Before seeing your comment I did a Google search to see if there was a bearing version out yet. I found another test of efficiency and sure enough, I was wrong.
You are exactly right. I use the silver one you have pictured. No sharp cut points anywhere. That’s also why the factor55 ring is so expensive, plus it has little fingers on the cable side that helps to retain the winch cable. Too expensive for me though.You'd be surprised at the places where aluminum has been used as a bearing surface, and nylon has been used under real stress. Put nylon or similar through smoothed aluminum it will have some friction losses, but minimal heat due to the slow speed and short duration of the pull.
One thing to reduce friction and make the shackle last longer would be to watch the radius you put the shackle to, and the support it's given in the snatch ring - comparing the two below, I'd not be very interested in one like the red one, look at the flat. Not good. Gentle radius even curve in the middle like the other is best.
Not a good shape in the middle- hard on the soft shackle - there will be a lot more pressure on the two sides of the middle hole, it will be concentrated there -
Much better - gentle continuous radius - pressure spread over entire curve-
did you see gear americas new snatch ring?
Another way to look at it is that a recovery requires a certain amount of force to accomplish. (Your tables are a very good reference) and that force can be reduced and redirected using blocks and other fixed attachment points (Trees, rocks, other vehicles, etc.)Here is my 0.02, I have used it a few times and it has worked great for me. Keep in mind your winching power: example mine is a 12k winch, if I use a snatch block and run strait back I now have 24k pulling power.
You need to have gear i.e. snatch blocks, straps, shackles, anchor points, that can handle the load you will exert.
Looks like an amazing day. I smile every time I put power to the winch solenoid. But I’m a tool guy. You make me want to upgrade my rock sliders so they could be used for side pulls. Which ones are they?First, steel winch cable or synthetic? With steel, you need to stick to the bearing based snatch blocks.
If you are getting serious, it’s generally best to have both kinds (bearing and soft shackle based) of snatch blocks in your vehicle. There are lots of rigging setups that require multiple, and snatch blocks do wonders when your unable to do a straight pull. Our trucks are super capable, so when I’m stuck, it’s usually not a straight pull kinda situation. I carry 3 when on the trail now: 1 bearing (warn epic) and 2 soft (factor 55).
All the options suggested here are good, and none will leave you stuck for long. The more important question is, do you know how to use them?
Example multi snatch block pull after doing a buggy line and finding the lip too sharp. Needed to lift the rear of the vehicle to get it off the LCA skids, and the snatch blocks up front to give the JK more pulling power since mine was being helped by gravity.
IKR, It’s fun finding the limits of the truck
Do they hide the pinch welds cosmetically? I’ll be ok with clearance when the 37’s go on with the lift, if the suspension parts ever make it past the supply chain issues.IKR, It’s fun finding the limits of the truck
Shrockworks. They are super well built and I have beat the heck out of them. I wish they tucked up a little tighter, but pinch seams are the limiting factor.
