Axle rating

[AwesomeDad]

I’m having trouble finding the rear axle weight rating. I believe the same axle is used in all models. I have a rubicon eco diesel.

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[PuddleJumper]

Its in the Name. Dana M220

M= family or design
220 = weight rating, in this case 22,000lbs
S = single speed gear set
e = electronic locking diff

So a Dana a Dana M190TN would be
M series
19,000lb rating
Two speed gearing
No-spin differential.

Also your rubi would have a M210SE front

M series
21,000lb weight rating
single speed gear set
electronic locking diff

 

[DRMX]

I'm going to guess the OP was looking more for the GAWR, which is on the driver's door jamb sticker. In that case a JTRD would be 3400 lb front and 3750 lb rear. As for Dana's rating, I'm curious in what application would allow use of a 22,000 lb weight rating?

 

[AwesomeDad]

I'm going to guess the OP was looking more for the GAWR, which is on the driver's door jamb sticker. In that case a JTRD would be 3400 lb front and 3750 lb rear. As for Dana's rating, I'm curious in what application would allow use of a 22,000 lb weight rating?

Actually I’m looking for the actual weight rating for the axle. Yes my door jamb says 3750. However like my 1 ton ram has the same axle as the SRW OR DRW it’s the same. So you payload is limited by the tires.

 

[DRMX]

Actually I’m looking for the actual weight rating for the axle. Yes my door jamb says 3750. However like my 1 ton ram has the same axle as the SRW OR DRW it’s the same. So you payload is limited by the tires.

Gotcha. So if it is 22k, what does that help you do beyond the sticker rating?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It's not weight - as that will vary greatly with the vehicle it's under. You can have a Dana 44 220 under a chevy with heavier weight ratings.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Gotcha. So if it is 22k, what does that help you do beyond the sticker rating?

210 and 220 ring gear size......

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I’m having trouble finding the rear axle weight rating. I believe the same axle is used in all models. I have a rubicon eco diesel.

The same axle numbers can be used under trucks, Jeeps, Broncos, etc. - weight rating will vary depending on the exact model and application, tube size, diameter and more.

 

[AwesomeDad]

Gotcha. So if it is 22k, what does that help you do beyond the sticker rating?

Im just looking for realistic numbers for my full up traveling weight with my camper and gear. I know my Jeep won’t explode if it’s a few pounds over, and manufacturers usually are conservative with numbers. But I also want to look at longevity and wear and tear etc. I’ve towed my camper all over no issues and well with in weight limits, as I add items to the bed it will max out.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Im just looking for realistic numbers for my full up traveling weight with my camper and gear. I know my Jeep won’t explode if it’s a few pounds over, and manufacturers usually are conservative with numbers. But I also want to look at longevity and wear and tear etc. I’ve towed my camper all over no issues and well with in weight limits, as I add items to the bed it will max out.

Best bet is to actually go by the numbers on the sticker.
Sounds like you are looking for better numbers to justify more weight??? perhaps?

your "know" that manufacturers are conservative with numbers - and by how much?

What they will handle will vary by the exact axle as made for the auto company buying them.

Don't obsess over it - use those numbers on the sticker. If you "must" carry more weight, you got the wrong vehicle.

 

[chorky]

I think I read somewhere a year or so ago that consumer automotive engineers use a 2.5x safety multiplication. So I would guess then, if that is true, the axle could handle 9,375 pounds before bad things happen. I am pretty much guessing on this.

I dont think you will ever get an engineer to confirm, nor deny, nor offer real engineered numbers - because liabilities. But history shows this might be valid. Look at an old axle of a 90's era F350 with a 6K weight rating and an axle thinner than the JT - during a time when I doubt there was a 2.5x safety factor.

There are a few folks around here pushing 7,500 pounds total weight or more. I think pretty much all of them are using the Alu-Cab or a like item. I would bet a paycheck that 90% of the 'overlanders' here and on YouTube are up to 1,000 pounds over CGAWR. The famous Ozark guy, Matt once weighed his truck and I think it was right at or slightly over GVW, but that was without him or his wife or water/food/gear in the truck. And he has what most consider a 'light weight' build. He also wheels pretty hard and hasn't broken anything yet.

Disclaimer - this is not to justify being overweight. But most are and don't even realize it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I think I read somewhere a year or so ago that consumer automotive engineers use a 2.5x safety multiplication. So I would guess then, if that is true, the axle could handle 9,375 pounds before bad things happen. I am pretty much guessing on this.

I dont think you will ever get an engineer to confirm, nor deny, nor offer real engineered numbers - because liabilities. But history shows this might be valid. Look at an old axle of a 90's era F350 with a 6K weight rating and an axle thinner than the JT - during a time when I doubt there was a 2.5x safety factor.

There are a few folks around here pushing 7,500 pounds total weight or more. I think pretty much all of them are using the Alu-Cab or a like item. I would bet a paycheck that 90% of the 'overlanders' here and on YouTube are up to 1,000 pounds over CGAWR. The famous Ozark guy, Matt once weighed his truck and I think it was right at or slightly over GVW, but that was without him or his wife or water/food/gear in the truck. And he has what most consider a 'light weight' build. He also wheels pretty hard and hasn't broken anything yet.

Disclaimer - this is not to justify being overweight. But most are and don't even realize it.

But is that number true and real, or another " I heard" or from a true axle engineer. It's all guesswork otherwise.
People seem to be on a quest to justify ignoring posted numbers to fit their desires. "Yeah, but they do it" logic is the rule of the Internet.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Im just looking for realistic numbers for my full up traveling weight with my camper and gear. I know my Jeep won’t explode if it’s a few pounds over, and manufacturers usually are conservative with numbers. But I also want to look at longevity and wear and tear etc. I’ve towed my camper all over no issues and well with in weight limits, as I add items to the bed it will max out.

stronger springs and tires imho would increase your capacity. In the AU they get updated stickers when they change stuff out. i.e. heavier rated springs equates to greater payload. but we don't do that here, so its kinda a legal issue if you go over sticker, even if you a 1 ton swap.

 

[chorky]

But is that number true and real, or another " I heard" or from a true axle engineer. It's all guesswork otherwise.
People seem to be on a quest to justify ignoring posted numbers to fit their desires. "Yeah, but they do it" logic is the rule of the Internet.

I'm trying to remember where I read that. I thought it was from an automotive engineer, but I can't honestly remember the source.

I think the only justification someone needs in going overweight is asking themselves how much they are willing to risk. I mean look at all the summer recreation trucks going down the highway hauling these insanely massive toy haulers, or the 90's era ford expedition hauling a 32' travel trailer riding on bump stops... Vehicles are entirely too easy to overload. I'm not saying it is or isn't a good idea, but it's reality. At least around my area, all summer long I see vehicle after vehicle that is WAY overloaded. Or even that Hyundai with 8 people crammed in it like a clown car.

Out JT's are rediciously easy to overload. Take a standard Rubicon, pack it with a husband, wife, kid and/or another kid or dog, basic recovery gear, winch, truck canopy, and the typical 90's era camping gear (standard tent, cooler, water jug, toys, maybe a couple bicycles, etc.) and they are going to be overloaded by a couple hundred pounds easy. Now look at all these overlander builds. Those driving a Toyota are in the same boat. Then turn your head and look at a F350 with a big camper, and same family set up. Even they are overloaded most likely. It's kind comical actually, how light weight vehicles are built. I think Jeep and others know this. I have not looked at axle ratings other than my TJ, JT, and old F350, but I will say never before have I seen an axle rating that is almost a thousand pounds over the legal sticker rating (for dot classification)

 

[Volt0]

To the point about the door stickers, you also have to consider the vehicle as a whole, including breaks, steering, stability, tire mods, and more. Even the weight distribution matters. If, for example, you load the back end with wood, so much that it looks like the Carolina squat, chances are that your ability to steer will be compromised ( same is true for pulling a trailer with a tongue weight that’s too heavy ). Get in an accident and hurt someone while over-spec, and liability becomes even more on you.

for a trailer queen rig, do whatever you want. On the roads however, I’m not sure that anyone would advise looking at a single component ( axles ) out of context ( the entire rig/trailer ).

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