ChrisNLA
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
So after 25K miles I had fluid pouring out of the driver front shock, and seeping / oozing out of the other three. The driver front had also begun to make audible noises. All were 'controlling' the ride and had not completely devolved to bouncing, etc. - but I doubt it would have been far away.
My truck is completely stock suspension wise outside of Teraflex 1.5" spacer kit up front and Apex disconnects.
The front Bilsteins are slightly longer that stock which is perfect for the added lift. I forgot to compare the rears, but I imagine it's the same or even less difference.
Fronts: https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/shocks/33-304847-bilstein-b8-5100-shock-absorber-front-1-5in-lift
Rears: https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/shocks/33-304854-bilstein-5100-series-shock-rear-0-1in-lift
The short of it / summary is:
The Bilstein 5100 to me, is very similar to the factory Max Tow shocks. It feels as if the truck rides like the OEM shocks did new, with a touch more firmness. If you were coming from a Rubicon or something else with wallowing suspension - I imagine this would be a big, big difference for you. If you are coming from a Sport, or a Sport Max Tow - this is going to be more subtle. I don't think that's a bad thing. The 5100's gave me exactly what I wanted - suspension that rode similar to the way my truck did new. The way this truck rides / carries weight / etc. is one of the reasons I custom ordered it, so I'm glad I landed back where I was / slightly improved.
Install notes: You better not have little bitch arms like I do or you're gonna just about blow your ass out trying to compress these while frantically trying to pop a bolt in before it slips out of you hand. Bilstein does not package them collapsed so have fun. I recommend lowering the axle on a jack to get it in OR standing over the shock and compressing it down with both hands and using a couple big ass zip ties to hold it down, then put one end in, cut the tie wrap, and frantically try to jam the other bolt in while the shock extends. I also used tin snips to trim all the inner fender liners so I could easily access the upper bolts.
Pics:
Driver front along side the new shock - oil obviously running down the sides. New one installed.
Notice you can see the upper bolt. I used some tin snips to cut the plastic so I didn't have to fight the inner fender.
Passenger side front. Old one just beginning to weep oil. This was probably the best shock on the truck.
Driver rear, before and after of when I cut the fender liner to access the upper bolt. Ignore the fluid on the frame rail, that's water from the car wash.
The Bilstein band of NOTHINGNESS. My truck is at ride height and we ain't close. I cut this worthless band and the shock extended like another inch
Get you some big ass 24" zip ties from Hobo Freight and tie that shock down you got a chance of getting it in.
Leaky driver rear shock.
Leaky passenger rear shock.
Enjoy your new shiny bits.
Each shock comes with a STICKER. So put it on your tool box, your truck, whatever.
I chose truck. Why not. I can always scrape it later when my back window becomes a tacky decaled mess.
My truck is completely stock suspension wise outside of Teraflex 1.5" spacer kit up front and Apex disconnects.
The front Bilsteins are slightly longer that stock which is perfect for the added lift. I forgot to compare the rears, but I imagine it's the same or even less difference.
Fronts: https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/shocks/33-304847-bilstein-b8-5100-shock-absorber-front-1-5in-lift
Rears: https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/shocks/33-304854-bilstein-5100-series-shock-rear-0-1in-lift
The short of it / summary is:
The Bilstein 5100 to me, is very similar to the factory Max Tow shocks. It feels as if the truck rides like the OEM shocks did new, with a touch more firmness. If you were coming from a Rubicon or something else with wallowing suspension - I imagine this would be a big, big difference for you. If you are coming from a Sport, or a Sport Max Tow - this is going to be more subtle. I don't think that's a bad thing. The 5100's gave me exactly what I wanted - suspension that rode similar to the way my truck did new. The way this truck rides / carries weight / etc. is one of the reasons I custom ordered it, so I'm glad I landed back where I was / slightly improved.
Install notes: You better not have little bitch arms like I do or you're gonna just about blow your ass out trying to compress these while frantically trying to pop a bolt in before it slips out of you hand. Bilstein does not package them collapsed so have fun. I recommend lowering the axle on a jack to get it in OR standing over the shock and compressing it down with both hands and using a couple big ass zip ties to hold it down, then put one end in, cut the tie wrap, and frantically try to jam the other bolt in while the shock extends. I also used tin snips to trim all the inner fender liners so I could easily access the upper bolts.
Pics:
Driver front along side the new shock - oil obviously running down the sides. New one installed.
Notice you can see the upper bolt. I used some tin snips to cut the plastic so I didn't have to fight the inner fender.
Passenger side front. Old one just beginning to weep oil. This was probably the best shock on the truck.
Driver rear, before and after of when I cut the fender liner to access the upper bolt. Ignore the fluid on the frame rail, that's water from the car wash.
The Bilstein band of NOTHINGNESS. My truck is at ride height and we ain't close. I cut this worthless band and the shock extended like another inch
Get you some big ass 24" zip ties from Hobo Freight and tie that shock down you got a chance of getting it in.
Leaky driver rear shock.
Leaky passenger rear shock.
Enjoy your new shiny bits.
Each shock comes with a STICKER. So put it on your tool box, your truck, whatever.
I chose truck. Why not. I can always scrape it later when my back window becomes a tacky decaled mess.
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