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Another One Bites The Dust - Tick Of Death

Ramboy

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Officially just became a card-carrying member of the "Pentastar Haters Club"

2022 Rubicon. 27K miles. Tick of death started. Pulled the RH cover and the #5 intake cam was chewed down almost eighth of an inch . My rig has a rebuilt title so no warranty for this guy.:(

My original plan all along consisted of "hope I'm not one of the (many) unlucky ones" followed by "toss this POS motor in the dumpster and install a V8".

But fate is rarely so kind to me. It happened while I am 1500 miles from home attending the funeral of my father. So I'm forced to order a Mullin aftermarket cam kit and have a local shop do the work for me just so I can get me and my 3 dogs home (wife already said "F- THIS SH-!" and jumped a plane)

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That really sux! Hope you can get ‘er fixed. My one rig with the 3.6 pentastar only has 13k miles so no problems yet (using exclusively Amsoil); I drive my 2.0 turbo most of the time. This is one reason I probably won’t buy another gladiator unless (until?) they put in a 5.7.
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johnchabin

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Does the “Mullin aftermarket cam kit” have a different material or design? Are there any other aftermarket cam kits available?
 

Sandman 4x4

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What is the cause of this? Obviously it's a well know issue, so what is the first sign this is happening and can it be prevented? I had a 2013 Wrangler with the Pentastar, but had to trade it in after only about 32,000 miles, and I didn't have any problems with it. My wife currently has a 2018 JLUS with over 100,000 miles, and hers hasn't had any issues, either. Is this something with the latest generation of the engine? Thank you!
What oil are you using in your wife’s?
 

Sandman 4x4

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If for some reason the premature wear of certain parts are due to lubrication, or lack of? Too bad nobody has tried to add a supplemental oil feed to the top of the valve cover, that would feed more oil right to the area. That would hopefully help. Or it’s just a flaw in the metallurgy process of the cams. I just can’t believe Jeep has not corrected the issue by now!
 

Vanderberg

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Just sharing my thoughts here... which are 4 fold...

1) no motor likes "dry starts"
2) overhead cam motors dont like to be "idled" too much
3) over head cam motors need much more frequent oil changes
4) Oil viscosity permanently & steadily drops as you drive (viscosity break down is a very real thing)

So... as much as possible... hiway drive it, change oil more frequently than recommended, consider running one grade higher oil (5w30 instead of 0w20)... especially after it comes off warranty.

Thats all you can do really... the rest is up to fate. That or trade it off the moment they go off warranty... but now youre spending $100 to fix a $10 problem so to speak.
 

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Jeepin Jake

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My 2025 has joined the club at 14k miles, top end is open at the dealership right now awaiting what's next, been only 4 days so we shall see what happens
 

Vanderberg

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What oil do you run ?
I do 2 things...

0 to 60,000km (warranty period) I run factory recommended (0w20) and I dump the oil every 4,000km myself (+/-mid interval). Goes to dealer for recommended maintenance.

60,000km and above (off warranty) I run 5W30 and I continue to dump the oil every 4,000km myself. Goes to my mechanic of choice for continued recommended maintenance.

I also have a Tazer Mini so I only idle my engine in "winch mode" at 1700rpm.
 

aceinfinity

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So basically you drop the oil mid cycle. Do you use the same oil as the dealer and how many quarts ?
 

Vanderberg

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So basically you drop the oil mid cycle. Do you use the same oil as the dealer and how many quarts ?
Yes... I dont think people realize how much viscosity oil loses over time/use. If 0W20 is questionable when fresh... it is definitely sub standard for the last half of the oil change interval.

I have a supercharged surf boat that takes 0W40 and at about 30 engine hrs into the oil change interval... the drop in oil pressure is noticeable. So I also do a mid interval swap out to fresh 0W40 and the "normal" oil pressure comes right back with the new oil.

I dont normally get too fixated on brand of oil as long as it meets manufacturers testing standard. I fill and maintain level according to factory engine dipstick.

The only car I owned that needed more oil than factory was a 2007 C6 Z06 Corvette with the LS7. Lingenfelter made an increased capacity (1.5L from what I recall) dry sump tank for that specific purpose. I definetly dont recommend over filling any engine as it usually makes a mess of the intake manifold and top of the intake valves. Engines are normally pretty good at getting rid of excess oil in that way.
 

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Lochsa

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Jeep really needs to get their shit together. I been through this starting at 500 miles. So far with 12000 miles of ownership it has gone through two cam shafts, thee banks of lifter/rockers, three cam phasers, timing chains and guides. It is finally quiet, but tons of metal still in the oil from all of the pentastar devoured parts. After 2500 miles since the last fix, I took it back to the dealer and asked what is the solution for all of the metal in the oil. The oil filter is loaded. I believe during the Tavares years, Jeep cheaped out on suppliers and received cheap parts in return. It seems to random to be a design flaw. I have had a Jeep in the garage for the last 30 years, never had a problem like this.
Here is the thread I started last year: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/another-cam-bites-the-dust.98145/
Good luck with yours!
 

ArcticDreadnought

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IT PUTS THE OILS IN THE BASKET.
 
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Does the “Mullin aftermarket cam kit” have a different material or design? Are there any other aftermarket cam kits available?
No design differences as it is a stock replacement kit. Almost certainly material differences as it is not the same factory.

Now....Different for the better? Different for the worse? I would say "time will tell" but I have no intention of still running the Pentastar 27K miles from now. My goal is to get it home, then sell the motor and apply the funds toward a V8.

Everybody has a theory as to what causes the 3.6L to do this. So many that almost certainly one of them is right. Pick your favorite. What type oil you run. Idle vs. never idle. Oil filter drains out overnight. Wave a dead chicken over it after every oil change. Whatever helps you sleep.

Me? I'm not really interested in the "why". I know I did nothing "wrong" to cause this. So I'm leaning more toward the "F me once, shame on you. F me twice, shame on me" logic.

No way in hell am I keeping this ticking time bomb under my hood.
 

Setec641A

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What oil are you using in your wife’s?
I don't change her oil. I did once, and I thought it was 5W30, so that's what I used, since that's what my F150 uses. IIRC, it said something else on the oil cap, but I knew the 5W30 wasn't going to hurt anything. I'm assuming the mechanic uses what it says on the filler cap.. I suppose I could stroll out to the garage and look, huh? I'm getting lazy in my old age. Be right back...
 
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Setec641A

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My 2025 has joined the club at 14k miles, top end is open at the dealership right now awaiting what's next, been only 4 days so we shall see what happens
That blows, sorry. Hopefully they're honoring the warranty?
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