Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call

[fourfa]

The dimensions I just pulled from my camper are base width 15mm, slot width 8mm, overall thickness 10mm (4mm lip, 6mm slot height), and no more than 11mm overall length to fit in the entry slots (since all the rails are closed with welded joints at the ends). I don't think an off-the-shelf T-slot nut with these dimensions exists? I think you'd be looking at fabricating some on a mill

I've only used thin hex nuts like this. If one thin hex nut isn't enough strength, you could make a bracket that can use 2-3-4 (exactly like the rear door hinges do). That's an option anyway. You do have to be careful with the length of the screw or bolt that goes into it - the slot depth is only 10mm.

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[Blucid]

Just found out about this, thread. I will be joining you all soon as well. Have decided to go with the Alu-Cab Canopy Camper as well. The one thing im trying to figure out is how I can use the space above the freedom panels. Hear me out.

Was thinking of picking up something like this - [LINK] - then taking it and cutting it to the length desired and mounting it just to the freedom panels. So that I can utilize the space above there for maybe light stuff, like max tracks, antennas, wood I'm bringing or even a storage box of some sort.

What do you guys think?

 

[Steven_B]

Just found out about this, thread. I will be joining you all soon as well. Have decided to go with the Alu-Cab Canopy Camper as well. The one thing im trying to figure out is how I can use the space above the freedom panels. Hear me out.

Was thinking of picking up something like this - [LINK] - then taking it and cutting it to the length desired and mounting it just to the freedom panels. So that I can utilize the space above there for maybe light stuff, like max tracks, antennas, wood I'm bringing or even a storage box of some sort.

What do you guys think?

I think a few of us have been waiting for some of the simpler rack companies to come out with a shorty rack. Really, most of the racks on the market would be great to shorten, but the cost of them doesn't make it cost effective. I for sure don't want to chop up a $1000 rack.

Sounds like Sherpa will be releasing a Gladiator rack, at least thats what they are hinting everytime I harass them on IG. That would similar to the Prinsu racks that the Tacoma guys cut for their ACCC equipped Tacomas.

 

[Blucid]

I think a few of us have been waiting for some of the simpler rack companies to come out with a shorty rack. Really, most of the racks on the market would be great to shorten, but the cost of them doesn't make it cost effective. I for sure don't want to chop up a $1000 rack.

Sounds like Sherpa will be releasing a Gladiator rack, at least thats what they are hinting everytime I harass them on IG. That would similar to the Prinsu racks that the Tacoma guys cut for their ACCC equipped Tacomas.

Yeah this one is like literally the cheapest one I found and it does look like really good quality.

 

[ParatusExpeditions]

I think that the one you linked would still need to be chopped up. Its not even a half rack we need but a quarter rack almost. Once camper is on, there isn't much space to leverage. I'll try to get some dimension for you in 30min

 

[ParatusExpeditions]

So from the front of the alu cab to the windshield separation there is 26in, that's it ?

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Just found out about this, thread. I will be joining you all soon as well. Have decided to go with the Alu-Cab Canopy Camper as well. The one thing im trying to figure out is how I can use the space above the freedom panels. Hear me out.

Was thinking of picking up something like this - [LINK] - then taking it and cutting it to the length desired and mounting it just to the freedom panels. So that I can utilize the space above there for maybe light stuff, like max tracks, antennas, wood I'm bringing or even a storage box of some sort.

What do you guys think?

I have a custom size of this rack being made. It is fully welded aluminum. It should arrive in the next couple week. I am sure they will/can make more as they do custom sizes.

https://www.ruggedbound.com/collect...s/jeep-gladiator-roof-rack-by-big-country-4x4

 

[mquetel]

The dimensions I just pulled from my camper are base width 15mm, slot width 8mm, overall thickness 10mm (4mm lip, 6mm slot height), and no more than 11mm overall length to fit in the entry slots (since all the rails are closed with welded joints at the ends). I don't think an off-the-shelf T-slot nut with these dimensions exists? I think you'd be looking at fabricating some on a mill

I've only used thin hex nuts like this. If one thin hex nut isn't enough strength, you could make a bracket that can use 2-3-4 (exactly like the rear door hinges do). That's an option anyway. You do have to be careful with the length of the screw or bolt that goes into it - the slot depth is only 10mm.

Thank you for that info! You make a really good point about the rails being closed and limiting the length of fastener that could be slid in. I found an M6 threaded T-slot nut on McMaster that is within the range you shared, but the are expensive and seem like they offer absolutely no benefit over an M8 hex bolt or the hex nuts your describe.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Thank you for that info! You make a really good point about the rails being closed and limiting the length of fastener that could be slid in. I found an M6 threaded T-slot nut on McMaster that is within the range you shared, but the are expensive and seem like they offer absolutely no benefit over an M8 hex bolt or the hex nuts your describe.

Do you have the Trail Rails? I believe you would have better leverage using a T-Nut in there for a step vs using the small track on the camper

 

[mquetel]

Do you have the Trail Rails? I believe you would have better leverage using a T-Nut in there for a step vs using the small track on the camper

I do. My understanding is that the T-nuts for the mopar trail rails are compatible with what Toyota uses on Tacos/Tundras, so lots of Amazon/eBay options there. So my complete thought is to tie into that and the ALCC slot directly above. Same idea as the brackets used to tie the camper to the bed.

I’m not sure why I was so focused on a t-slot nut for the ALCC, when most of the weight will be carried by the larger gauge rail below. So I’m going to follow your original advice and use a readily available hex bolt. Now I just need to figure out a “step” / bolt on platform for my wife to put her foot on when entering/exiting the sleeping area.

 

[fourfa]

We keep our ice chest in the right rear corner, and use that as a step ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[mquetel]

We keep our ice chest in the right rear corner, and use that as a step ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Happy wife…. Happy… you know. LOL.

 

[Blucid]

So from the front of the alu cab to the windshield separation there is 26in, that's it ?

Yeah I just linked the cheapest full length I can find that I would be willing to cut.

 

[Wonkinator]

https://www.uptopoverland.com/colle...products/alpha-jeep-gladiator-full-cab-rack-1 UpTOP Overland has a JT Roof Rack that comes in TWO pieces, so you can order just the front section. (apologies in advance, if already posted).

 

[Steven_B]

https://www.uptopoverland.com/colle...products/alpha-jeep-gladiator-full-cab-rack-1 UpTOP Overland has a JT Roof Rack that comes in TWO pieces, so you can order just the front section. (apologies in advance, if already posted).

Have you ordered just the front section? Curious what the price is since they don't list just the front section on the site. Since their full-length system is $1k, guessing it would still be around $800

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