Dealers here send you videos of the work being done with proof it's your vehicle. They show the actual vehicle inspection as well
Same here with Ford. Havent had the Jeep into that dealer yet. Kinda cool to see the process.
I suppose there are enough places out there that are suspect, they want to get ahead of that and/or prove - see, we actually do it. Last video I got was them showing they actually installed my matching wheel for the spare, and rotated it into the mix for a 5 tire rotation. Figured I might as well let them do it since they had things apart anyway to swap wheels. They show brake pad thickness, checking tire tread depth, the oil draining, filter being replaced, all of it.
Use the buttons on the left front side of the steering wheel. If it currently shows the speed, then down one, then left or right as needed to show the oil life remaining. My oil analysis tests over the years have shown what Lake Speed Jr. has said - it's pretty darned accurate. GM came up with it many years ago.
The vast majority of stealerships are shady AF. Oil changes on these Jeeps are so easy and quick that I'm not sure why you would waste your time taking them in.
Because most aren't shady and step outside of your world to the world of the majority of jeep and car owners. Age, health, location, tools, HOAs and more.
You focused on when to change it for break-in, but failed to address the consumption rate. I don't care if you CAN use the same oil over 10k miles...because that's irrelevant when you run the engine dry during that OCI. The fact engines are being "designed" to consume all or more of their oil capacity within their OCI is absurd. Yeah, let me keep oil in the cargo area of my brand new vehicle because it is allowed to consume as much as a worn out engine with leaks and/or bad rings could and usually do.
Sorry, that 10K miles is not marketing BS. Modern synthetics can go that long with no issues. At least the quality oils can. I've gone many times over 7,000 miles and results come back "you could have gone farther". Oil chemistry and viscosity was fine, and wear metals not a problem.
Other than when I do an engine build, all of my factory engines have gone a couple thousand before the first change.
There's no reason other than personal preference for those short 3,000 oil change intervals. The engine won't last any longer or shorter. It's a feel good thing and nothing else. Even Lake himself said that the oil life monitor is VERY accurate. He's compared to actual oil tests. For some, such as myself, the OLM will hit 0% before 10,000 miles, closer to 8,000 miles - towing, shorter drives and so on - they are based on science.
It's a scare tactic to suggest anyone must or should change the oil so soon. It won't last longer, or last less miles. There's no reason to not change the first oil before 2,000 miles, no reason not to. There's more crap floating around about oil and changes than fact, even at the dealerships.
These oil threads and oil change interval threads always become a load of BS with all of the "it will be better with........." things. You can change the first oil at 100 miles if you want, or 5,000 and it won't matter much. Does anyone here actually think that the MAJORITY of all new vehicles sold get their oil changed before the first interval in the book? No. Many will go 5,000-10,000 on the first oil and each change after that. Forums are far far far from representative of what's REALY out there, and yet forums seem to believe they speak for majorities. Hardly, not even close.
I can't even begin to recall all of my cars and trucks that have gone over 100,000 miles, even 200,000 miles on original engines.
If you break engines in as I've outlined here for over 5 years, you won't have an issue - and break-in happens much faster than people believe. When I return a car to the owner after an engine rebuild, it is broken in and they can drive it in any way they wish, as long as they vary the RPM in the first miles.
I am not disagreeing with you about AMSOIL Signature Series motor oil. However, someone who switches to AMSOIL Signature Series should know the details. For a vehicle that is past warranty and is taken off-road, the price-per-mile and time savings can't be beat.
I don’t disagree with anything you posted on your tech sheet reproduction. Some Amsoil formulas are API certified, some are not but the reason the Signature series for example is not API certified is because of the robust reformulation Amsoil does followed by rigorous testing, it’s costly to recert every time. But yes, it’s a personal choice and I only offered up my 40 years+ of experience resulting in zero issues plus data and pics I’ve seen of engine head rebuilds after 100-200k miles with virtually no wear on piston walls indicating protection is robust. But, the warranty thing is a consideration; with manufacturers looking for any excuse not to cover issues (you stood on the left foot instead of the right foot and sneezed
), if a person isn’t comfortable with in warranty amsoil oil changes to the best synthetic, that is cool. Sometimes covering your personal bases is the best choice for many.
