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Aux battery delete help!!

ShadowsPapa

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but saving my starter and engine wear.
LOL - Engine wear.
Where in the world do people come up with this?
- "the internet", of course.

If you believe that, good luck.

I'm always amused at how non-techs, non-mechanics, will make such claims with no basis in fact.

Al Gore coined the concept of the Information Superhighway
My supervisor at Compressor Controls Corp had another name - "misinformation stupidhighway"
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ShadowsPapa

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One thing you were wrong about though, my ESS still works just using one battery. I keep it turned off much of the time, but use it occasionally when in traffic or a lot of lights. I connected its positive terminal to the main battery and put in the largest capacity main I could get.
Yeah, total lack of understanding how this whole system works has been demonstrated over and over.

Many companies use one large capacity battery and it works.
Jeep uses two batteries but it can be done with one larger capacity battery.
If I wanted to delete the auxiliary battery - I'd find a battery that has the equivalent CCA or AH rating as those two combined - and it would still function. However, if the voltage dropped far enough, you'd have potential trouble with the modules controlling things.

You have proven that many have a horrible lack of understanding of this system, or batteries and automotive electric systems in general.
 

82CJ5

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An amount of engine wear occurs at start up, probably as much as your engine turning off at red-light saves the environment, but it does occur.

So to the orginal poster, do not do this bypass under any circumstances. It is better to take it to the dealer and pay for them to change the auxiliary battery and run a full diagnostic to verify that everything is in exact factory specifications.
 

ShadowsPapa

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An amount of engine wear occurs at start up, probably as much as your engine turning off at red-light saves the environment, but it does occur.
Your sources, please........ explain.

- a non-tech, assumes, or has been told by another non-tech, non-engine builder, that more wear occurs turning that crankshaft 2 revolutions to restart it, as opposed to it running for 30+ seconds with full combustion pressure against the rods and main bearings?
Where does that wear come from? What causes it?
Show your sources and how you worked that out.

You truly believe that turning that warm engine over a couple of times to restart it when hot wears more than the pistons going up and down hundreds of times, dragging rings across the cylinder wall, the camshafts spinning in their bearings hundreds of times, the valves opening and closing, smacking against the valve seats, the valve stems running in the guides - that the wear of a running engine is nothing compared to typically 2 revolutions to start it while it's been experiencing no wear at all while sitting, off.
Great logic there.

Amazing how people prefer to believe what people with no or little real engine experience or training state vs. proven experiences, facts and logic.
Never ceases to amaze me.

Whatever, I guess, believe whatever you wish.
This is truly an amusing place at times.
 

82CJ5

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So you - a non-tech, assume, or have been told by another non-tech, non-engine builder, that more wear occurs turning that crankshaft 2 revolutions to restart it, as opposed to it running for 30+ seconds with full combustion pressure against the rods and main bearings?
Show your sources and how you worked that out.

You truly believe that turning that warm engine over a couple of times to restart it when hot wears more than the pistons going up and down hundreds of times, dragging rings across the cylinder wall, the camshafts spinning in their bearings hundreds of times, the valves opening and closing, smacking against the valve seats, the valve stems running in the guides - that the wear of a running engine is nothing compared to typically 2 revolutions to start it while it's been experiencing no wear at all while sitting, off.
Great logic there.

Amazing how people prefer to believe what people with no or little real engine experience or training state vs. proven experiences, facts and logic.
Never ceases to amaze me.

Whatever, I guess, believe whatever you wish.
This is truly an amusing place at times.
Dude, you are obviously the expert who can take 2 words from a post and write a whole paragraph about it, so I find that hilarious. The point is, auto start stop is a bad idea, in my opinion. If you love that feature and think it is an awesome engineering feat then keep it. I really don't care.

The original question was, which wire is eliminated in doing the simple bypass. I answered that question for the original poster.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Dude, you are obviously the expert who can take 2 words from a post and write a whole paragraph about it, so I find that hilarious. The point is, auto start stop is a bad idea, in my opinion. If you love that feature and think it is an awesome engineering feat then keep it. I really don't care.

The original question was, which wire is eliminated in doing the simple bypass. I answered that question for the original poster.
Hey, you were the one that stated it caused wear. Hundreds of people read that stuff. I corrected it so others aren't mislead by a false statement. I neither love nor hate it. It exists
 

salvino

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Yeah, total lack of understanding how this whole system works has been demonstrated over and over.

Many companies use one large capacity battery and it works.
Jeep uses two batteries but it can be done with one larger capacity battery.
If I wanted to delete the auxiliary battery - I'd find a battery that has the equivalent CCA or AH rating as those two combined - and it would still function. However, if the voltage dropped far enough, you'd have potential trouble with the modules controlling things.

You have proven that many have a horrible lack of understanding of this system, or batteries and automotive electric systems in general.
Generally, I’ve always liked the ESS system, except when the aux battery needed serviced. It’s accessibility is let’s say, not ideal. Now if there is an issue, dealing with it is much simpler.

I have a 100 AH lithium ion house battery to power the frig/freezer and other add ons. It’s charged via the alternator, shore power or solar. If the start battery gets too low, I can jump using it.
 

82CJ5

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Hey, you were the one that stated it caused wear. Hundreds of people read that stuff. I corrected it so others aren't mislead by a false statement. I neither love nor hate it. It exists
Keep up the good work. This forum needs you to keep it straight
 

rharr

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Your sources, please........ explain.

- a non-tech, assumes, or has been told by another non-tech, non-engine builder, that more wear occurs turning that crankshaft 2 revolutions to restart it, as opposed to it running for 30+ seconds with full combustion pressure against the rods and main bearings?
Where does that wear come from? What causes it?
Show your sources and how you worked that out.

You truly believe that turning that warm engine over a couple of times to restart it when hot wears more than the pistons going up and down hundreds of times, dragging rings across the cylinder wall, the camshafts spinning in their bearings hundreds of times, the valves opening and closing, smacking against the valve seats, the valve stems running in the guides - that the wear of a running engine is nothing compared to typically 2 revolutions to start it while it's been experiencing no wear at all while sitting, off.
Great logic there.

Amazing how people prefer to believe what people with no or little real engine experience or training state vs. proven experiences, facts and logic.
Never ceases to amaze me.

Whatever, I guess, believe whatever you wish.
This is truly an amusing place at times.
If this is such a great feature why wasn't it implemented 20 years ago, there is nothing magical about it. You would think it would have been even easier to implement 20 years ago when there were less electrics and less power demand in a car?
 

ShadowsPapa

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Yeah, as opposed to those who spread bad information about Jeeps.

It's yours, do what you wish, of course!
If this is such a great feature why wasn't it implemented 20 years ago, there is nothing magical about it. You would think it would have been even easier to implement 20 years ago when there were less electrics and less power demand in a car?
CAFE rules. It's harder and harder for companies to keep up with the ever-increasing CAFE requirements. They get credits for using such systems.
Anyway, it was - it actually was invented back in the 1970s or 80s. It's NOT new at all.
Toyota, then VW a bit later - due to the oil embargo and increasing fuel costs.
But today, it's due to CAFE numbers.
Today it's more complex due to having to track catalytic converter temperatures and many dozens of other factors.
 

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Qholic

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I did this quick bypass in about 5 min with no ill effects on the truck. Mine is a 2022, the auto start stop was not working, but I was not getting an error message, just that auto start stop was unavailable. I figured the aux battery was on its way out and I didn't want to mess with it. I pulled fuse 41, I undid the two ground wires, moved the bigger wire directly to the battery stud, taped up the the small wire end with large flange with built in stud for the larger wire and tucked it away. Done. Its been that way for a couple of months with no issues and no auto start stop.
 

Cavitt

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I did this quick bypass in about 5 min with no ill effects on the truck. Mine is a 2022, the auto start stop was not working, but I was not getting an error message, just that auto start stop was unavailable. I figured the aux battery was on its way out and I didn't want to mess with it. I pulled fuse 41, I undid the two ground wires, moved the bigger wire directly to the battery stud, taped up the the small wire end with large flange with built in stud for the larger wire and tucked it away. Done. Its been that way for a couple of months with no issues and no auto start stop.
^^^^^

Did the same. I have a 21 Rubicon and with Tazer to turn this idiotic 'feature' off. The Aux battery killed my original battery, so it did the bypass, pulled the fuse and put a Fullriver FT850 in and haven't thought about it since. Everything else is just noise...
 

NortonJTSS

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I think you should slow down and think about it for awhile. Don't do anything drastic. Drive it around for another year or two. It will eventually stop holding a charge and you will get some cool warning messages on you dash. Then you can kick back with a nice hot cup of coco while you spend 2 hours reading forum topics relating to troubleshooting the system. By the time you figure out how to service it you'll feel better and be glad you kept it.
I'm just here for this guy's comments
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