ARB dual compressor rear seat install with 4XE air conversion cowl.

[Sav_Gladiator]

Good afternoon everyone!

The under seat storage from @813 Fabrication & Design and the Viair 2 gallon tank arrived yesterday and I finally had some time to get them installed and start mocking up some stuff.

Here is the under seat storage installed with the air tank just sitting there. This is where I plan to mount the tank. It's an easy install, you just use the provided hardware, 4 spacers and 4 new bolts and washers, using the stock threaded holes. I did not end up using the spacers that came with it because it caused the Viair air tank to stick up to high for the seat to come down all the way. I also didn't end up using the locking pieces either because of that but, I didn't plan on using them to begin with. To install the storage I used the factory bolts that held down the original storage piece.

I flipped the tank to put the bottom port farther away from the ARB coupler. I'm kind of undecided if I will keep it this way. I used the air hose that came with the kit to do a little measuring. It's pretty close but could be an inch to inch and half shorter. If I change it and put the port closer to the coupler the line will be about 10 inches or so long. Either way I will need to have a air line made. Also in the pictures below you can see the two JIC04M connectors. One will have the air supply line for the front cowl and the other will be the feed line from the ABR dual compressor to the tank. Nothing has been tightened yet. I am just measuring for the lines and seeing how I like it.

To mount the tank to the storage piece you will either need large washer or to drill new holes. I prefer large washers myself but I will probably make my own that will be rectangular. I did get lucky though and found some pieces from something else I installed (I don't remember what it was). These pieces were included in what ever it was, but they were for a different vehicle. I think they may have been from the universal roll bar I had on my the Colorado, which I do not have any more.

These pieces worked perfectly to secure the tank. They were threaded, square, and already came with bolts. I also have a piece of damping foam under the tank so it's not resting metal on metal. I will also be adding bottom bolts once I make some rectangular washers for it.

That is pretty much it for now but more to come soon.

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[813 Fabrication & Design]

Good afternoon everyone!

The under seat storage from @813 Fabrication & Design and the Viair 2 gallon tank arrived yesterday and I finally had some time to get them installed and start mocking up some stuff.

Here is the under seat storage installed with the air tank just sitting there. This is where I plan to mount the tank. It's an easy install, you just use the provided hardware, 4 spacers and 4 new bolts and washers, using the stock threaded holes. I did not end up using the spacers that came with it because it caused the Viair air tank to stick up to high for the seat to come down all the way. I also didn't end up using the locking pieces either because of that but, I didn't plan on using them to begin with. To install the storage I used the factory bolts that held down the original storage piece.

I flipped the tank to put the bottom port farther away from the ARB coupler. I'm kind of undecided if I will keep it this way. I used the air hose that came with the kit to do a little measuring. It's pretty close but could be an inch to inch and half shorter. If I change it and put the port closer to the coupler the line will be about 10 inches or so long. Either way I will need to have a air line made. Also in the pictures below you can see the two JIC04M connectors. One will have the air supply line for the front cowl and the other will be the feed line from the ABR dual compressor to the tank. Nothing has been tightened yet. I am just measuring for the lines and seeing how I like it.

To mount the tank to the storage piece you will either need large washer or to drill new holes. I prefer large washers myself but I will probably make my own that will be rectangular. I did get lucky though and found some pieces from something else I installed (I don't remember what it was). These pieces were included in what ever it was, but they were for a different vehicle. I think they may have been from the universal roll bar I had on my the Colorado, which I do not have any more.

These pieces worked perfectly to secure the tank. They were threaded, square, and already came with bolts. I also have a piece of damping foam under the tank so it's not resting metal on metal. I will also be adding bottom bolts once I make some rectangular washers for it.

That is pretty much it for now but more to come soon.

Looking great!

 

[Sav_Gladiator]

Getting some test fitting in today. I finished getting the hoses made that I needed. Decided to flip the tank. In this picture you can see the feed line to the air couple on the side, the feed line coming from the tank and the empty hook up on the bottom (can't really see that part) will feed the coupler at the 4XE cowl air conversion on the outside.

This is the feed line from the compressor to the tank. The blue tape is were I plan on securing it with some padded hose clamps.

I did have an issue with the 90 degree hitting my seat with the nozzle pointing upwards, it would rub and catch a little when I would lay the seat down and put it back up. Not sure if it's something I did when installing it or not. I removed the netting on trim piece to make sure it was against the back wall and moved the ARB pump lower in the mounting bracket. I was never going to use that netting pocket anyway. I ended up pointing the 90 on the compressor down and attaching another 90 to have it go to the side, this seemed to fix the rubbing issue. I created a channel through some of the plastic to take the pressure off the hose, this allowed it to lay flat. I then routed the hose under the seat to the tank as you saw in the other picture. I will also add some rubber trim to the area I cut away to prevent any rubbing on the hose.

 

[ToJTornottoJT]

@Sav_Gladiator how are you going to drain condensation out of the air tank? Or is this not a factor somehow?

 

[Sav_Gladiator]

@Sav_Gladiator how are you going to drain condensation out of the air tank? Or is this not a factor somehow?

I’m probably going to add a water trap or put a drain on one side. There is still some work to do on it before I’m finished.

 

[ToJTornottoJT]

I’m probably going to add a water trap or put a drain on one side. There is still some work to do on it before I’m finished.

Ok, interesting. I am going to try to mount the same tank under the bed in front of the spare tire. I installed an air bag system in a lowrider truck with the same tank using a VIAIR system compressor and the condensation in the tank here in Arizona was insane. We tried a bunch of different valves and water separators and ultimately ended up going with just a manual petcock valve. I have a single ARB compressor in my XJ and have zero condensation issues. I am not sure why or what the differences are. It has the ARB 1 gallong tank on it.

 

[Sav_Gladiator]

Ok, interesting. I am going to try to mount the same tank under the bed in front of the spare tire. I installed an air bag system in a lowrider truck with the same tank using a VIAIR system compressor and the condensation in the tank here in Arizona was insane. We tried a bunch of different valves and water separators and ultimately ended up going with just a manual petcock valve. I have a single ARB compressor in my XJ and have zero condensation issues. I am not sure why or what the differences are. It has the ARB 1 gallong tank on it.

I’ll probably just use a manual valve. I haven’t had much success with water traps myself.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Getting some test fitting in today. I finished getting the hoses made that I needed. Decided to flip the tank. In this picture you can see the feed line to the air couple on the side, the feed line coming from the tank and the empty hook up on the bottom (can't really see that part) will feed the coupler at the 4XE cowl air conversion on the outside.

This is the feed line from the compressor to the tank. The blue tape is were I plan on securing it with some padded hose clamps.

I did have an issue with the 90 degree hitting my seat with the nozzle pointing upwards, it would rub and catch a little when I would lay the seat down and put it back up. Not sure if it's something I did when installing it or not. I removed the netting on trim piece to make sure it was against the back wall and moved the ARB pump lower in the mounting bracket. I was never going to use that netting pocket anyway. I ended up pointing the 90 on the compressor down and attaching another 90 to have it go to the side, this seemed to fix the rubbing issue. I created a channel through some of the plastic to take the pressure off the hose, this allowed it to lay flat. I then routed the hose under the seat to the tank as you saw in the other picture. I will also add some rubber trim to the area I cut away to prevent any rubbing on the hose.

Looks great!

 

[Sav_Gladiator]

Install complete!

I was able to finish up the install this weekend and get some pictures to post.

First, if you do not have one of these wire pullers, I highly recommend getting one. Easiest way to pull wires through hard to reach areas. I bought this one off amazon.

Here is the route the wires went through. I removed all of the driver side trim panels butt the rear one. I also removed the net pocket in the back, it would never be used anyway and provided a little more space for the compressor.

The wire from Expedition Essentials is really nice, it is also very long (17 feet I believe). I ended up trimming about 6 feet off of it and putting a new connector on it. That wire combined with the wiring you get with the ARB compressor is way more than you need to run it from the back seat to the battery. If you are installing the compressor further towards the rear of the vehicle, like the bed, it is probably just about right.

This is how much was trimmed from the wire. This is about 6 feet of the original protective casing.

You can see the route of the braided hose line here. So far, there was no issue with it being there. I had no problem installing my Weather Tech floor mat back in to the vehicle.

The wires and air hose came through the hole that is already in the fire wall on the drivers side. You can see them in this photo coming out by the brake booster. This is before I put the new wire wrap on them to help protect the wiring. Before cutting the wires I marked each one so I would be able to put them back into the same location on the new connector.

In this picture you can see the route of the air hose turning back towards the cowl conversion kit. No issue with hitting the hood or rubbing but, I will probably add a small cushion to that area soon. Right now I just used some zip ties. The zip ties will be replaced with a hose clamp soon.

Once I went to install the trim panels back into the Gladiator I realized I would need to trim the bottom some due to the thickness of the compressor wiring. The compressor wiring would not allow it to snap back into place. I removed about a 1/4 to 3/8 of material in certain areas on the bottom of the front two trim pieces. This was easy to do with a Dremel and a cutting wheel. (it was getting dark and I didn't take any pictures of the trimming process.)

I removed my old Trigger 6 mounting plate which put the switch controller at almost a 45 degree angle and used the flat mounting plate from @813 Fabrication & Design. All I needed to do was drill new holes to mount the Trigger 6 on.

The following are just some pictures of the finished install. I am having a custom spacer made (friend of mine with a 3D printer) for the pressure gauge to eliminate the space between it and the under seat storage until from @813 Fabrication & Design.

I did have one leak when I tested it but it was my fault. I forgot to tightened one of the JIC-04 connection on the compressor. Once I tightened that up the tank held pressure at 150psi. The tank was empty when I took the photo though lol. All the lines were custom made at Hose Power. I did have the main one made at Hydraulic supply at first but I replaced it with a Hose Power one. Hose Power lines had an actual inner diameter of .25 while the Hydraulic Supply lines were .19. Both are great hoses, I just wanted that .25 inner diameter. The braided hose is not that pricey, it's the JIC-04 connectors that are pricey.

There is just something special about braided lines that makes everything look better to me. Also, don't mind the mess and dog hair.

Quick test of the air system at the cowl. The air chuck had a small leak because the pin hole air piece was not tightened all the way. I WOULD ALSO TURN YOUR VOLUME DOWN BEFORE YOU PLAY THE VIDEO. It gets a little loud when I hit the lever. I think I was to close when recording.

That is pretty much it. I had a great time installing and writing this up. Hopefully it will help someone out in the future. If anyone has any questions, please let me know.

 

[813 Fabrication & Design]

Install complete!

I was able to finish up the install this weekend and get some pictures to post.

First, if you do not have one of these wire pullers, I highly recommend getting one. Easiest way to pull wires through hard to reach areas. I bought this one off amazon.

Here is the route the wires went through. I removed all of the driver side trim panels butt the rear one. I also removed the net pocket in the back, it would never be used anyway and provided a little more space for the compressor.

The wire from Expedition Essentials is really nice, it is also very long (17 feet I believe). I ended up trimming about 6 feet off of it and putting a new connector on it. That wire combined with the wiring you get with the ARB compressor is way more than you need to run it from the back seat to the battery. If you are installing the compressor further towards the rear of the vehicle, like the bed, it is probably just about right.

This is how much was trimmed from the wire. This is about 6 feet of the original protective casing.

You can see the route of the braided hose line here. So far, there was no issue with it being there. I had no problem installing my Weather Tech floor mat back in to the vehicle.

The wires and air hose came through the hole that is already in the fire wall on the drivers side. You can see them in this photo coming out by the brake booster. This is before I put the new wire wrap on them to help protect the wiring. Before cutting the wires I marked each one so I would be able to put them back into the same location on the new connector.

In this picture you can see the route of the air hose turning back towards the cowl conversion kit. No issue with hitting the hood or rubbing but, I will probably add a small cushion to that area soon. Right now I just used some zip ties. The zip ties will be replaced with a hose clamp soon.

Once I went to install the trim panels back into the Gladiator I realized I would need to trim the bottom some due to the thickness of the compressor wiring. The compressor wiring would not allow it to snap back into place. I removed about a 1/4 to 3/8 of material in certain areas on the bottom of the front two trim pieces. This was easy to do with a Dremel and a cutting wheel. (it was getting dark and I didn't take any pictures of the trimming process.)

I removed my old Trigger 6 mounting plate which put the switch controller at almost a 45 degree angle and used the flat mounting plate from @813 Fabrication & Design. All I needed to do was drill new holes to mount the Trigger 6 on.

The following are just some pictures of the finished install. I am having a custom spacer made (friend of mine with a 3D printer) for the pressure gauge to eliminate the space between it and the under seat storage until from @813 Fabrication & Design.

I did have one leak when I tested it but it was my fault. I forgot to tightened one of the JIC-04 connection on the compressor. Once I tightened that up the tank held pressure at 150psi. The tank was empty when I took the photo though lol. All the lines were custom made at Hose Power. I did have the main one made at Hydraulic supply at first but I replaced it with a Hose Power one. Hose Power lines had an actual inner diameter of .25 while the Hydraulic Supply lines were .19. Both are great hoses, I just wanted that .25 inner diameter. The braided hose is not that pricey, it's the JIC-04 connectors that are pricey.

There is just something special about braided lines that makes everything look better to me. Also, don't mind the mess and dog hair.

Quick test of the air system at the cowl. The air chuck had a small leak because the pin hole air piece was not tightened all the way. I WOULD ALSO TURN YOUR VOLUME DOWN BEFORE YOU PLAY THE VIDEO. It gets a little loud when I hit the lever. I think I was to close when recording.

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That is pretty much it. I had a great time installing and writing this up. Hopefully it will help someone out in the future. If anyone has any questions, please let me know.

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Awesome setup! Thanks for sharing

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