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Automatic Transmission fluid change interval s on 2021 JT

Stan H

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I have never advocated to never change the fluid. To change a fluid, that the manufacturer says doesn't need changed, is reckless while it is under warranty. Jeep provides the warranty for the transmission. The official stance is that it is a lifetime fill and doesn't need changed, under normal operating conditions.

I was contemplating changing mine at 60k miles, based on the recommendation of the transmission designer. It never became an issue because I traded it at 57k miles for a new one.

Each person needs to weigh their options, considering all the factors, and decide which path to go down. I find it disheartening at how many people get so upset when others don't accept their line of thinking.
You whole deal with "lifetime" is the "life" of the warranty . 60k. Do you find it odd 🤔 or is it just me that that happens to be the exact general miles that ZF says a change shoild be done. That fluid was engineered for 60k period !!!!
You traded in at 57k some aren't in the situation and if the frame and body are good are stuck with maintenance beyond your 57k when they reach the 60K mark they have to do a pan drop ,filter fluid change and ultimately two or 3 more threw a much shorter period to effectively have worked out the other near 3 quarts that is in the lines , cooler and torque converter that doesn't come out with a pan drop,filter and oil change .
What I don't understand @Mr._Bill is why are you even in this topic when you traded before the change was due 🤔 🙄
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AmosMoses

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I changed mine at 50k. Got rid of a faint whine I had accelerating from a stop after the transmission temps rose to 180 degrees. I put a better transmission pan on it with a drain plug and Iam happy with the results.

I wouldn't recommend the average person, who doesn't wrench much do it themselves, especially before the warranty is up.
 

Mr._Bill

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You whole deal with "lifetime" is the "life" of the warranty . 60k. Do you find it odd 🤔 or is it just me that that happens to be the exact general miles that ZF says a change shoild be done. That fluid was engineered for 60k period !!!!
You traded in at 57k some aren't in the situation and if the frame and body are good are stuck with maintenance beyond your 57k when they reach the 60K mark they have to do a pan drop ,filter fluid change and ultimately two or 3 more threw a much shorter period to effectively have worked out the other near 3 quarts that is in the lines , cooler and torque converter that doesn't come out with a pan drop,filter and oil change .
What I don't understand @Mr._Bill is why are you even in this topic when you traded before the change was due 🤔 🙄
Does it matter why? I'm here. I'm like the other Bill, I remember what I read and share it back. There is a lot of fear mongering here leading people to believe their transmission will fail if they don't change the fluid. That is just not true. In fact, the longest running thread about a failure came after the fluid was changed.

I investigated this topic determining if I was going to have a fluid change done. I ended up trading the truck for a new one. The original plan was to keep it long term, but that changed.

As I have repeatedly stated, each person needs to do their own evaluation and make a decision how to proceed. Due to Jeeps official stance, it is a risk to do anything with the transmission while it is under warranty. Yes, it doesn't help that Jeep does not publish any figures to clarify their definition of lifetime, or that their stance on maintenance differs from that of the transmission designer.
 

Stan H

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Does it matter why? I'm here. I'm like the other Bill, I remember what I read and share it back. There is a lot of fear mongering here leading people to believe their transmission will fail if they don't change the fluid. That is just not true. In fact, the longest running thread about a failure came after the fluid was changed.

I investigated this topic determining if I was going to have a fluid change done. I ended up trading the truck for a new one. The original plan was to keep it long term, but that changed.

As I have repeatedly stated, each person needs to do their own evaluation and make a decision how to proceed. Due to Jeeps official stance, it is a risk to do anything with the transmission while it is under warranty. Yes, it doesn't help that Jeep does not publish any figures to clarify their definition of lifetime, or that their stance on maintenance differs from that of the transmission designer.
If it is a risk to do it under warranty then why isn't it a risk to do it out of warranty ?
Dude , who you work for the spin dept. for Stellanis . Man I think I smell Manure . Huge piles of it . If the Engine is covered for 60K with multiple oil and filter changes then the transmission would be also. They can go get screwed.
 

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You whole deal with "lifetime" is the "life" of the warranty . 60k. Do you find it odd 🤔 or is it just me that that happens to be the exact general miles that ZF says a change shoild be done. That fluid was engineered for 60k period !!!!
You traded in at 57k some aren't in the situation and if the frame and body are good are stuck with maintenance beyond your 57k when they reach the 60K mark they have to do a pan drop ,filter fluid change and ultimately two or 3 more threw a much shorter period to effectively have worked out the other near 3 quarts that is in the lines , cooler and torque converter that doesn't come out with a pan drop,filter and oil change .
What I don't understand @Mr._Bill is why are you even in this topic when you traded before the change was due 🤔 🙄
Agreed. If I was trading out before the Powertrain warranty, I wouldn’t even look at the transmission.
 

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Mr._Bill

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If it is a risk to do it under warranty then why isn't it a risk to do it out of warranty ?
Dude , who you work for the spin dept. for Stellanis . Man I think I smell Manure . Huge piles of it . If the Engine is covered for 60K with multiple oil and filter changes then the transmission would be also. They can go get screwed.
Under warranty, the risk is you may have to bear the cost if it breaks because they can blame it on you for messing with it. Out of warranty, you already know it is going to cost you if it breaks. Changing the fluid and filter is an effort to prolong the life and keep it from breaking.

That is a poor comparison. The warranty for the engine requires the oil to be changed, as per the schedule provided. The warranty for the transmission essentially requires it to be left alone, under normal operating conditions.

Like it or not, makes sense or not, those are the conditions provided by the manufacturer and warranty provider.
 

Maximus Gladius

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In fact, the longest running thread about a failure came after the fluid was changed.
You again didn’t pay attention to the facts so you should not mislead as you do so well. You are an FCA “yes man” insider and just like you, the very best of the FCA investigation team who was ordered to investigate what happened with my transmission deliberately and intentionally refused to consider the proof from oil analysis that my transmission was cooked BEFORE I did anything to it. It did not “fail” according to your rendition of facts and just as their line of thinking and mandate was to ignore the proof, at the end of the day they didn’t stand behind their product nor behind my mandate (outlined in my very clear, not “basically” book) to change the oil.

Just as the stiff necked suits believed that “the transmission was working until I changed the oil”, you would see an aircraft in a ball of flames heading for the ground and say that there’s nothing wrong with it, it’s still flying.

Don’t use my case to bolster anything you have to say.
 

Maximus Gladius

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Here’s the reason several of us, NOW, use and rely on oil analysis reports to tell us not only the condition of the oil but it also shows us the health state of the component we’re checking. If we know there’s a problem, like in my case, (I can speak about it and get the facts right at the same time), the report here was what I first obtained when I heard a faint whine in the transmission while on a road trip to BC from Alberta. My book, doesn’t basically say I needed to leave things be, it mandates me to investigate. If I was to find contamination in the oil like “water, etc”, I’m to “change the oil”.

Question @Mr._Bill (FCA insider), how does one “investigate” if you can’t tell from just looking at it? Do you open the forbidden fill hole and stick your finger in there and pull it out to find “water, etc” on it? Do you rub your fingers together to feel “water, etc”? Can smelling your finger you shoved in the hole satisfy your curiosity to what’s wrong or do you send a sample to the lab? So, if you guessed the lab part, you’d be right.

The lab report that was done BEFORE the infamous oil change flush that according to you, destroyed the perfectly operating transmission….. say with me, all together “B E F O R E”, ….Bill I need you to participate with the class and not stare at me in cold stone defiance,… say it,…. “B E F O R E”, good, this report was given to the dealership who said, “Chrysler would not view this transmission as broken because it still works”. The FCA investigative team REFUSED to consider the report proving the transmission was cooked and on its way out because of the glycol contamination, say with me Bill…”R E F U S E D”, good, you’re learning, you’ll be alright. They made a choice, the whole barn load of them willfully and willingly signed on to go along with the lie that the fault with the transmission was that AMSOIL was put in that caused it to implode.

I’ll tell you something else, I have the lab report that analyzed fresh Mopar 8/9 speed ATF and AMSOIL FE ATF and would you believe me if I told you they are nearly or “basically” identical in additive package?

The report I’m let you see again proves the tranny was cooked. No one here, including you didn’t tell me that and I also never dealt with this before. The yellow highlights from the lab indicates abnormal numbers. The items the highlights represent, from top to bottom are as follows at only 21k kms, 9 months after driving off the lot.
Copper 600ppm
Iron 768ppm
Sodium 10
(trace - glycol contamination)

If you were to gather reports of other “like or same” transmissions in perfect running and operating order at or around 50-60k miles or about 90-100k kms, the copper should read somewhere around 150ppm and Iron in the same ish neighborhood.

Are there any experts or oil analysis users out there that would like to comment on these numbers and provide expert or non expert opinion as to the state of my transmission BEFORE, (Bill, there’s that word again) I did what my book mandated me to do?

Jeep Gladiator Automatic Transmission fluid change interval s on 2021 JT IMG_4151
 

JTGuy

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The dealer wants to re flash my trans to cure the reverse clunk. I'll probably do a fluid change after that.
 

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The dealer wants to re flash my trans to cure the reverse clunk. I'll probably do a fluid change after that.
My reverse clunk became a total transmission replacement out of warranty at 33K miles. Be careful!
 

ShadowsPapa

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My reverse clunk became a total transmission replacement out of warranty at 33K miles. Be careful!
Why be careful??

33K miles isn't out of warranty - or - did you mean it was 33K OUT of the warranty period, which is closer to 100,000 miles.
Shit happens. In this case, it happened to you. Doesn't mean it's going to be a big thing for everyone else.


(this is another thread that should have died long ago)
 

Stan H

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Here’s the reason several of us, NOW, use and rely on oil analysis reports to tell us not only the condition of the oil but it also shows us the health state of the component we’re checking. If we know there’s a problem, like in my case, (I can speak about it and get the facts right at the same time), the report here was what I first obtained when I heard a faint whine in the transmission while on a road trip to BC from Alberta. My book, doesn’t basically say I needed to leave things be, it mandates me to investigate. If I was to find contamination in the oil like “water, etc”, I’m to “change the oil”.

Question @Mr._Bill (FCA insider), how does one “investigate” if you can’t tell from just looking at it? Do you open the forbidden fill hole and stick your finger in there and pull it out to find “water, etc” on it? Do you rub your fingers together to feel “water, etc”? Can smelling your finger you shoved in the hole satisfy your curiosity to what’s wrong or do you send a sample to the lab? So, if you guessed the lab part, you’d be right.

The lab report that was done BEFORE the infamous oil change flush that according to you, destroyed the perfectly operating transmission….. say with me, all together “B E F O R E”, ….Bill I need you to participate with the class and not stare at me in cold stone defiance,… say it,…. “B E F O R E”, good, this report was given to the dealership who said, “Chrysler would not view this transmission as broken because it still works”. The FCA investigative team REFUSED to consider the report proving the transmission was cooked and on its way out because of the glycol contamination, say with me Bill…”R E F U S E D”, good, you’re learning, you’ll be alright. They made a choice, the whole barn load of them willfully and willingly signed on to go along with the lie that the fault with the transmission was that AMSOIL was put in that caused it to implode.

I’ll tell you something else, I have the lab report that analyzed fresh Mopar 8/9 speed ATF and AMSOIL FE ATF and would you believe me if I told you they are nearly or “basically” identical in additive package?

The report I’m let you see again proves the tranny was cooked. No one here, including you didn’t tell me that and I also never dealt with this before. The yellow highlights from the lab indicates abnormal numbers. The items the highlights represent, from top to bottom are as follows at only 21k kms, 9 months after driving off the lot.
Copper 600ppm
Iron 768ppm
Sodium 10
(trace - glycol contamination)

If you were to gather reports of other “like or same” transmissions in perfect running and operating order at or around 50-60k miles or about 90-100k kms, the copper should read somewhere around 150ppm and Iron in the same ish neighborhood.

Are there any experts or oil analysis users out there that would like to comment on these numbers and provide expert or non expert opinion as to the state of my transmission BEFORE, (Bill, there’s that word again) I did what my book mandated me to do?

IMG_4151.webp
I’ll tell you something else, I have the lab report that analyzed fresh Mopar 8/9 speed ATF and AMSOIL FE ATF and would you believe me if I told you they are nearly or “basically” identical in additive package?
This I totally believe because if they released the spec to them to allow them to make a formulated specification then it must be nearly identical.
We have talked at length about my problems and yesterday and again today my JT is having the transmission replaced. The electronics and valving have been problematic on mine for at least 30-40k and I finally am trying to get it resolved . I made this statement before .
If it shifted into the gear it was solidly in it ...with No slippage. It just would NOT shift in reverse ALOT and 3rd to 4th was a doozy. Codes were always for TCM communication problems .
 

Pismo61

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60k change sounds about right to me.
 

Maximus Gladius

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Codes were always for TCM communication problems
Did you by chance ever water ford or have the TCM connector under water? (You may know its location) behind the passenger wheel well liner and located just under the AUX battery. In case you know where it is, have you disconnected it, inspect it for water ingress or and cleaned it out or done any kind of maintenance to it to clean and lubricate the pins?

When I investigated mine, some time ago, I took my TCM apart and sprayed out both mating surfaces with DeoxIT D5 then top coated with DeoxIT Sn5 and put them back together. So far so good. All the pins are communicating.

I think many of our operating issues can be some grounding gremlin in a connector. As you know, we have so many of these major connectors that are “water proof” but I think using this cleaner and spray is just another line of defence that works in our favour to maintain communications.

Not too long ago, I had a code that said I had an injector stuck open. If I thought the worst, I was looking at tearing off the top of the engine to get at the connector and injector but because the wiring goes into a harness and this harness eventually ends up at the major connector to the ECM, and because that connector is just easy to get at, I pulled it apart (which automatically reboots the system) and I sprayed it out with the DeoxIT and put it back together… no more stuck open injector. A big problem for me, became simple.

Jeep Gladiator Automatic Transmission fluid change interval s on 2021 JT IMG_3507


Jeep Gladiator Automatic Transmission fluid change interval s on 2021 JT IMG_3515


Jeep Gladiator Automatic Transmission fluid change interval s on 2021 JT IMG_3503


Jeep Gladiator Automatic Transmission fluid change interval s on 2021 JT IMG_3501


Jeep Gladiator Automatic Transmission fluid change interval s on 2021 JT IMG_3498


Jeep Gladiator Automatic Transmission fluid change interval s on 2021 JT IMG_3496
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