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Best model for snow.

jalbrecht55

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Completely agree with the points on m/t for winter driving. There are times when trying to accelerate an auto will downshift out from under you, break the tires loose and cause all kinds of problems. I grew up driving both (in AK) and to this day have a deep seated distrust for autos in winter conditions.

First time it happened to me I was driving on a dry bare pavement road in 2wd. I entered a shaded and slightly uphill S turn (with a nice patch of ice in the shadow), and even though I was just easing on the throttle to maintain speed it dropped a gear and that was enough that it kicked out the tail and put me in a very not fun drift on a tight two lane road.

This example shows another place where a full time or auto mode would be very nice to have. Even in the snow belt there are often weeks or sometimes months in the winter where you don’t have snow on the road so you gotta run 2wd but you still have those treacherous corners lurking in the shadows.

Rear limited slip can help at times, say getting up a driveway, but also makes it easier to cause both tires to spin, which can put you into a drift. Depends a lot on how tight the limited skip diff is. Seems like most of the OEM ones are benign enough that it doesn’t cause a problem.
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Steppenwolf

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Tirerack.com has ratings for just about every tire out there. I have my gladiator overland ordered and I think it will come with the Bridgestone dueler ht, which has horrid snow ratings.
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/ratings-review.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Dueler+H/T+D684+II&fromTireDetail=true

I plan to swap to the sumitomo encounter or pirelli scorpion plus.
That or find a set of rubicon take-offs as the fallen wild peak seem to have good snow ratings.
Couldn't find it, but how are the Rubi's Falken WildPeak ATs rated for snow, ice, etc.?

We're already planning a trip into the U.P. next fall (late Nov).
 

Up venture

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Snow covered road driving wouldnt benefit from lockers available on the Rubicon?
To my knowledge the lockers are only available in 4lo. So unless you are chewing you're way down a camp trail that hasn't been plowed with 2' of snow it won't make much of a difference. Running 4hi on snow covered roads is typical. My experience is running 4hi and short shift into higher gears when rolling. This will limit the amount of excess torque and reduce possible wheel spin. Once rolling keep it moving.
 

Up venture

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Couldn't find it, but how are the Rubi's Falken WildPeak ATs rated for snow, ice, etc.?

We're already planning a trip into the U.P. next fall (late Nov).

I've read the Falkens are snow rated. I've been bombing around in the Dueler ATs without a problem. You're going to be just fine:like:
 

Puttyandnapalm

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TrailHiker

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The JT/JL’s new 8-Speed Auto, lets you manually shift it the best gear for specific situations, like snow/icy or sandy driving conditions. As for which model of the JT is best, unless you are plowing through deep snow, where the Rubi extra clearance and larger tires might help, I think all three models are equally excellent for adverse weather driving. Any differences would be minor, and more of a personal preference.
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ShadowsPapa

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Completely agree with the points on m/t for winter driving. There are times when trying to accelerate an auto will downshift out from under you, break the tires loose and cause all kinds of problems. I grew up driving both (in AK) and to this day have a deep seated distrust for autos in winter conditions.


Rear limited slip can help at times, say getting up a driveway, but also makes it easier to cause both tires to spin, which can put you into a drift. Depends a lot on how tight the limited skip diff is. Seems like most of the OEM ones are benign enough that it doesn’t cause a problem.
Thank you. My point exactly.
Driving since age 14, license at 16, am now 62, every job I have had saw me commuting on rural roads and highways. I've experienced that slide.
In the TSMs (technical service manuals) there are "break-away" torque specs - ways to test whether or not the differential is working correctly.
The older ones used plates similar to a motorcycle clutch or an automatic transmission clutch pack, some of the flats were wave or cone shaped (depending on make) and the tension on the carrier side gears by one axle having a different speed than the other applied pressure to the plates.
Some had cones,
then there were those that locked, like the kits I put in my boss's wrecker differentials. (he commented on the slide possibilities but wanted them for snow and such)
I've had "OEM" ones cause slides - in fact, I totaled a nearly new AMX on a slippery road when someone pulled out in front of me and the back end went totally sideways. My Chevy gripped so well the tires squealed on tight turns - that indicates to me that on ice they'd absolutely be locked since they were that tight on dry pavement. On slick roads and ice there's not enough grip to break one of the axles free to grip. They will be MORE likely to lock together on a slick road than not. Even new/OEM types. If they didn't, then they aren't working correctly.

It's a problem to be aware of.
 

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The JT/JL’s new 8-Speed Auto, lets you manually shift it the best gear for specific situations, like snow/icy or sandy driving conditions. As for which model of the JT is best, unless you are plowing through deep snow, where the Rubi extra clearance and larger tires might help, I think all three models are equally excellent for adverse weather driving. Any differences would be minor, and more of a personal preference.
Cheers
Absolutely agree - however the comment about a stick, being able to push the clutch and totally disengage any engine braking, etc. is a valid point. With an automatic, you have to pop it into neutral. With a stick you push the clutch.
I've had to shove automatics into neutral to compensate more than once where with my stick vehicles, I simply push in the clutch. So, if you are often in snow and slippery situations, a stick may be preferred. Shifting an automatic still leaves the engine in control enough to either break the wheels loose due to it wanting to accelerate them, or engine braking effect locking the rear wheels. Go to neutral the wheels can grab again.
As for the "models" or levels - put on the appropriate tires and they are mostly the same otherwise.
They all sit higher than my Silverado did and it was ok in snow. These have to be as good or better (except they are only part-time, bummer)
 

TrailHiker

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Yes, using the clutch is quicker, good point.
Cheers
 

Hurley82

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I’ve got a Rubicon 6 speed with the stock 33” mud terrains. Here in Colorado we recently had a storm that dumped 22”. I went out when roads were at their worst. Even in 2 wheel it was almost unstoppable. On some deserted roads I purposefully tried to spin it or force it to lose control. The traction control system just does a phenomenal job. With 4 wheel drive it didn’t matter what drifts I hit, it just keeps going.


More recently we had heavy morning fog with freezing temps. As I entered a round-about I was unaware of how slick it was. The the rear end just slightly stepped out and the vehicle shut down the slide just enough to keep me moving in the right direction.
 

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jalbrecht55

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Have another story related to the M/T and being able to push in the clutch to maintain control. I’m driving along on a dark cold night in a new to me pickup with an auto trans. When I started the road was just wet but I drove into some kind of ice storm and see a 4Runner on its roof and three cars in the ditch and I can feel the steering get kind of numb and I think “oh crap..”.

Instinctively I want to push in the clutch and coast down but I can’t, and didn’t think to shove it in neutral. I just eased up on the throttle slowly but that was too much and I felt the rear end start to come around. I countersteered attempting to keep it straight to no avail as I drifted towards the edge of the road. The front tires started to catch some of the snow On the edge of the road and tossed me into a full on spin. Eventually I came to the stop in the median pointed backwards. All was fine but thinking about it still gives me the heeby jeebies.
 

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I’ve got a Rubicon 6 speed with the stock 33” mud terrains. Here in Colorado we recently had a storm that dumped 22”. I went out when roads were at their worst. Even in 2 wheel it was almost unstoppable. On some deserted roads I purposefully tried to spin it or force it to lose control. The traction control system just does a phenomenal job. With 4 wheel drive it didn’t matter what drifts I hit, it just keeps going.


More recently we had heavy morning fog with freezing temps. As I entered a round-about I was unaware of how slick it was. The the rear end just slightly stepped out and the vehicle shut down the slide just enough to keep me moving in the right direction.
You just made me feel really good about choosing a JT as my truck. It's an automatic, but then I needed towing more than not.
Now to find some take-offs wheels and tires for my Overland to make it even better.
 

PyrPatriot

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I’ve got a Rubicon 6 speed with the stock 33” mud terrains. Here in Colorado we recently had a storm that dumped 22”. I went out when roads were at their worst. Even in 2 wheel it was almost unstoppable. On some deserted roads I purposefully tried to spin it or force it to lose control. The traction control system just does a phenomenal job. With 4 wheel drive it didn’t matter what drifts I hit, it just keeps going.


More recently we had heavy morning fog with freezing temps. As I entered a round-about I was unaware of how slick it was. The the rear end just slightly stepped out and the vehicle shut down the slide just enough to keep me moving in the right direction.
I just got some 32” falken m/t tires. Your post gives me reassurance
 

RacerX00

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Oh oh I want to preach about tires.

There are almost no reasons not to swap out tires for the winter if you're in a place with a lot of winter weather. Think about it this way, your tires have a lifespan that's directly related to wear so, you're going to buy those tires eventually anyways.

It's not completely even like this but it's close enough that I can just make this point:

20k mile lifespan on all seasons = 2 years @ 10,000 miles / yr = Replacing tires every two years

20k miles on all seasons, 20k miles on snow tires = Replacing tires every four years

What you pay for to have the ability to swap tires are the rims. Unless you need 30' of clearance in the winter you can usually make these your cheap rims and smaller tires (save money). With smaller winter wheels you usually wind up saving money on tires overall on the lifespan of a vehicle.
 

Wyofuy069

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Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but who here has used the Hakkapeliitta lt3 studded on their Gladiators? Just interested in feedback including on road tire pressure settings.
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