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rharr

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2Lo installed, granted it's not the conventional type that involves modifying the Transfer case or going twin stick. This is a simple electronic mod that overrides the FAD disconnect and prevents the FAD from engaging the axle shaft half's. It basically tricks the computer.

I am not the first one to do it. That credit goes to @Rick Shols over here:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-driveshaft-install.92241/page-2#post-1547709

and the kit is from:
https://us.bddiesel.com/products/2-...019-4wd-2500-2014-2019-4wd-3500-2013-2019-4wd for ram trucks but works for jeeps just as good and you don't need to modify the kit in anyway.

Not terribly hard if you are doing a rear seat delete or a armorlite install. I was doing a armorlite install. The hardest part was getting the back panel loose or removed. You have to pull the back seat for best access and the rear plastic trim is a huge pain in the ass to remove. I ended up breaking off one of the top trim prongs and cracking the plastic by the baby seat loops, but was able to pull it up enough to access the control module, it all went back together well enough that it works but now has some battle scars. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

Here is the module you need to connect to (the blue plug) and to the right is the relay block you need to mount with some self tappers. The module is located on passenger side of things.

Jeep Gladiator 2LO - installed 1767240753789-sf


I ran the switch wires under the center console and mounted the switch by the 4x4 lever and brake lever. I forget to grab a photo, i'll do that tomorrow.

I used some sound deadener sticky panels to hold down and protect the wires that run to the center console putting the wires in valley of the corrugated floor pan then covering the whole thing with armorlite.

Jeep Gladiator 2LO - installed 1767241502883-1o


Here is the switch

Jeep Gladiator 2LO - installed IMG_20260102_101109_927
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Janster

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What would be the point in having 2lo? When would you need to use it?
 

Dilly’S Willy

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I'm not understanding how this can work on anything other than the Selec-trac 4x4 with the Auto 4H. Unless I'm missing something here, the Command-trac (Part-time) 4H/4L is purely mechanical.

Can someone link FAD info (searching just lists EVERY post ever) and are they on EVERY Gladiator?
 

Janster

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I'm not understanding how this can work on anything other than the Selec-trac 4x4 with the Auto 4H. Unless I'm missing something here, the Command-trac (Part-time) 4H/4L is purely mechanical.

Can someone link FAD info (searching just lists EVERY post ever) and are they on EVERY Gladiator?
Someone can correct me if I’m wrong…. (old school brain).

They’ve made the ability to manually disconnect the FAD while the T-case is in 4lo. Disconnecting the FAD renders you in 2WD.
 

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IamPro2A

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What would be the point in having 2lo? When would you need to use it?
If I remember the original thread right, the other person wanted it for backing up a large trailer because for some reason in the manual trans reverse isn't as low a gear as 1st gear is.
 

Zachanadandy

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If I remember the original thread right, the other person wanted it for backing up a large trailer because for some reason in the manual trans reverse isn't as low a gear as 1st gear is.
It's not as low in the auto either. Our 1st gear is 4.7-1. Reverse is 3.3-1. That's barely lower than 2nd gear at 3.13-1.
 

Alaska-HWY JK

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I put the AA RubiCrawler in my 2007 JK in 2009 so it has 2 low and a 7.3 reduction in low low. I really like it for cow trailing or easy stuff. Steers way better. Also don’t have to listen to the RCV’s clicking.
 

Bandit’s Lair

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I put the AA RubiCrawler in my 2007 JK in 2009 so it has 2 low and a 7.3 reduction in low low. I really like it for cow trailing or easy stuff. Steers way better. Also don’t have to listen to the RCV’s clicking.
I won one of those at TDS a while back for my LJ. That thing got me out of SO MANY hard spots!!!
 

Alaska-HWY JK

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It must really over power the LJ brakes. I know with the JK I have to throw it in neutral a lot.
 

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Thunderspud

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If I remember the original thread right, the other person wanted it for backing up a large trailer because for some reason in the manual trans reverse isn't as low a gear as 1st gear is.
That guy was right. I end up using 4lo in my truck almost every time I haul our trailers. It's either that or buy a new clutch every year.
 

Bandit’s Lair

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It must really over power the LJ brakes. I know with the JK I have to throw it in neutral a lot.
Oh yeah!!! Had to keep the hand on the shifter for the “N” brake in the rocks. Taught me a lot of footwork but most of the time was point and hang on because it’s going where you point it at the speed of turtle in 4LL
 

JeepOfTheseus

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Someone can correct me if I’m wrong…. (old school brain).

They’ve made the ability to manually disconnect the FAD while the T-case is in 4lo. Disconnecting the FAD renders you in 2WD.
So it's leveraging the fact that it's an open diff, and capitalizing on the "weakness" which is that it will send power to the axle shaft with no traction (i.e. the disconnected/passenger side)?
 

kb5zcr

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If someone needed 2-lo this seems like a good mod. My old 69 chevy 4x4 (manual trans) had manual hubs and I used 2-lo from time to time.
 

Janster

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So it's leveraging the fact that it's an open diff, and capitalizing on the "weakness" which is that it will send power to the axle shaft with no traction (i.e. the disconnected/passenger side)?
When the FAD is disconnected, there is no drive to the front wheels. That is totally out of the picture. REAR only…..(no FAD on the rear)

So yes…the rear is an OPEN differential. The only way to send power from side to side on either front or rear axle, is either by the brake actuated LSD, other mechanical LSD or locker in the diff itself.
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