You want to supply power to the forward (right in the photo) side of the fuse connection only. Otherwise you'll have constant power backfeeding through the fuse tap to the ACC powered circuits. This will likely blow the 15A fuse immediately.

The wire itself is a combination of a fuse tap and the "ecu repair" fuse adapter mentioned earlier. These fuses are Micro2 size fuses. I simply cut the micro end from the "ecu repair" adapter and soldered it to the fuse tap. So long as you have the end result oriented like I have in the photo above, you'll be good to go.

Hope this helps clarify what I did.

Thanks that is really helpful and clear. I will have to try this when I get a carplay adapter.

 

[sharpsicle]

So I discovered today that if you take the doors off, this solution will stop working because without the doors the Jeep doesn't send power through the mirror circuit. Makes sense, since with the doors off the power mirrors are gone. That was just something I didn't consider when doing this the first time.

To keep this working right, I moved the fuse tap to fuse F53 (Wireless Speaker). Same concept, just a different spot. See the photos below. This way, the USB's are switched even with the doors off. The Wireless Speaker is a non-critical circuit so that makes it a great candidate for something like this, as the worst case scenario is that your bluetooth speaker stops charging (assuming you have one). I don't have one, so it doesn't matter to me.

**EDIT: Newer models may have USB on Fuse 11. Check your diagram to confirm**

Again, note the orientations on both sides of this jumper to make sure each line is properly protected and not back feeding anywhere. And even though it might look like the fuse tap is too close to the edge, it doesn't interfere with the fuse box cover closing up and sealing like it should.

 

[jrf]

And cross posting from the other thread there was or is now a setting in the AA wireless device that will detect when the vehicle is off and it can't talk to uconnect that it will shutdown the wireless services. I'm glad there are a few solutions to this. I will probably also end up doing the fuse solution as to just shut off power completely.

 

[Aberk]

And cross posting from the other thread there was or is now a setting in the AA wireless device that will detect when the vehicle is off and it can't talk to uconnect that it will shutdown the wireless services. I'm glad there are a few solutions to this. I will probably also end up doing the fuse solution as to just shut off power completely.

What setting is this? I can't seem to find it with the latest update.

 

[Cruizer8]

What setting is this? I can't seem to find it with the latest update.

I have the AA wireless device (not the Motorola version) and in the settings it is labeled "Start/Stop"

 

[Aberk]

I have the AA wireless device (not the Motorola version) and in the settings it is labeled "Start/Stop"

Thanks! Now I can take the aluminum foil off that was reducing the wifi signal!

 

[JTR178]

Hope this helps clarify what I did.

I made one of these last night and it works flawlessly. Thanks for taking the time to figure it out.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Does fuse F53 have delayed accessory power (stays hot until door is opened)?
If not would using the radio fuse (F97 I believe) be an option to have this feature?

 

[sharpsicle]

I believe the radio is always hot. The unit turns itself off when the door opens, but the fuse always has power. The radio does it's own on/off switching. You wouldn't want to use F97 for this setup.

That being said, the fuse I'm using (F53) appears to have the delay off feature you're looking for. I've turned the engine off and still had the wireless AA working until the door was opened.

 

[mquetel]

This is a great mod. Thanks for sharing a detailed writeup and pictures!

 

[Midnight Rider]

First some background:
2020 Sport S, 7” radio, 7/19 build date.
Iphone 11 running iOS 15.6, using Apple Music & an Ottocast U2Now wireless CarPlay adapter in the console usb with a usb a - usb c adapter.
The problem I’m having is that when I’m anywhere around the JT, my phone will connect & music starts playing with the ignition OFF.For instance, when I’m putting my grandsons in their car seats. Or if I’m in my shop, my phone will disconnect from my (non Jeep) Bluetooth speaker & start playing through the Jeep speakers with the ignition off.
I’ve tried the above set up & I’m still having the same issues. I’ve even tried moving the fuse tap to f52 which is the 12v power port on the dash, same thing happens.
I’m scratching my head. Any ideas anyone?
Thanks in advance.

 

[sharpsicle]

First some background:
2020 Sport S, 7” radio, 7/19 build date.
Iphone 11 running iOS 15.6, using Apple Music & an Ottocast U2Now wireless CarPlay adapter in the console usb with a usb a - usb c adapter.
The problem I’m having is that when I’m anywhere around the JT, my phone will connect & music starts playing with the ignition OFF.For instance, when I’m putting my grandsons in their car seats. Or if I’m in my shop, my phone will disconnect from my (non Jeep) Bluetooth speaker & start playing through the Jeep speakers with the ignition off.
I’ve tried the above set up & I’m still having the same issues. I’ve even tried moving the fuse tap to f52 which is the 12v power port on the dash, same thing happens.
I’m scratching my head. Any ideas anyone?
Thanks in advance.

This sounds like a problem with the radio more than anything else. In order for it to connect and start playing, the radio needs to be on. The radio always has power, it turns itself on/off based on the truck's power state, so this leads me to think there's something going on with the uconnect that's causing it to turn on/stay on when it shouldn't. Likely something that will need to be looked at under warranty.

EDIT: Even without this mod from this thread, what you're describing should never happen. I would reset all the fuses in the fusebox to factory, and if it still does it, take it in and have Jeep look at it. The issue this mod solves is the constant attempts to connect your phone to the radio while it's off, but the radio shouldn't be responding and playing at any time with the ignition off and you out of the truck.

 

[Midnight Rider]

I’m following what you’re saying but per the Ottocast instructions I unpaired my phone/music player from the radio before pairing it with the wireless adapter. All music, phone calls etc. go through the adapter. And if I physically unplug the adapter from the usb, none of this happens. My thinking was by making the USB port switched, I wouldn’t have this issue anymore. But it seems like even with the fuse tap on a switched circuit I’m still getting power to the USB port with the ignition off. That’s where I’m getting confused.

 

[sharpsicle]

From what I know, the switched circuits all act the same way, so if one switched circuit that you've done the fuse tap on isn't turning off, then others aren't either. This could bleed over into the radio, hence why it will start playing music with the truck off.

I would remove any of the fuse taps from the fuse box and get it back to factory setup. I would then make sure I could replicate the problem any time I wanted, and then show that problem to the dealership so they can hunt down the source. It sounds like there's something at the root of this beyond the radio/USB connections.

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