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Deisel lift specifics

Clayton Off Road

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Why is the Mopar kit sagging? Springs not up to the task even with the increased spring rate?

I am definitely leaning towards the Clayton Ride Right. Can always add the rest of the control arms later. Im mostly curious about the Fox shocks that Clayton supplies. My nephew has Fox shocks (not sure which ones exactly) on his JKUR and that thing rides horribly.

On the towing, its not like I am going to tow a 6000 lb camper across country like most of the guys on this forum but I have multiple work trailers so I need it to be up to the task for some short tows, some long ones. I pulled a Ram 1500 on my 14k all steel car hauler about 6 blocks. It was a bit of a struggle 😁

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Our coil springs are designed using a little bit higher of a spring rate, both for ride quality and weight management purposes, and they work great for both daily driving and towing!

We sell both Fox and Falcon shocks along with our kits, and both pair excellent with our springs and we've received nothing but great feedback on the combinations :)

Always happy to talk or answer any questions regarding our kits or shocks if you have any! Feel free to reach out either by PM or give us a call, 203 691 8593.
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@californiajeeping

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I went with the metal cloak dual rate with rocksport shocks.

Why? Every other option was much more expensive once you priced in shocks. Plus i drove about 15 minutes and picked it up at their warehouse.

The only thing with a lower cost is like superlift or something.

Clayton is awesome but once you add shocks the cost gets quite high. I would have preferred a clayton lift TBH for their bent rear track bar.

My jeep has stock sport wheels and tires currently but the metal cloak true dual rate 3.5" lift rides exactly like stock EXCEPT it no longer bottoms out all the time and huge potholes just get soaked up without harsh jarring. If i was loading it up with super heavy loads I would choose clayton because metal cloak doesnt use a true diesel front spring they simply add spacers on top of their 4.5" JLUR springs. This does have the affect of making the front softer than most lift kits but obviously reduces your payload.
 
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Our coil springs are designed using a little bit higher of a spring rate, both for ride quality and weight management purposes, and they work great for both daily driving and towing!

We sell both Fox and Falcon shocks along with our kits, and both pair excellent with our springs and we've received nothing but great feedback on the combinations :)

Always happy to talk or answer any questions regarding our kits or shocks if you have any! Feel free to reach out either by PM or give us a call, 203 691 8593.
Thank you for the reply. What does the front lift end up at vs the rear? Does the truck end up fairly level?
 
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I went with the metal cloak dual rate with rocksport shocks.

Why? Every other option was much more expensive once you priced in shocks. Plus i drove about 15 minutes and picked it up at their warehouse.

The only thing with a lower cost is like superlift or something.

Clayton is awesome but once you add shocks the cost gets quite high. I would have preferred a clayton lift TBH for their bent rear track bar.

My jeep has stock sport wheels and tires currently but the metal cloak true dual rate 3.5" lift rides exactly like stock EXCEPT it no longer bottoms out all the time and huge potholes just get soaked up without harsh jarring. If i was loading it up with super heavy loads I would choose clayton because metal cloak doesnt use a true diesel front spring they simply add spacers on top of their 4.5" JLUR springs. This does have the affect of making the front softer than most lift kits but obviously reduces your payload.
There is about a $400 difference between the MC and Clayton kits once you add shocks. Do you feel like the 3.5" from Metalcloak is too much? I definitely dont want any driveline vibrations from too much lift and dont feel like paying another $769 for a front driveshaft.

I like Metalcloak but squishing down taller coil springs under more weight doesnt feel like the best route...
 

Clayton Off Road

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Thank you for the reply. What does the front lift end up at vs the rear? Does the truck end up fairly level?
No problem! The front coil springs sit slightly taller than advertised in order to remove about an inch of factory rake. We don't level out the vehicle completely, but we do get rid of a good bit of the rake for a better more aggressive-looking stance. :like:
 

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@californiajeeping

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There is about a $400 difference between the MC and Clayton kits once you add shocks. Do you feel like the 3.5" from Metalcloak is too much? I definitely dont want any driveline vibrations from too much lift and dont feel like paying another $769 for a front driveshaft.

I like Metalcloak but squishing down taller coil springs under more weight doesnt feel like the best route...
No vibrations from the metal cloak it gave an adequate amount of lift without it being too much.
If you disconnect your sway bars and play off-road you have to get a driveshaft with all the lifts. If you do fire roads your fine without it for awhile.
 

3VOLVE

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Anyone with the Clayton Ride Right and Fox 2.0s?
I’m running 2.0 Fox w. Reservoirs on my JTRD and I find they are comfortable both on and off-road while being predictable when and where needed. The below pic is was installed prior to the release of their diesel springs, which will be on order soon to reduce some of the rake.

67A4F05B-2FFF-45F6-9603-BABEEF25687B.jpeg
 

BlueScapegoat

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It sounds like your use case is a lot like mine... I DD the rubi glad and wanted to maintain a factory ride, fit 37s, and keep a rake to haul/tow with it. I also have a TJ that I use for more hardcore wheeling.

I just did a 2" spacer. Like the AEV, but I went with Iron Rock Off Road instead, particularly because they're local to me. It's nice the spacers are steel as well. Their kit is spring and shock spacers only. Added the Mopar LCAs for caster at $29 a pop. Still need to get some sway links, the factory ones are really at their limit at 2".

Anyway, nothing will rub, still has full travel, still rides like stock. I was planning track bars but at 2" I don't even notice the offset and nothing rubs at lock with my wheels anyway, so really no point. Sits low enough to fit in my garage and most parking garages in the area.

Now I really want to put together a hybrid lift, Currie arms, Clayton springs, King shocks, 39s, but I'm trying to convince myself not to do that. That's how my TJ became a not-so-great to daily driver. :CWL: We'll see how long I can hold out.
 

Jefe1018

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With about 300-400 lbs of tongue weight I don’t see more than an inch or two of sag, FWIW. Mopar lift on 37’s. I also have a leveling kit up front, without it it’d probably sit level.

Jeep Gladiator Deisel lift specifics 4E80F2A4-FAB1-42DA-BD94-9AA8608809AD


Wish I had better pics, but I’m usually too busy hooking up the trailer and having a blast. This pic is probably about 200lbs-300lbs of tongue weight.
 

nas4a

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No sag on my mopar lift.
slightly more firm than stock.
No need for adjustable trackbars.

Can run 37s no problem.

I did add a 1/2” spacer up front to compensate for steel bumper with winch. It has just a touch less rake than factory.
Same here. Same lift, tires, and spacer - Warn Evo winch up front too, along with an aftermarket steel bumper.
 

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Randonexplosion

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Thanks for the responses guys. Im loving the pics of white JT Rubicons 🍻

Feel free to post more unloaded pics with tire brand/size and wheel specs as well.
 

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Any of you guys know if the REAR TRACK BAR is the same on the diesel as it is on the gasser ? Thanks
 
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I went ahead and took advantage of the holiday sales and the forum discount and I ordered the @Clayton Off Road 2.5" Ride Right and the Fox 2.0s. I also went to my local tire shop and they had a better price on 37" BFG KO2s than anywhere online and they price matched the sale price on a set of Method 305s in matte black.

Looking forward to everything coming in so I can get it installed.

Anyone know if a set of geometry correction brackets would be beneficial with the Clayton setup?
 

SargeDiesel

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As far as I know all of the suspension links are the same. Why do you ask?
Getting ready to purchase a front and rear track bar.... plus .....
Several websites say they are not compatible or they don't say either way. I think It's because the manufacturer does not send the fitment information including the JTRD over to them saying that it is , so they list it just compatible with the gas JT. So what happens when you put it in your cart... it says it's not compatible.
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