Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call

[teamblkdog]

I have a JKUR that I run the Genesis Dual Battery set up along with the Cascadia 100 W solar panel to my secondary battery also. I run a fridge continuously (ARB 50qt) and a number of electronics such as a couple of Garmin GPS along with the Garmin InReach and a Pad, not to mention my phone continuously. In about two days without good sunshine my fridge will kick off due to the safety features built in that won't let you drain your batteries. I really do love the Genesis system and am in the process of planning out a build for a JT that I have ordered which will have the ACCC on it. I am trying to find out if I can run the Genesis Gen 3 setup for just the electronics I will keep running in my Jeep especially when I am off grid and linking it to a "house" Lithium-Ion battery system via a redarc system for the camper (with dedicated solar) which will also have my fridge and more than likely other electronic devices that will require power.

My question to you, or anyone else for that matter, have you looked into doing something along those lines? I like to spend as much time as I can off grid and I would rather not have to worry about cranking my vehicle every other day if I am somewhere I plan to stay for a while. I am one of those people who would rather be over engineered and have something and never really need it, than to need it and not have it.

My system is very simple: 100AH LiFePO4 battery in ACCC, RedArc BCDC1240D charge controller, 200W solar. Battery stays charged via solar/alternator while driving. I run my ARB fridge 24/7 during 3 seasons. I'm not a winter camper, so battery comes out Nov - March. LiFePO4 doesn't charge below freezing and I haven't had good results with battery heater. I also have switched power to ACCC accessories plus extra 12V/LED lights running off the LiFePO4. I've been using this setup for 2 years with no issues.

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[Jay61]

I guess it depends on what all you will have on the hooked to the Genesis setup. I have been getting the "Aux buttons not available, battery charging" warning a few times this winter even though I have the Cascadia panel trickle charging the batteries so not sure how much I would want to run off of the Genesis alone.

I am running the Odyssey AGMs as my two batteries in my JKUR. Like I said, I run a fridge full time on it too. I have not had any issues other than my Fridge cutting off after a day and a half mainly in the summer on cloudy days due to the auto cutoff feature if the battery running it drops below 11 or so. Like I said though, I am running the 100-Watt Cascadia solar panel on my JKUR, I would have to change out my hood on the JT to run one that size. I would be running the fridge on the battery bank in the camper which would be Lithium-ion, and not off the Genesis system.

 

[chorky]

Have you done the math to see what amount of power you actually need? It could be surprising. The batteries in the genesis system only offer about 50ah of usable power without damaging the aux battery - of course making it separated from the starting battery so it doesnt drain down.

 

[mquetel]

Modified/installed an Alucab canopy table bracket so that I can store an Alucab table under the sleeping platform of my ALCC. Table can be stowed/removed when sleeping platform is raised or lowered. I talked to the nice folks at AVO who had teased this mod on their instagram feed late last year. They gave me a couple great tips which saved me lots of time.


sleeping platform raised:

sleeping platform lowered:

A couple people have reached out, requesting more info about this mod. Here is a brief write up.

The Alucab components of this install are:
Table: https://www.alu-cab.com/product/alu-table/
Bracket: https://www.alu-cab.com/product/table-bracket/

Additional hardware:

[EDIT] I received the new hardware and I think it works better.

4 - M8 x 1.25 ultra low profile socket head screw, 35mm length
4 - M8 x 1.25 hex bolts, 40mm long
4 - M8 Tee Nut inserts for wood, 11mm long
4 - 1" spacers, large enough for M8 bolt
4 - 0.75" spacers, large enough for M8 bolt.
2 - 3/8" x 1/2" long large flange aluminum rivets
1 - 3/16" x 3/8" long aluminum rivet


The table comes with a small aluminum plate attached at one end, which is designed to slide over and mate with the table bracket's anti-luce fastener. Remove this plate and keep all parts, you will relocate this plate off center. The existing hole can be closed with the single 3/16" x 3/8" long rivet.

Determine where you want the table brackets installed under the sleeping plaform, I chose as far forward as practicalto the middle cross-brace. The table bracket instructions will give you the recommended width between the 2. My install left me with 1/4" on each side. Once the location has been determined and marked, drill the 4 holes necessary for the m8 tee nuts. Install the tee nuts by hammering them into the top side of the sleeping platform, below the mattress. The brackets have long slotted holes so you can adjust the fore/aft position as desired. Attach the brackets to the bottom of the sleeping plaform using the hex bolts, with the spacers between the bracket and the sleeping platform.

The anti-luce fitting and bracket are then attached to the next cross-brace, just rear of the led light. I chose to offset to the driver side, in the hopes of avoiding the wiring that runs inside the brace. No issues encountered. The anti-luce bracket is attached via the large flange rivets. The light will need to be rotated completely forward or rearward for the necessary vertical clearance with the table.

The tightest tolerances seem to come from the head of the hex bolt (used to attach the table bracket) and the table itself. The bracket also can just barely come in contact with the ledge below the sleeping platform. In the hopes of making the table slide a bit more freely and not have contact with the legde below, I have invested in some ultra-low profile socket head screws (https://www.mcmaster.com/90358A029) that will give me the room to run a fender washer between the fastener and bracket, yet still be lower profile than just a normal hex bolt. Washers unnecessary and take you to same profile as a normal hex bolt. Skip them. I will also switch to a 3/4" spacer instead of 1" spacer, to move the bracket closer to the bottom of the sleeping plaform. This new hardware arrives later this week. I think it will be an improvemnent, but wanted to share the original hardware since that is what AVO shared with me.

Good luck and enjoy!

 

[Jay61]

Yes, manageable. Ideal…not really.

What would you do differently to make it ideal? That with Fox 2.5 and a Helwig sway bar is the route I have decided upon for my Truck.

 

[fourfa]

Grrr... I had to pick up a vehicle today and ended up driving behind my own JT. Gorram install shop (Mule Expedition) installed the center brake light so it blinks with the left turn signal. Right signal or no signal, works fine. I assume it's a simple matter of unfucking whatever they fucked up, and tapping into the trailer harness for the correct brake signal...

 

[Steven_B]

Grrr... I had to pick up a vehicle today and ended up driving behind my own JT. Gorram install shop (Mule Expedition) installed the center brake light so it blinks with the left turn signal. Right signal or no signal, works fine. I assume it's a simple matter of unfucking whatever they fucked up, and tapping into the trailer harness for the correct brake signal...

Yeah, you just need to tap into the correct wire in the harness. That's all.

 

[Wonkinator]

I removed the bolts so I could slide the panel down a little so the top did not rub when opening. Not sure it was necessary, but it seemed like a good idea at the time.
I used Southco torque hinges from Amazon and the latch was purchased on 8020.net.

Do you happen to know the specific model numbers (or sizes) on the hinges and latch? Thank you for sharing this great idea. I have the 813 Fabrication Rotopax holders and would like to add the panels back on to hide them. Thanks!

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Sorry, I searched the thread some but did not find a good answer.
Is anyone running the AEV high capacity springs? If so, did you install the full kit with geometry correction brackets, bump stops, etc? I'm not sure I need the full kit. I have some components left from my Mopar 2" lift. I swapped most of the front components to Steer Smarts, including the front end links. I have been running the Dobinsons springs and Fox 2.5 shocks. I am going to swap the Dobinsons to AEV and just wondering if I need anything more than just the springs

 

[Blucid]

Sorry, I searched the thread some but did not find a good answer.
Is anyone running the AEV high capacity springs? If so, did you install the full kit with geometry correction brackets, bump stops, etc? I'm not sure I need the full kit. I have some components left from my Mopar 2" lift. I swapped most of the front components to Steer Smarts, including the front end links. I have been running the Dobinsons springs and Fox 2.5 shocks. I am going to swap the Dobinsons to AEV and just wondering if I need anything more than just the springs

I think @JTOverlander21 is running them, hes got a full build up on his post.
Here is the [LINK]

 

[Steven_B]

Sorry, I searched the thread some but did not find a good answer.
Is anyone running the AEV high capacity springs? If so, did you install the full kit with geometry correction brackets, bump stops, etc? I'm not sure I need the full kit. I have some components left from my Mopar 2" lift. I swapped most of the front components to Steer Smarts, including the front end links. I have been running the Dobinsons springs and Fox 2.5 shocks. I am going to swap the Dobinsons to AEV and just wondering if I need anything more than just the springs

I am (full kit). Started with the standard springs and then upgraded to the diesel high-capacity coils.

 

[mquetel]

Sorry, I searched the thread some but did not find a good answer.
Is anyone running the AEV high capacity springs? If so, did you install the full kit with geometry correction brackets, bump stops, etc? I'm not sure I need the full kit. I have some components left from my Mopar 2" lift. I swapped most of the front components to Steer Smarts, including the front end links. I have been running the Dobinsons springs and Fox 2.5 shocks. I am going to swap the Dobinsons to AEV and just wondering if I need anything more than just the springs

I’m also running the Dualsport RT lift with the high cap. springs on my 22 diesel JTR. Quite happy with it, but I am seeing a small amount of spring bow on front driver side. Might need to add an adjustable track bar… fan of the steer smarts bits also.

No rust on springs either!

 

[flipboltz]

Sorry, I searched the thread some but did not find a good answer.
Is anyone running the AEV high capacity springs? If so, did you install the full kit with geometry correction brackets, bump stops, etc? I'm not sure I need the full kit. I have some components left from my Mopar 2" lift. I swapped most of the front components to Steer Smarts, including the front end links. I have been running the Dobinsons springs and Fox 2.5 shocks. I am going to swap the Dobinsons to AEV and just wondering if I need anything more than just the springs

I haven't had my AEV install for very long but yes, full install - no rust, no bowing yet. High Capacity RT 3" lift.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

I haven't had my AEV install for very long but yes, full install - no rust, no bowing yet. High Capacity RT 3" lift.

Thanks! I was fortunate to see a customers JT with 35s and the AEV 3" springs a few days ago. It is too high for me. I don't plan to ever go to 37s. I have seen them on a few with 37s and it looks good, but with 35s its too much gap. I guess I will try to get the Dobinsons warrantied and get the black this time in hopes that it doesn't look this bad in another year

 

[flipboltz]

Thanks! I was fortunate to see a customers JT with 35s and the AEV 3" springs a few days ago. It is too high for me. I don't plan to ever go to 37s. I have seen them on a few with 37s and it looks good, but with 35s its too much gap. I guess I will try to get the Dobinsons warrantied and get the black this time in hopes that it doesn't look this bad in another year

I hear you. I am only going up to 35's. I am hoping it doesn't look too bad. I still have the stock 33's on and the gap is very noticeable.

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