Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call

[cug]

Make sure you leave enough room between metal and the rear window. The truck flexes quite a bit …

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[SimonH]

good idea for that odd blind waste of space.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

My new Starlink Mini Flush Crossbar Mount. What do you guys think? It still has the foldable foot on the bottom so it can come off the rack easy and set up somewhere else if needed.

 

[mquetel]

Version 2 of the mount, solid top made from 1/4" HDPE. Most likely the melt function may not work with this version but built-in protection.

Any concerns about the black surface of the HDPE contributing to overheating the SL in full sun?

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Any concerns about the black surface of the HDPE contributing to overheating the SL in full sun?

It is possible. With this prototype, I am weighing the heat and being fully covered, it will take away the snow melt feature most likely. I may rethink producing this version after some more research. I think the heat/sun could be an issue with many of the roof mount setups.

"Starlink dishes are certified to operate between -22°F and 122°F (-30°C to 50°C), and they can go into thermal shutdown if the temperature exceeds this range."

 

[Deleted member 57233]

It is possible. With this prototype, I am weighing the heat and being fully covered, it will take away the snow melt feature most likely. I may rethink producing this version after some more research. I think the heat/sun could be an issue with many of the roof mount setups.

"Starlink dishes are certified to operate between -22°F and 122°F (-30°C to 50°C), and they can go into thermal shutdown if the temperature exceeds this range."

Anything black left in the sun around here will get past 122°F very quickly in the summer. Just making it white can save you 50+ degrees.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Anything black left in the sun around here will get past 122°F very quickly in the summer. Just making it white can save you 50+ degrees.

I think you are right! The black looks cool, but function over form would be best in this case

 

[fourfa]

I'm so tempted to try to make this aux fuel tank fit into the crawlspace (my nickname for the deadspace between ACCC and cab):

https://www.moellermarine.com/moeller-marine/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/20-30-gals/20-gallon-permanent-below-deck-boat-fuel-tank-032818/

58" wide would be about perfect for the 60" wide space, leave 10" of room on top to arrange a fill neck, relief venting, and a mounted fuel pump. But 6" thick leaves very little gap to the rear glass at the bottom, where the gap is smallest. Seems risky. 20 gal is more than I strictly need (I've been happy with 15) but I haven't found thinner in the fuel-rated 50L+ class.

150 lbs up above the beltline isn't going to help tipover angle either, though lately I'm more concerned about moving weight from behind the rear axle (where it lifts up on the front axle, and puts more than its own weight on the rear) as far forward as I can to combat the inevitable rear weight balance with these campers. Thus this post and the research behind it.

Things behind the axle that I could maybe relocate:

• My current fridge setup: ~90 lbs with contents and mounting system
• Aux fuel: Titan Sidekick, ~120 lbs full, the bulk of it aft of the axle. Meaningless when empty, but we find ourselves keeping this full more and more. I am also interested in moving this completely outside the living spaces, as no matter how hard we try, smelly spillage has been inevitable
• 37" spare: only workable option would be over the freedom panels like Dan Grec; not very appealing
• Replace the factory steel bumper/receiver/corner skids (125 lbs) with something aluminum (as little as 21 lbs). I don't tow, though I definitely drag the corner skids and hitch from time to time. This does come out to relatively good bang for the buck when I run the numbers, compared to other weight reduction options.

 

[DR.]

I'm so tempted to try to make this aux fuel tank fit into the crawlspace (my nickname for the deadspace between ACCC and cab):

https://www.moellermarine.com/moell...n-permanent-below-deck-boat-fuel-tank-032818/

58" wide would be about perfect for the 60" wide space, leave 10" of room on top to arrange a fill neck, relief venting, and a mounted fuel pump. But 6" thick leaves very little gap to the rear glass at the bottom, where the gap is smallest. Seems risky. 20 gal is more than I strictly need (I've been happy with 15) but I haven't found thinner in the fuel-rated 50L+ class.

150 lbs up above the beltline isn't going to help tipover angle either, though lately I'm more concerned about moving weight from behind the rear axle (where it lifts up on the front axle, and puts more than its own weight on the rear) as far forward as I can to combat the inevitable rear weight balance with these campers. Thus this post and the research behind it.

Things behind the axle that I could maybe relocate:

• My current fridge setup: ~90 lbs with contents and mounting system
• Aux fuel: Titan Sidekick, ~120 lbs full, the bulk of it aft of the axle. Meaningless when empty, but we find ourselves keeping this full more and more. I am also interested in moving this completely outside the living spaces, as no matter how hard we try, smelly spillage has been inevitable
• 37" spare: only workable option would be over the freedom panels like Dan Grec; not very appealing
• Replace the factory steel bumper/receiver/corner skids (125 lbs) with something aluminum (as little as 21 lbs). I don't tow, though I definitely drag the corner skids and hitch from time to time. This does come out to relatively good bang for the buck when I run the numbers, compared to other weight reduction options.

Definitely risky as there is some movement between the bed and cab at times. I'm not sure what would give if it made contact, the camper, fuel tank, or cab. I suspect the cab might be the weakest point.

 

[fourfa]

I mean, a HDPE tank with some flexibility, some safety airspace at the top, and a pressure relief valve - it's definitely the tank that will give.

But if it's the glass rear window, and the whole camper or bed assembly has to come off to repair it - I'd be pretty pissed at myself. If I find a 5" tank in similar dimensions, I'd go for it no question. 813 has a great tank setup (only 3.25" thick) but at only 8 gallons it's just not quite there for me.

 

[fourfa]

Building a storage box for chairs, firepit etc.

@JeeperFIN question for you about your lock mechanism. I'm trying to buy a pair of compression latches to close the side hatches, exactly like you've done. The stock ones are Industrilas 2-398 but there are no obvious vendors using that name. Ideally I could get these keyed the same as what came on my ACCC.
Did you find a way to match the key for your side doors? Does your latch have its own key?
Thanks!

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

I mean, a HDPE tank with some flexibility, some safety airspace at the top, and a pressure relief valve - it's definitely the tank that will give.

But if it's the glass rear window, and the whole camper or bed assembly has to come off to repair it - I'd be pretty pissed at myself. If I find a 5" tank in similar dimensions, I'd go for it no question. 813 has a great tank setup (only 3.25" thick) but at only 8 gallons it's just not quite there for me.

I have a prototype 10Gal aluminum tank and still plan to have some made. It is the same thickness as the 8Gal plastic tank. The plastic tank is 60", the aluminum tank it approx 56". I realized with the plastic tank that you need some space for fittings if you want to re-install the side panels of the camper. I would be very cautious to go much thicker 4". The center of the rear window curves in toward the camper. I have experimented building a few items for this area, and continue to work on some new products. I would personally never go beyond 4" thickness on any of my designs due to the flex just to be safe. I have heard of a few Tacomas and Gladiators breaking the rear window with the camper installed. It was quite the task to replace the glass.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Several people noticed the spigot I added to my RotopaX Water Container. They asked if I made a kit, so I decided to put some together for those that are interested. The kit comes with stainless steel spigot, stainless steel cap, Delrin spacer and gasket grade cork gasket. It is not a unique idea as there are many like this online. I designed my own spacer and gasket only to work with the spigot. Available on the website if you are interested!

https://813fabrication.com/products/rotopax-stainless-steel-spigot-kit

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Version 2 of our Starlink Mini Crossbar Flush Mount. The top section of the mount is CNC milled from 1/4" white HDPE for sun and UV reflection. The solid top provides protection for your Starlink Mini from hail and weather. The mounting brackets and security tab are made from 1/8" powder coated white aluminum.

The mount allows the Starlink foot to remain on the dish so that the mount can still be used on any flat surface if removed from your crossbars. The security tab and security cable can also be used to tether the Starlink and mount in other locations if removed from your crossbars.

Designed to sit flush on adjustable crossbars. Security cable and stainless hardware for mounting your Starlink Mini to the mount are included. Crossbar mounting hardware is NOT included. There are so many variations of hardware to work with different crossbars, so it is difficult to include this hardware.

https://813fabrication.com/products/starlink-mini-crossbar-flush-mount-hdpe-top

 

[cug]

Anyone going to Overland Expo this weekend?

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