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Aux battery brand recommendations

Istvanwalker

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Mine seems to be dead. I see a variation online in pricing between $50 and $180.

Anyone have recommendations?
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Mr._Bill

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If one is going, the other is not far behind. The average life expectancy is about three years. Save yourself some torment and replace both of them.

ACDelco Gold AUX14-200 (88866185) 36 Month Warranty Auxiliary AGM 200 CCA Battery https://a.co/d/4pjHO9T

ACDelco Gold 94RAGM (88864542) 36 Month Warranty AGM BCI Group 94R Battery https://a.co/d/eYyro4n
 

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I would consider saving your money and deleting it all together, thus removing another failure point. The only reason I still have mine is because it failed when I was on vacation traveling in Tx and it was just easier to take to a dealership to get replaced under warranty and get back to my vacation. Also, if you havent already replaced your starter battery, may want to look into that, usually when the Aux goes, the main battery is not far behind. I decided to get a bigger group 94R Optima battery when I replaced the Aux battery.
 

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Autozone for the aux battery and Wally World for the main
 

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willys 41

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Delete Auxiliary battery
 

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Mine seems to be dead. I see a variation online in pricing between $50 and $180.

Anyone have recommendations?
I have been having great luck with Napa. Not so much with Delco had bought one that had a shorted cell right off the shelf. Could have just been my luck but not going there again lesson learned
 
OP
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Istvanwalker

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If one is going, the other is not far behind. The average life expectancy is about three years. Save yourself some torment and replace both of them.

ACDelco Gold AUX14-200 (88866185) 36 Month Warranty Auxiliary AGM 200 CCA Battery https://a.co/d/4pjHO9T

ACDelco Gold 94RAGM (88864542) 36 Month Warranty AGM BCI Group 94R Battery https://a.co/d/eYyro4n
I bought both these both. Hooray Amazon. Thanks for the links.
 

Mr._Bill

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I bought both these both. Hooray Amazon. Thanks for the links.
Be sure to fully charge each one before installation. Be careful and keep all the cable ends isolated while changing so there are no accidental shorts. Fully disconnect the IBS (on Main battery negative post) for at least ten minutes to reset it.
 

HooliganActual

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Be sure to fully charge each one before installation. Be careful and keep all the cable ends isolated while changing so there are no accidental shorts. Fully disconnect the IBS (on Main battery negative post) for at least ten minutes to reset it.
Just curious...I always see people say to fully disconnect the IBS but have wondered if that statement means to just lift the negative leads or does that mean to actually unbolt if from the leads?
 

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So I know Op has already decided to replace both and some advise aux delete. I'm here to offer 2 solutions that cost a healthy chunk but to me is totally worth it and what I'll be upgrading to when my batteries inevitably give me the middle finger. (most likely in bum fuck nowhere cus my garage would be too easy)

So, lithium conversion!

Lets hop our happy ass's over to AntiGravity Batteries and pick up ourselves a Group 94r 80ah battery. This bad boy paired with a AUX delete nets you a whopping 2000! cold cranking amps, shaves 40lbs of weight over stock (payload gremlins gonna love this) and has an emergency crank feature to get you running should you mange to drain this unit of a battery. It also is self heating so you sub freezing guys can be worry free about lithium performance in cold weather.

All this for a measly $1400 buck. But hey it also last 3x longer then an AGM or Lead so 9 ish year of service broken down. hey its about the same as replacing a quality AGM every 3 years all in all.

Second option is just upgrade the AUX to an Antigravity as well and cus having extra juice is never a bad thing. At just 2.5lbs the AG YT12BS-12 is the perfect AUx replacement at 131 bucks.

And if you need to save a chunk of change you can get a smaller main battery for $720 at 10lbs, 1000 cca and 24ah with emergency crank.

Just food for thought.
 

Mr._Bill

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Just curious...I always see people say to fully disconnect the IBS but have wondered if that statement means to just lift the negative leads or does that mean to actually unbolt if from the leads?
Disconnect the cables attached to the IBS, and Disconnect the sensor wire. That leaves one module all by itself.

Just disconnecting it from the battery is supposed to be all that's needed. Unhooking all the cables is just to make sure.
 

Minty JL

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Either OEM or delete that shit
 

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So I know Op has already decided to replace both and some advise aux delete. I'm here to offer 2 solutions that cost a healthy chunk but to me is totally worth it and what I'll be upgrading to when my batteries inevitably give me the middle finger. (most likely in bum fuck nowhere cus my garage would be too easy)

So, lithium conversion!

Lets hop our happy ass's over to AntiGravity Batteries and pick up ourselves a Group 94r 80ah battery. This bad boy paired with a AUX delete nets you a whopping 2000! cold cranking amps, shaves 40lbs of weight over stock (payload gremlins gonna love this) and has an emergency crank feature to get you running should you mange to drain this unit of a battery. It also is self heating so you sub freezing guys can be worry free about lithium performance in cold weather.

All this for a measly $1400 buck. But hey it also last 3x longer then an AGM or Lead so 9 ish year of service broken down. hey its about the same as replacing a quality AGM every 3 years all in all.

Second option is just upgrade the AUX to an Antigravity as well and cus having extra juice is never a bad thing. At just 2.5lbs the AG YT12BS-12 is the perfect AUx replacement at 131 bucks.

And if you need to save a chunk of change you can get a smaller main battery for $720 at 10lbs, 1000 cca and 24ah with emergency crank.

Just food for thought.
I bought a Napa for my auxiliary battery has a lot more cranking amps than OEM, just hope it lasts longer than 3 years
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