Dealer overfilled oil

[MikeyK]

Did the first oil change on both my JT and the wife’s JL 3.6, and 5 qt filled it exactly to the correct spot on the dipstick, corroborating what the manual says, not that I was surprised.

Just surprised at some of the dealerships and their mindsets/practices ?

Sticking to my own maintenance like usual.

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[ShadowsPapa]

The older 3.6 required 6 qts.

The newer 3.6 requires 5 qts.

Some dealers either didn't get the memo or ignored it.

There's dealer communications that address this. They're over 2 years old.
This is one of the communications -

View attachment MC-10176472-9999.pdf

 

[49Truck]

I had the pleasant surprise of finding out after my first oil change at home that my dealer has been overfilling my engine by about a quarter and a half. That is of course unless my Jeep makes oil. I am so excited to call them on Monday and find out exactly why this is. I figured it out very scientifically. If I drain the oil out, install fresh, and then dump the old into the container the new came in it should be perfect. There shouldn't be enough to fill a quart bottle beside it and have more in it then a new jug. Old oil is on left, unopened 5qt on the right.
Just another reason to continue doing my own maintenance I guess.

The same thing happened to me on my 1st free oil change also. I checked the vehicle over good when I got back home. I drained 1 full quart of oil back out and saved it in a old oil bottle I had. The dip stick did show it was way over full. It's hard to read when overfull because it is a braided cable above the full dot. You do not want to leave it overfull. I'm sad to say I almost expect this
sort of an issue in everything and everyplace I go anymore.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The same thing happened to me on my 1st free oil change also. I checked the vehicle over good when I got back home. I drained 1 full quart of oil back out and saved it in a old oil bottle I had. The dip stick did show it was way over full. It's hard to read when overfull because it is a braided cable above the full dot. You do not want to leave it overfull. I'm sad to say I almost expect this
sort of an issue in everything and everyplace I go anymore.

It shouldn't be over-filled, but it doesn't do damage from my observations (and imagine the ordinary owners who have their JT serviced, and simply drive it until the next oil change, or don't notice it's a quart high until days or weeks or month later, if at all. These apparently have decent windage control.
If it's 1 quart over it would be roughly the same distance over the full mark that full is over the low mark.

The first time they did mine was 1 quart over as well. But then, hey, they hadn't see or worked on hardly any Gladiators at that time so it sort of made sense. It was 2, maybe 4 days later I got time and opportunity to go back to that area. I talked to the service manager, showed him the FCA info on these engines, and he instantly had it taken back and a full service done on it again. I mean all new oil, new filter, checking and making sure the fluids were topped off, the whole works.
It hasn't happened since. Yeah, I check, but that was the first, any only time, it happened to me there.

 

[jeepers29]

The dealer does all my jeep oil changes due to the crappy filter housing. If it breaks, it's on them. I always check the level in their driveway right in front of the service center before I leave. I sure am glad my dealer is one of the good ones.

 

[bd100]

The dealer does all my jeep oil changes due to the crappy filter housing. If it breaks, it's on them

Just tighten it gently until it stops. That's enough.

 

[jeepers29]

Just tighten it gently until it stops. That's enough.

I understand that but they are going to let loosw at some point and I don't want them saying not on us but those who changed the oil.

 

[ReverendZ]

I understand that but they are going to let loosw at some point and I don't want them saying not on us but those who changed the oil.

I noticed that it has the torque spec molded right into the cap. I am grateful for a good selection of wrenches from being a technician.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I noticed that it has the torque spec molded right into the cap. I am grateful for a good selection of wrenches from being a technician.

LOL - lack of tools isn't the problem, places to put them all is - or wondering if it's in my shop, if so, upstairs or main floor, or in the garage, or among the tools in the house.

 

[Sprinkler-Fitter]

I had the pleasant surprise of finding out after my first oil change at home that my dealer has been overfilling my engine by about a quarter and a half. That is of course unless my Jeep makes oil. I am so excited to call them on Monday and find out exactly why this is. I figured it out very scientifically. If I drain the oil out, install fresh, and then dump the old into the container the new came in it should be perfect. There shouldn't be enough to fill a quart bottle beside it and have more in it then a new jug. Old oil is on left, unopened 5qt on the right.
Just another reason to continue doing my own maintenance I guess.

What is a quarter and a half, do you mean a quart and a half?

 

[ReverendZ]

Yes, quart and a half... dang nabbed
Autocowreck

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yes, quart and a half... dang nabbed

Autocowreck

Yeah, smell chick and ottoman correction seldom dew well

 

[ReverendZ]

An update to the ongoing saga if anyone is following. Had it in, they stated there is definitely an issue, but want me to drive it long enough for another oil change. I had just changed it. In 4000mi it used a quart of oil and the coolant dropped in reservoir 3/8 of an inch. Almost at next change now and am down a full half inch in coolant and the noises are louder than ever. The technician thinks it is a wrist pin ?, I've destroyed big block olds cranks and know what rod knock sounds like... Super not happy. When I contacted Jeep I got no real response. If it's burning oil and the engine is going to have to come out they may as well get new cats and o2 sensors too. They also can't feel/hear the front axle vibration that presents at 60-65mph.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I had the pleasant surprise of finding out after my first oil change at home that my dealer has been overfilling my engine by about a quarter and a half

"dealer has been......" - you only know for a fact that it happened one time.
Quart I understand, but quart and a half? Naw.
1 quart won't do damage.
And again, going back in time - you only know of 1 time.

The technician thinks it is a wrist pin ?, I've destroyed big block olds cranks and know what rod knock sounds like.

You know old school V8 cast iron block heavy piston big eye'd rod sounds....... these have much smaller, lighter, thinner rods and the aluminum block makes things sound a lot different.
I've done engine work for decades, everything from piston slap, rod knock, main bearings, fuel pump rods in Chevrolets, and loose flywheels and flexplates and it can be damned tough to determine just by sound. Always best to use behavior on acceleration, deceleration, doing a brake stand and seeing how it sounds, and so on. Even after all of these years, I miss one now and then.

Here's the kicker - as long as you've had it in and complained and they wrote up a service order on it, then it's covered even after the drive train warranty is up.
A quart in 4,000 is quite a bit for these as modern engines and yet to this day Mercedes, BMW, and other famous auto makers won't talk oil consumption over only 1 quart in 4,000 miles. Yes, it's technically considered normal. I'd consider it more than usual, but if you look up the documents and training materials for some other makes - it's not an issue until it gets worse than that.

Sounds like your engine may have a problem - but by taking it in, getting an order written up, it's on record as an issue - as long as they actually wrote up a work order and went through the process. Keep any and all communications, times, dates, names and emails.

Not sure why you are upset by their comment on the sound being a "wrist pin" - because if it is, that's in your favor - they can't just replace a couple of parts on the top end and call it good. If it was me and they told me that, I'd say GOOD. You are almost guaranteed an engine for stuff like that. They won't open it up and fix something like that. Followers/rockers, cams, yeah, they'll order parts and "fix it". So I'd say "ok, whatever you say" to 'em and let it go.
You can either say "I told you so" or accept that they were correct later.


Just a point for observers - check your coolant level at the same ambient and engine temperature each time. I make a small black dot when things are cold - the engine has been sitting for 12 hours or more and the temperature is "room temp".
Our temperatures have been WILD here. It was 74 Wednesday. I checked things before taking my truck to the dealer for warranty work. Then on Thursday I let it cool off and checked again last night it was in the 60s yesterday.
Now today, I opened the hood to take a pic of some wiring and the coolant was down from what it was - because it was 19 degrees. Air pressure, air temperature, coolant temp - man, that stuff really does change with temperature. I've learned to go by average appearance over time.

 

[ReverendZ]

"dealer has been......" - you only know for a fact that it happened one time.
Quart I understand, but quart and a half? Naw.
1 quart won't do damage.
And again, going back in time - you only know of 1 time.


You know old school V8 cast iron block heavy piston big eye'd rod sounds....... these have much smaller, lighter, thinner rods and the aluminum block makes things sound a lot different.
I've done engine work for decades, everything from piston slap, rod knock, main bearings, fuel pump rods in Chevrolets, and loose flywheels and flexplates and it can be damned tough to determine just by sound. Always best to use behavior on acceleration, deceleration, doing a brake stand and seeing how it sounds, and so on. Even after all of these years, I miss one now and then.

Here's the kicker - as long as you've had it in and complained and they wrote up a service order on it, then it's covered even after the drive train warranty is up.
A quart in 4,000 is quite a bit for these as modern engines and yet to this day Mercedes, BMW, and other famous auto makers won't talk oil consumption over only 1 quart in 4,000 miles. Yes, it's technically considered normal. I'd consider it more than usual, but if you look up the documents and training materials for some other makes - it's not an issue until it gets worse than that.

Sounds like your engine may have a problem - but by taking it in, getting an order written up, it's on record as an issue - as long as they actually wrote up a work order and went through the process. Keep any and all communications, times, dates, names and emails.

Not sure why you are upset by their comment on the sound being a "wrist pin" - because if it is, that's in your favor - they can't just replace a couple of parts on the top end and call it good. If it was me and they told me that, I'd say GOOD. You are almost guaranteed an engine for stuff like that. They won't open it up and fix something like that. Followers/rockers, cams, yeah, they'll order parts and "fix it". So I'd say "ok, whatever you say" to 'em and let it go.
You can either say "I told you so" or accept that they were correct later.


Just a point for observers - check your coolant level at the same ambient and engine temperature each time. I make a small black dot when things are cold - the engine has been sitting for 12 hours or more and the temperature is "room temp".
Our temperatures have been WILD here. It was 74 Wednesday. I checked things before taking my truck to the dealer for warranty work. Then on Thursday I let it cool off and checked again last night it was in the 60s yesterday.
Now today, I opened the hood to take a pic of some wiring and the coolant was down from what it was - because it was 19 degrees. Air pressure, air temperature, coolant temp - man, that stuff really does change with temperature. I've learned to go by average appearance over time.

I understand where you are coming from on all this and do appreciate your input for sure. My Audi with 255000 miles with known lifter clatter is quieter at idle. The knocking is most present under acceleration and is ten times worse when cold. The sound is that of two little aluminum hammers slapping together. I am glad it's documented but am very skeptical about the diagnosis. I also understand the thermal displacement change of fluids under varied temperatures. For comparison, the aforementioned Audi coolant level drops about 1/4" from summer to winter, the Jeep has been losing coolant all summer since I noticed the overfill. I know correlation isn't causation and am not suspecting they are linked, just an interesting side note. Looking at the notes on the repair order, I was less than impressed with the verbiage used and the dismissal of the front axle oscillating vibration, which having worked in the industry for 20years, I know is not normal. I gave them a detailed description but the service writer did not give the technician the same info.
I do know that technicians in the field that get paid piecemeal sometimes rush through diagnostic work as it doesn't pay like gravy work does. Anecdotal evidence yes, but have seen it more than once. I just want it fixed correctly and question whether this dealer can do that without causing more issues down the road. They did good work, I think, on the right rear axle seal at 7k miles, but I question if the put correct lube in as they told me that it is really dirty when it was in for the knocking....

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