Broken Frame

[Zachanadandy]

I don't think you can really say that........



So a solution for the bed only, taking that part of the frame into account makes sense. Typing cab to bed to frame wouldn't work well.

Solution only for the bed being tied solidly to the frame makes sense.

Like motor plates and other solid engine mounts there's a point where the use deviates enough from standard vehicle builds that you just throw NVH isolation out the window. I'd say mounting passengers in the bed well above the cab qualifies as one of those cases. At that point the safety of the passengers should be the only priority and in my opinion the entire cage should be tied into the frame. Even if you were trying to isolate the cab I'd run the front down bars through oversized holes in the cab and straight to the frame as you can't mix and match hard mounted and isolated mounts with any success. And there's no way the frame bends where it did if there's a cage tied in front of and behind the bend. Sure if you drove it off a cliff or hit a concrete wall at freeway speed, but not in this application. As you can see in the photos the "cage" didn't bend and the only way that happens is if it wasn't anchored on both sides of the bend.

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[Maximus Gladius]

Well, that does explain a lot.

It’s true. The gladiator concept goes waaaaay back.

 

[rharr]

I like the Red or Dead kit over the Shift kit because of capturing more frame area, but bed and possibly fuel/def tank removal looks to be required......I think both would handle this issue.

I just stopped by there shop Monday and picked up a kit. Nice clean cut gusset plates with no slag you have to clean off.

Bobby is the one in charge and was a real nice down to earth guy who is genuinely interested in off road sports (jeeps, yotas, dirt bikes, ect...) and making good products.

Now i just need to convince my buddy to fit me into his shop over the weekend to get them installed.

There is one long gusset that goes on the outer frame rail, from cab to tail. There is a smaller gusset that covers in the inner frame rail crumple zone by the spring perch and one plate that goes on the bottom of the frame rail.

Bed removal would make the work much easier.

 

[SoK66]

Well, if anyone's still interested in the original issue I posted, we had the Gladiator's frame straightened and reinforced at the point where it broke. We did some driver training re: crawling vs jumping Moab ledges, crawling water crossings, etc. We''re also adding some Metalcloak bump stops on all of them to better absorb wheel travel at the limits. We will do an off season review of the suspensions and other aspects of the equipment.

Thanks to all who offered their insights, hope to see some of you at EJS, which starts TOMORROW!

 

[darkhorse13]

Well, if anyone's still interested in the original issue I posted, we had the Gladiator's frame straightened and reinforced at the point where it broke. We did some driver training re: crawling vs jumping Moab ledges, crawling water crossings, etc. We''re also adding some Metalcloak bump stops on all of them to better absorb wheel travel at the limits. We will do an off season review of the suspensions and other aspects of the equipment.

Thanks to all who offered their insights, hope to see some of you at EJS, which starts TOMORROW!

Glad to hear it's fixed up. If I can weigh in, I would highly recommend sumo springs bump stops over metal cloak. The sumo springs are softer at absorbing shock.

 

[SoK66]

Glad to hear it's fixed up. If I can weigh in, I would highly recommend sumo springs bump stops over metal cloak. The sumo springs are softer at absorbing shock.

Ok, thanks I'll check them out!

 

[darkhorse13]

Hey folks,
I am going to be posting up my Shift frame bridges for sale shortly but I wanted to give the peeps here a heads up as well. I won't be getting around to install these this year and want to save someone $100.

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