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KX L

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Is it safe to drive at 4000 rpm’s for prolonged period of time (1 hour)?
It is. Obviously slightly more wear and tear on the engine but the manufacture testing would encompass much higher and longer rpms to confirm the warranty before mass production. As the engine has been out for years this just reinforces the stoutness of it.
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Co Jeeper

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Thanks for the feedback, for some context I drive to the CO mountains 2-3 a month on the weekends and am generally taking I70, which climbs to 11K feet at one point. 4th gear can’t keep speed (65-70) so on all the climbs I’m generally in 3rd around 65 to ensure I can hold my speed and accelerate if need be.
 

Mightytalldude

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Thanks for the feedback, for some context I drive to the CO mountains 2-3 a month on the weekends and am generally taking I70, which climbs to 11K feet at one point. 4th gear can’t keep speed (65-70) so on all the climbs I’m generally in 3rd around 65 to ensure I can hold my speed and accelerate if need be.
I do the same drive frequently with the same 4k-ish rpm, and no issues.
 

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It is. Obviously slightly more wear and tear on the engine but the manufacture testing would encompass much higher and longer rpms to confirm the warranty before mass production. As the engine has been out for years this just reinforces the stoutness of it.
I agree. Decent torque and horsepower available at 4,000 rpm. The 2nd stage oil pump kicks in at 3,000 rpm taking oil pressure from about 30psi to 75 psi. Nothing scary about this - just the design basis.
I think the biggest enemy is heat - if it’s 100 degrees and running 4,000+ for a long time you might need to get into a cool down cycle.
As always YMMV. My $0.02. Keep the change.

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DanW

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This engine loves to rev. It is actually good for it. When driven like a granny, the oil in the valve stems evaporates. High rpm splashes oil back in there. So it is good to run it hard now and then, even if you aren't in the mountains.
 

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Co Jeeper

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I agree. Decent torque and horsepower available at 4,000 rpm. The 2nd stage oil pump kicks in at 3,000 rpm taking oil pressure from about 30psi to 75 psi. Nothing scary about this - just the design basis.
I think the biggest enemy is heat - if it’s 100 degrees and running 4,000+ for a long time you might need to get into a cool down cycle.
As always YMMV. My $0.02. Keep the change.

824B3DD9-33B7-40B1-819C-ECBD2DA24AC0.png
Very helpful, thanks everyone.
 

Choatecav

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I agree. Decent torque and horsepower available at 4,000 rpm. The 2nd stage oil pump kicks in at 3,000 rpm taking oil pressure from about 30psi to 75 psi. Nothing scary about this - just the design basis.
I think the biggest enemy is heat - if it’s 100 degrees and running 4,000+ for a long time you might need to get into a cool down cycle.
As always YMMV. My $0.02. Keep the change.

824B3DD9-33B7-40B1-819C-ECBD2DA24AC0.png
As always, this is some good data to have. Thanks.
 

guntrust

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I agree. Decent torque and horsepower available at 4,000 rpm. The 2nd stage oil pump kicks in at 3,000 rpm taking oil pressure from about 30psi to 75 psi. Nothing scary about this - just the design basis.
I think the biggest enemy is heat - if it’s 100 degrees and running 4,000+ for a long time you might need to get into a cool down cycle.
As always YMMV. My $0.02. Keep the change.

824B3DD9-33B7-40B1-819C-ECBD2DA24AC0.png
Interesting--what RPM recommended for best fuel economy?
 

Bbannongmu

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Interesting--what RPM recommended for best fuel economy?
Not sure. Driven reasonably, I seem to get reasonable mileage. Seems like short shifting/lugging kills mpgs just as much as revving. Really depends on terrain, gearing, tires, aerodynamics, etc. I’m probably not the one to ask this I’ve done just about everything I can to kill mileage - 37” tires, 5.13 gears, 550lbs of added weight (winch, steel bumper, rock rails, armor, slide out bed).
 

skindata

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Not sure. Driven reasonably, I seem to get reasonable mileage. Seems like short shifting/lugging kills mpgs just as much as revving. Really depends on terrain, gearing, tires, aerodynamics, etc. I’m probably not the one to ask this I’ve done just about everything I can to kill mileage - 37” tires, 5.13 gears, 550lbs of added weight (winch, steel bumper, rock rails, armor, slide out bed).
You really have no power for anything below 2500rpm. I try to shift around 4000 for every gear until I’m up to speed and then use 5th and there’s no need for 6th unless I’m going 75 on the highway. So far I’m pleased with the 4.10’s.
 

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TroutFishingInAmerica

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Added the B&M shifter. Was able to get the transfer case nob without buying the whole enchilada with the dog leg. A little backyard engineering and she is rock solid. I personally don't like that dog leg, just couldn't do that thing. Truck is dirty but I'm stoked so I'm shooting off these pics.
Jeep Gladiator Manual Transmission Club IMG_20220714_202337308
Jeep Gladiator Manual Transmission Club IMG_20220714_202315405
 

DanW

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Added the B&M shifter. Was able to get the transfer case nob without buying the whole enchilada with the dog leg. A little backyard engineering and she is rock solid. I personally don't like that dog leg, just couldn't do that thing. Truck is dirty but I'm stoked so I'm shooting off these pics.
IMG_20220714_202337308.jpg
IMG_20220714_202315405.jpg
How do you like it? How did it change the feel? Is it shorter throw? Was the installation difficult?

Looks great!
 

TroutFishingInAmerica

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It's definitely shorter and shorter throw. It does feel crisper and more defined but that's what you get with a shorter shaft. The installation was pretty simple, there was one area, the bottom connection, that my kielbasa meat hooks had to spend some time with. I would rate it 1 beer difficult. I like it but I wouldn't endorse it for most people. On my Mojave for me it makes sense. I love to row through the gears. If it's a daily, rock crawler, tow rig, I wouldn't waste the money. Desert rated and once in a while you drive it like you sold it, absolutely yes. If there is interest I'll post later how I got that transfer case nob installed. This is long enough.
 

DanW

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It's definitely shorter and shorter throw. It does feel crisper and more defined but that's what you get with a shorter shaft. The installation was pretty simple, there was one area, the bottom connection, that my kielbasa meat hooks had to spend some time with. I would rate it 1 beer difficult. I like it but I wouldn't endorse it for most people. On my Mojave for me it makes sense. I love to row through the gears. If it's a daily, rock crawler, tow rig, I wouldn't waste the money. Desert rated and once in a while you drive it like you sold it, absolutely yes. If there is interest I'll post later how I got that transfer case nob installed. This is long enough.
Lol, I love rowing the gears, too, especially on twisty country roads. But I also have done a good share of crawling. I've seen this many times and thought about it but have always wanted to hear from someone who has it and is living with it.

I appreciate your review and thoughts!
 

Choatecav

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Added the B&M shifter. Was able to get the transfer case nob without buying the whole enchilada with the dog leg. A little backyard engineering and she is rock solid. I personally don't like that dog leg, just couldn't do that thing. Truck is dirty but I'm stoked so I'm shooting off these pics.
IMG_20220714_202337308.jpg
IMG_20220714_202315405.jpg
Looks very nice. BTW, is that a spur I see dangling in the upper right corner of picture #1?
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