The drop brackets will help it ride better by fixing some of the arm angle but it won't fix dw. Your lift isn't that tall, something is loose or out of spec, you seem to have changed most of the usual suspects though so it's a bit of a head scratcher.
Thank you very much, it’s been frustrating with it handling so well up until now. The rod play was on the old ...well not old but the factory tie rod ends. That’s why I purchased the Apex 2.5 ton thinking it would fix it. I’ve had it aligned twice and have swapped wheels and tires off my wife’s wrangler rubicon. With hers and the factory 33’s it does the same thing. One thing I’ve noticed is I have measured from my sway bar brackets with a square up. Then measured to the frame on both sides in the same spots. And have measured from the side wall of my tires ( making sure I’m on the actual sidewall and not on a tread block) with a straight edge 4’ level and over to my fenders. Both ways of measuring I come up with my front axle 5/8” more to the drivers side of the truck. It’s been this way since install and has been fine. But the shop who’s done the alignments says their machine checks for cross sectional measurements and they can’t see it with their machine. But I also have on my rear passenger side some camber issues that they said would have to be from an improper bearing face from the factory as there’s no adjustment on the rear. And they also said it wouldn’t effect it. But then there’s also camber issues on the front passenger side that they can’t see what’s causing it. I’ll attach the alignment sheet from after the Apex steering was installed.I’m not really sure if geometry correction brackets is the solution here. It may be a solution, but that’s really just going to help mask whatever the issue actually is.
Our builds are somewhat similar. I have the 3.5 Overland+ diesel lift from Clayton, and run Yokohama G003 37’s on a -25 offset wheel. My steering is the Currie system Clayton offers on their website, with the addition of a Metalcloak track-bar reinforcement bracket. The Currie has a little play in it as you describe on your ends, both Currie and Clayton assured me it was normal. Steering stabilizer is the teraflex falcon adjustable. Besides a very very slight pull to the left I’ve never been able to figure out, my steering is like butter. (The pull to the left got better after I moved the wheels around the truck.)
No death wobble or any weird stuff from the steering, it’s rock solid. Clayton is known to be a rock solid option, and is a full kit, so there’s something loose or broke for sure, not result of a poor setup. What I’m getting at is the Clayton lift is designed well, it does not need the addition of geometry correction brackets.
Here’s a photo my most recent alignment that got everything dialed in very well, hope it helps some.
My bet is either alignment, the track bar, or something weird with the wheels. Maybe the difference between my wheels at -25 and yours at that little bit more offset is the straw that broke the camels back. I’d say find a Jeep buddy and swap wheels, see if the problem replicates. Simple enough thing to try just to rule it out.
Let me know if I can answer any questions about my setup, I’m happy to help ya ??
Absolutely !! It’s driving me insane. I’ve put more money and time into this than any other vehicle I’ve ever had. This was my dream truck and it’s quickly becoming the biggest headache lol. But I don’t wanna give up because I do love it.
Though I am not a fan of drop brackets like I said, it’s worth noting that I did just find this thread with another user in the comments with Clayton lift experiencing the same issue. Apparently drop brackets did solve it for him. I still think that’s just masking the real issue.
Totally disagree. Any lift over 2" should get those arms back to parallel with the ground. The guy in the video posted a ways back nailed it.
More than ride - dropping the rears of the CAs put them back into a normal arc, more straight up and down than rearward and forward with each bump or drop.
/THREAD right hereTotally disagree. Any lift over 2" should get those arms back to parallel with the ground. The guy in the video posted a ways back nailed it.
IMO, any lift that is over about 2" should come with brackets.
These lift sellers do what is needed to lift, need more, they'll be happy to sell you more. Price point is king.
You are dropping those CAs down into a position to swing rearward more wildly and changing how the forces are transmitted to the frame.
More than ride - dropping the rears of the CAs put them back into a normal arc, more straight up and down than rearward and forward with each bump or drop.
With a tall lift every uneven spot pulls the axle back or pushes it forward, setting up some very abnormal events.
Geometry and math.
If you hit a low spot with the right side and a tall lift, that side of the axle drops and in the process, is pulled back. Since the arms are swinging in a different part of their arc, it wants to try to "twist" that end of the axle as well. All 4 arms need to swing in similar arcs - upper to lower and left to right.
The shorter arm of the two on either side will change more than the longer arm, and try to twist the axle. It's worse the farther out of parallel with the ground you are.
Dr. DW makes good points.
Wheels matter - you change that scrub radius and you introduce what you need to get DW.
Especially with toe being off. Wheels are dragged back as far as they'll go, and want to bounce back to straight forcing the other wheel back and then it wants to bounce back to straight, and you have yourself an oscillation - DW. If toe is out or neutral, the natural forces want to shove the wheels back out farther. The wheels sticking way out magnify those forces dramatically. Left wheel gets dragged back by crazy scrub radius and no toe in, and then it corrects, dragged back, corrects........ it's been explained by suspension engineers for decades.
Lifts do other things, too - like make the angle on the drag link and track bar more severe, leading to them being allowed to flex and give more, acting like springs. (so use much heavier parts and try to correct the angles as much as possible)
Depending on the Jeep or other vehicle, you may be flexing the drag link, and any slop at all makes things worse.
The problem is that sometimes people throw parts at Jeeps because they want the cool, wow factor (or to actually do something with it) and don't understand the impact, the result of each change. Certain changes made in combination with each other make it worse where by themselves an individual change may work.
This one is a bad combination of multiple changes.
That's my theory. He was closer to DW then he realized. Then when the cold temps hit and rubber stiffened and metal contacted, he crossed the line.
Yea this wheel offset calculator was my “go to” when purchasing wheels, because i wanted my new offset/tire width close to stock as possible. It looks like +22 will get OP closest to stock. -17 looks dangerous.
According to [Banned Site] and the owner of dynatrak they should be toed in 1/8 of an inch. Once your going down the road they actually start pulling apart. So you want them in a little so they pull straight.
