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Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call

813 Fabrication & Design

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I like it. During the winter, that door is locked all the time anyway since I add insulation for cold-weather camping. Now, if you could only make a dropdown table system using those mounting points like the Alu Cab customers get for the canopies.
Agreed, I feel it is good for those who need to carry more gear. I am also working on a hinged version, so I am keeping this production run small to see if anyone likes them. I was going to work on a dropdown system but Alu-Cab has a new system coming soon. I can't compete with their pricing so I decided not to do much with it for now.

You can see their prototype system in this video, scroll to 3:42
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Agreed, I almost also ask for Andrew. Super nice guy and has spent over an hour on the phone with me when working on a previous RedVision install. I have not found a way to do changes without having to do a full reconfiguration. Seems I mentioned it to Andrew once and they may be working on a better way, but I am not 100% sure. What is even worse, I have multiple screens. Each screen is independent of the other, not chain linked, so I have to unhook each screen from the TVMS, program it with only one screen connected and repeat for each screen. That is really my only beef with the Redarc system. Otherwise I love it.
Well…well…well. I found a ton of videos on their webpage. Most were not technical enough but there is one with detailed instructions on installing TVMS Prime that answered several of my questions. Then I figured I’d try their email support and emailed several questions. I assumed I’d get the same response I get from the majority of vendors I deal with after purchasing their products, either a half-ass response or no response at all. Instead I received a very thorough and detailed response within 24 hours that provided ALL the info I needed plus more. His name is Mark Bruce. I’m blown away by the high level of quality and responsiveness. Further proof I definitely went with the right product and company. Kudos and a big thank you to REDARC!!
 

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Hi All…I am preparing to do the Goose Gear 100% rear seat delete. I’ve read all of the posts of ppl that have done it but my question is:

Is there a consensus on which version is preferred (High or Low)?

My fridge is staying in the ACCC. I’m leaning toward the high to store more gear that I don’t use often, but it seems you get more configurable space with the extended platform.

Any/All input welcome. Has annyone installed one version and now wish they did the other version instead?

thanks, in advance.
 

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Hi All…I am preparing to do the Goose Gear 100% rear seat delete. I’ve read all of the posts of ppl that have done it but my question is:

Is there a consensus on which version is preferred (High or Low)?

My fridge is staying in the ACCC. I’m leaning toward the high to store more gear that I don’t use often, but it seems you get more configurable space with the extended platform.

Any/All input welcome. Has annyone installed one version and now wish they did the other version instead?

thanks, in advance.
If you are going with GG I would highly recommend getting the high. I had the low and lost some functionality once gear was loaded on top. I ended up swapping to the SHW Off-road full delete setup with rear wall. It was higher and had drawers on each side and the back wall was awesome.
 

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Hi All…I am preparing to do the Goose Gear 100% rear seat delete. I’ve read all of the posts of ppl that have done it but my question is:

Is there a consensus on which version is preferred (High or Low)?

My fridge is staying in the ACCC. I’m leaning toward the high to store more gear that I don’t use often, but it seems you get more configurable space with the extended platform.

Any/All input welcome. Has annyone installed one version and now wish they did the other version instead?

thanks, in advance.
I don’t think there is a meaningful difference in the amount of storage you get with either… it’s how you choose to use it. I have the low platform and place items I don’t need very often under the platform, then use frontrunner cases on top for things I want more often. Also the dog rides on one side of the platform.
 

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Agreed, I feel it is good for those who need to carry more gear. I am also working on a hinged version, so I am keeping this production run small to see if anyone likes them. I was going to work on a dropdown system but Alu-Cab has a new system coming soon. I can't compete with their pricing so I decided not to do much with it for now.

You can see their prototype system in this video, scroll to 3:42
They even have a final version, its for sale from Genesis Import in Germany, costs around 850 bucks, and we like to have it, once funds are back, after we just purchased a ModCap for the Gladiator here in Germany ;-)

but I like some of your products a lot 813 fabrication, are you shipping to Germany?
for example do I need the backup camera relocation.
 

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They even have a final version, its for sale from Genesis Import in Germany, costs around 850 bucks, and we like to have it, once funds are back, after we just purchased a ModCap for the Gladiator here in Germany ;-)

but I like some of your products a lot 813 fabrication, are you shipping to Germany?
for example do I need the backup camera relocation.
Glad you like my stuff! Yes, I can ship to you. Message me and we can check on shipping costs. Which filler plate are you referring to? Under the rear door?

Jeremy
 

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As some of you may know from my build thread, I've been working with 80/20 material quite a bit for my camper interior build.

While this is going on, I also searched for options to mount materials nicely to the extrusion in the camper. Here's what I have found to be pretty good options so far:
  • Standard M8 bolts fit into the extrusion nicely.
  • Low profile M8 nuts also fit very well.
  • And now for a nice way of mounting with M6 bolts: the 80/20 "M6 Self-Aligning Roll-in T-Nut (Part 13092)" fits reasonably well as well. The best part is that it can be rolled into the slot even when no opening is available or convenient.
  • The 80/20 economy nuts for 25 Series profile also fit, but the surface area for the connection is relatively small, so I use these only for temporarily fixing things.
I'm going to use M8 nuts for most of the interior connections to get a slightly tighter fit in the channel. Some of the connections will be made with the 80/20 roll in nut as well. M6 is plenty given the shear-off strength of a steel bolt and that most of the force is distributed on muliple anchor points.

For the table I will mount in the door I will definitely use the 80/20 nuts since they allow me to use smaller and less obtrusive hardware.

Just thought, some here might be interested.

IMG_5908.jpeg
Hey, looking good,
can you do me a favor
what height is between floor and lower edge of the cross aluminum profile that goes from left to right?

I need to verify height for a fridge. Thanks


(I would measure myself, but the modCap will only be installed in week with 7th of April, and we want to leave for first 2 weeks trip already 1,5 weeks later.
 

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what height is between floor and lower edge of the cross aluminum profile that goes from left to right?
You mean the AluCab profile going left to right on the front (car cabin) side of the camper? I can try, but due to the build it's not easy to get in there. I can definitely measure the height of the 80/20 profile we have going left to right between the AluCab profiles on the sides, basically bottom plate to lower edge of the profile above the BioToi:

Jeep Gladiator Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call IMG_6545


That should give you a reasonable measurement, since it connects straight to the AluCab profile. I should have the drawings somewhere, but as we are preparing a (household) move, I have no clue where they actually are.

Wife is out with the truck right now, I'll measure this afternoon. If I find the (hand) drawings, I'll have something earlier. Note that on our truck the height was slightly different at the front and back due to the install. My guess is, there is more Sikaflex towards the rear ... or the truck is just not straight, which is absolutely possible as well.

Regarding the baseplate I'm sending you a template. Just be aware that ours is a very tight fit and might need sanding/grinding due to sample variation in the trucks.
 

cug

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I finally have my Webasto heater enclosure prototype complete and should have these into production very soon. What do you guys think?
Love it! This would have likely worked for us as well, but I'm happy we integrated our own since we used it quite bit on our trip last year. Can only recommend getting one of these heaters. Although it is a bit annoying that the fan runs no matter what when the heater is on, but not currently heating.
 

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You mean the AluCab profile going left to right on the front (car cabin) side of the camper? I can try, but due to the build it's not easy to get in there. I can definitely measure the height of the 80/20 profile we have going left to right between the AluCab profiles on the sides, basically bottom plate to lower edge of the profile above the BioToi:

IMG_6545.jpeg


That should give you a reasonable measurement, since it connects straight to the AluCab profile. I should have the drawings somewhere, but as we are preparing a (household) move, I have no clue where they actually are.

Wife is out with the truck right now, I'll measure this afternoon. If I find the (hand) drawings, I'll have something earlier. Note that on our truck the height was slightly different at the front and back due to the install. My guess is, there is more Sikaflex towards the rear ... or the truck is just not straight, which is absolutely possible as well.

Regarding the baseplate I'm sending you a template. Just be aware that ours is a very tight fit and might need sanding/grinding due to sample variation in the trucks.
That would be great, as are unsure which fridge can fit…

thanks a lot, same for the baseplate!!

have a great day!
 
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